The G Man

Try braking aggressively and immediately spray down your rotor, it will warp.

SCarGuy

again, no, it won't

you drive your car in the rain right? you can hard brake in the rain...you can hard brake through a puddle that completely submerges the rotor. The disk will not warp

I've been involved in racing for the last ~23 years, have used everything from conventional rotors, every conceivable compound pad from the mildest ceramics to metal based, full carbon braking systems - you are not warping anything

Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part One: Rotors Don't Warp | Hendon Publishing

Warped' Rotors Myth - Correctly Service Brakes: Runout, Disc Thickness

https://www.autoblog.com/2015/11/30/...e-rotors-warp/

Warped Brake Rotors?The Facts ? Moss Motoring

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6444

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-...d-brake-rotors
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

Nikon1

SCarGuy

lots of good info in those articles, and can help people next time they experience something similar. No sense spending money on a repair, whether it's from a dealer or an indy shop, if one isn't necessarily needed.

JBDinTX

SCarGuy

using engine braking, especially on those mountain back roads, where you have significant elevation changes can make a huge difference in brake life. I've done similar things on various cars over the years, some conventional auto with paddles (tipronics), and some with dual clutches. Never had any transmission issues as a result fwiw, across many brands

The G Man

I guess it is just semantics, from your links,"brake rotors do not warp from heat, they just wear unevenly"=left.

SCarGuy

it's definitely not semantics though, if you (and lots of people think this way) think that by putting cold water on a "hot" rotor, it's going to change shape - it can't, and won't

but by not once in a while actually getting on the brakes on most of these types of vehicles, you end up with deposits on the disks, and those deposits build high spots, and then you get the judder sensation. Bedding them back in solves it more times than not.

For some, switching to ceramic pads can be good, if they aren't heavy on the brakes from time to time. Ceramics have nowhere near the "mu" or the bite (feel), that other compounds do, but, they have very low dust, tend to be extremely quiet, and don't leave hese types of deposits with lighter use. But, they also can't take heat all that well, so for those who favor hard back road use, or do lots of heavier braking from higher speeds, they may quickly find the ceramics just aren't up to the task. All depends on the total blend of the compound, etc. Every brand can provide data on their particular pad compound as far as mu, temp range, etc.

The G Man

Beside brake pad deposits, another problem is uneven rotor wear.

SCarGuy

this is another reason it's crucial to properly square the disk up with the hub, and, use a torque wrench, with the wheel on the ground and to ensure things like wheel bearings are within spec, etc