Wiz33

Logically, ti should be a low frequency singal.

Damon44

The tech who came to my home hooked the sub to feed coming to oem sub and sub woofer power of mono amp 600 watt amp directly from battery over spare tire.
755 watts will not power after market sub with any respect. Tapping into dsp is not the same as setting up your own crossovers.
Preout will feed signal to stock sub and after market sub just fine so low freq feed is whatever comes to oem sub. Set crossover on aftermarket sub to 80-120 Hz should cover but you will need Audi spec to know exact or meter. I set gain to 60% which allows me to use Mimi to control both subs
Hope this helps.
I ended up with Kenwood Excelon 600/1 and Kicker compR 10" with 2ohm sub dual voice coil which is 2ohm x2 .

Yoshimura

Why there are 4 wires? I would have expected 2...

MH62

Looks like a dual coil sub, 2 terminals per coil. It's no better than single coil, just different and offers more wiring flexibility to match amp. The 2 coils can be wired in series or parallel to better match the amp.

MrBlahBlah

So just a few follow up questions....I haven't taken delivery yet but thinking I'd really like to do this setup. Since I'm leasing, seems like an easy thing to undo, and something I could reuse in the next vehicle. And although I've never done anything like this myself and don't really understand audio installation, it does seem easy enough that I could attempt this as a DIY project. So apologies in advance for the noob questions!

- I see you tapped into the 4 wires - how did you know which wire to run to which input onto the sub? How do you know what the colors represent?

- I guess the red cable is the power cable which is running to to the positive terminal of the battery.

- I see a fourth black cable...is that the ground? Where did you run that to exactly?

- Finally, once you have it wired up, what kind of settings did you need to calibrate on the box itself?

I would love idiot proof guide, but that may be asking too much

Yoshimura

I would let Stankia responds to you but meanwhile, here's the sub manual.

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...6/13693334.PDF

MrBlahBlah

Thanks Yoshimura, the manual was mega helpful. I've narrowed my questions and now they are a bit more specific:

- I still have the same quesiton about the four wires. It seems as though Ch1 is orange and yellow, and Ch2 is Black and Green, but within each channel, how do you know polarity, i.e. which is + and which is - ?

- The manual says you should introduce a fuse on the power cable: is this something you did? Hard to tell from the photos

- Which Turn On mode did you use? DC or Signal?

- Does the box really not fall over when throwing the car around, even though the velcro is only on the bottom? Did you use Velcro with adhesive on one side and apply the strips to both the box and the trunk, or one strip with the "rough" part of the velcro on both sides?

- I was going to ask about cables, but looks like you can use the following combination of products for wires, taps and connectors:
Taps: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP6....html?tp=61469
Wire Connectors: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP5...s.html?tp=2610
Amp Wiring Kit: XD-ACS30 - Car Audio - Power Connections - Amplifier Connection Kits - JL Audio

Thanks for the help!

MrBlahBlah

Sorry for the double post, but a quick update.

While I can't answer the first question directly above (determining the polarity of the OEM sub wires so you can wire up your amp/sub properly), I have learned HOW to answer the question.

First step is to disassemble the OEM sub from the housing like in Quattrings's photo above so you can see the exposed wire ends soldered onto the speaker itself. Then, using a multimeter (i.e. voltmeter, $15 on amazon), you use the red and black probes to make contact with each pair of wires (the orange and yellow, and then separately, the black and green). If you get a positive reading on the multimeter, the wire touching the red probe is the positive and the wire touching the black probe is negative. If you don't want to disassemble the OEM sub from the housing, I'm guessing you can also just tap into all four wires, and test those tapped lines. You can check out this YouTube video for a quick demo:
Since I haven't taken delivery of my car yet I can't test this out, but if someone is interested/installing they can do so and hopefully let everyone know

Learning about this has been a fun learning experience so far, and thanks all for sharing photos and know-how.

MrPlow

I don't think that's going to work. That video is determining which lead of a DC power supply is positive/negative, but a speaker isn't a power supply (unless it has the amplifier integrated into the circuit, then it's more complicated) - a speaker is effectively a resistor (not really, but you can think of it like that) - it's passive, so measuring it's voltage shouldn't show anything (if you did what that guy in the video is doing, it would read 0.0V regardless of how you place the probes). If the wires nor terminals are identified, then the only way I know of to definitely test for which is positive or negative is to place a known DC voltage on the speaker and watch which way the speaker moves (in or out), like done in this video (though only do this if you're sure the speaker is disconnected from the amplifier):

MrBlahBlah