BreedsAs

So I just recently carried out the process of changing the spark plugs on my 2018 Audi S5 Sportback.
The Audi maintenance schedule recommends doing so at 40k miles or 6 years since it was last done/built. I currently only have 32k miles, but did mine early as I will be running a custom Stage 3 ECU tune soon and want everything ready to do so just in case.

Anyways, I have compiled some very helpful tips those who will be doing it themselves should need. I just had surgery so I don't have the energy to make a complete write up in how to do it, but I'll answer questions as they arise.

Also, just to let some know, 3.0T engine in the B9 Audi S4 and S5, is also in the; Gen 1 Q8, C8 A7 and A6, and B9 SQ5. So the steps for those will be the same as below.

A note on Anti-seize:
Audi and NGK recommend NOT using anti-seize on the threads of these specific spark plugs when installing them on the 3.0T. The Audi bought plugs (rebranded NGK spark plugs) have a special coating on the threads that is enough to prevent seizing if changed at the proper intervals. The use of anti-seize can also lead to over torqued plugs.

Tips:
1. First step is to get the correct spark plugs. As of June 1, 2020, there are not any aftermarket options for spark plugs on this platform. That means you must source your six (6) replacement plugs from Audi direct.

2. The Audi part number as of this date for the spark plugs is 06M-905-606-F. The part number may be superceded (changed) in the future. Six spark plugs will be needed for the job of course.

3. Also needed for the job is regular everyday dielectric spark plug grease for the ignition coil boots.

4. The most important part of this thread is this tip!
You will need a quality VERY SLIM 14mm, 12 point (double hex) deep spark plug socket.
I put very slim because 99% of the 14mm sockets out there will not work. I tried at least 5 before I landed on the one I used on Amazon.
​​​​​​To save you time and frustration, you will need a socket whose circular width is no more than 17.75mm. Anything thicker will not work because it'll bottom out before you get to the plug base.
I personally used the Ares 14mm Thin Wall Swivel Spark Plug Socket from Amazon.

5. Getting to the spark plugs on the passenger side of the 3.0T will require removal of the air intake inlet/hose.
The drivers side will require removal of the PCV hose. You will need to pull the engine cover off before all I'd this BTW. The heat shield under it can stay in place. See pictures below.

6. You will also need to unclip the wire harness plastic holders on both sides of the engine that obscure the ignition coils. Passenger side takes a gentle, even pull upwards with your fingers on each end of the harness holders to release two push clips.
Drivers side has a clip that needs to be depressed on the right side bottom of the holder. It is near the last spark plug closest to the firewall. Once depressed, just slide upwards while slowly popping off the left side push clip.

7. Next, you will need to do gentle maneuvering of the plastic sure harness holders to get to each ignition coil. If you have any resistance, find the harness causing it and unclip it from where it is anchored, or find the plug connector holding it and remove the connector carefully to not damage it. Also, remember to plug it back when you're done.

8. Unplugging the clips to the ignition coils is easy. I used a pick to slide the red connector lock back, then a flathead to gently push each connector rearwards to unplug it from the ignition coil.

9. Next you will need a TORX 30 bit to remove the six ignition coil screws. Then a coil puller, or gentle prying,t actually remove each ignition coil pack.

10. Insert the special 14mm socket and remove all six spark plugs.

Then do the whole process in reverse and you're good to go!

Extra:
I tried to find replacement upgraded ignition coils for this platform. Often, "red top" coils are used to replace the OE factory black ones, claiming better performance.
The OEM parts number for the ignition coils for our 3.0T is 06H905110G. It has many other very similar part numbers that eventually are the exact same part. Some are even red, but have the same part number as ours.
So currently, there are not any upgraded coils available, except maybe from MSD and I don't know if their Blaster series offering is considered an "upgrade."

I am assuming in the future the just released RS7/RS6/RSQ8 may have ignition coils that are a real upgrade from ours, and compatible.



Pictures:

Required 14mm Slim 12 point deep socket.


OE ignition coils.


New and old Audi spark plugs. They are repackaged, pre-gapped NGK spark plugs.


Picks and dielectric grease.


OEM packaging of spark plugs.


Passenger side spark plugs area with ignition coils removed. Notice the air intake inlet hose/pipe is removed to allow access.
Also, you will see where I disconnected the PCV hose from the passenger side and folded it/swiveled it over out of the way of the driver side plugs.


Driver side area with coils out.

Nikon1

@BreedsAs — As always, a great write-up. Hopefully your surgery was successful and Thank you.

— John

willitrue

Wow, thank you for your very useful post, man!

synergize

Excellent post and corresponding pictures will definitely help me when I battle with the plugs one day. Never seen a spark-plug with such a long thread, wondering what the reason is?

turbo510

Good question for a spark plug expert. Help heat transfer?

BreedsAs

I too also noticed how long they were. Felt like it took forever to screw them out because of that.

Straight from the NGK site, here's what it says about the longer threads:
"Extending the length of spark plug thread helps to improve the cooling efficiency of the cylinder head. There is a possibility that there will be an increase in the number of engines using long-reach spark plugs in the future. An "L" before the part number indicates a long-reach spark plug."

Of course our cars do not have the "L" before the party number and/or any identifiable NGK assigned part number on the plug/packaging. I'm sure they are the long reach plugs though.
​​​​​

RoB9

I believe Holley makes the APR ignition coils that are for our cars.

BreedsAs

They sure do. They also make the MSD ones.
That said m, there currently isn't a "real upgrade" for our ignition coils.
I am pretty sure the new Audi 4.0L TT V8 in the new RS6/7 and RSQ8 will have compatible upgraded coils that aren't just red.
Our B9 S5s and RS5s have black ignition coils, but they are internally the same as the often sought after red tops.

m444

Holley acquired MSD some time ago

Sentinel Capital Partners owns Holley, including APR & MSD

https://www.sentinelpartners.com/int...sp?pageID=1151

https://www.holley.com/brands/

morris39

Quote "Extra:
I tried to find replacement upgraded ignition coils for this platform. Often, "red top" coils are used to replace the OE factory black ones, claiming better performance."
Curious what an upgraded coil actually means. Maybe someone can educate. My simple understanding is that coil packs have no moving parts and are designed to cause an arc between the spark plug terminals such that it will bridge those terminals and ignite the fuel mixture under the design engine conditions. Once the voltage is enough to reliably jump the gap is no further advantage to raising the discharge voltage. So is the Audi coil pack design functionally deficient if upgrades are considered necessary? Or is the coil exterior considered inadequate against damage? What exactly wears out if durability is the problem? I am not convinced by talk of upgrades.