2004 ar alignment specs
06-21-2007, 05:59 AM
#21
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Not aimed in particular just noticing a little change in attitude and most assuredly want to keep it
all civil, especially for those who are giving out great advice that many of us can't get locally.
02-01-2011, 01:49 PM
#22
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Holes drilled where the control arms mount. When you lower the car the toe and camber change. Toe is adjustable , camber is not. So what should it be when you lower the car?? Anyone, Bueller, Bueller??. Maybe setting it at level 2 specs at L1 might do it ,but Ackerman and scrub will not be correct due to the difference in the radius at that level. As with any car the suspension is only correct where the factory engineers it. Now if you want the Euro road race look spend $200000 on a car and reengineer the whole thing. What, you don't like 500 mile to a set of tires hmmm. With my own experience, tire life is more than doubled when the car rides at the correct height. I went from 12-14000 miles a set of tires on level one, to 25000, when recalibrated Level 2 to 1, and effectively raising the car .75 inch. The a/r was designed to ride at level 2 most of the time. Level 1 is for high speed where body lift reduces some of the load, and theoreticly you're not hacking at the switchbacks. Now I know I'll be inundated with the , Oh that's not right,mine does this, the guy down the road says that, my BMW was, My 67 Chevell handled great crowd. I do this for a living, I have owned more allroads than any of you, I have fixed and modded more of them than most "tuners" and early on the local dealer would ask for assistance occasionaly. I have owned, raced and crewed all kinds of cars. YMMV, It's my $.02
Only considering the vehicle moving in a straight line, would toe be affected (toe curve) by ride height in the AR's geometry? In other words, as the car moves between levels is the actual toe changing?
Secondly, I can understand Ackerman, SAI, and scrub. In respect to those who align and drive at a lower height are these factors aggravating tire wear, or does the fact the car was aligned at said height give enough leeway in the factory design to account for these factors?
Any info is appreciated.
I just aligned my car with -10mm in the front in L2 mode, which is where I tend to drive. I know the general consensus here is the geometry is out of whack but I'm wondering if that's more of a myth than reality caused by those who align at L2 and drive at L1...?
thx
03-14-2011, 12:24 PM
#24
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just relating to my observations:
I read a massive article on alignments that addressed Ackerman angles. It was more geared toward the race crowd but my impression was that it can mostly affect cornering at low speeds or super high speeds. In reality, a mild change in ride height shouldn't affect it to the extent where toe would be out drastically enough to cause any major concern on a 4200lb wagon. I suppose if you tracked the car enough you could make some alignment adjustments to maximize handling ability where it could gain you some stability and lessen tire wear. I think there are too many other factors at play like bushing deflection on these aging cars to worry much about this.
I read a massive article on alignments that addressed Ackerman angles. It was more geared toward the race crowd but my impression was that it can mostly affect cornering at low speeds or super high speeds. In reality, a mild change in ride height shouldn't affect it to the extent where toe would be out drastically enough to cause any major concern on a 4200lb wagon. I suppose if you tracked the car enough you could make some alignment adjustments to maximize handling ability where it could gain you some stability and lessen tire wear. I think there are too many other factors at play like bushing deflection on these aging cars to worry much about this.
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