Help: How to torque rear sway bar end link nuts ?
#1
Help: How to torque rear sway bar end link nuts ?
In the middle of the install and I am having trouble getting clearance to torque the sway bar end nuts. There isnt enought room to get the torque wrench in there...
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul.
#2
Finished install and....
tightened them down as best I could. Same amount of thread exposed as before too.
I would really like to know how people are following the tech article and torquing these nuts. I dont see how a torque wrench will fit.
Paul.
I would really like to know how people are following the tech article and torquing these nuts. I dont see how a torque wrench will fit.
Paul.
#4
Thanks. Boy is that a difficult nut to tighten...
I installed the bar and tightened everything up with the suspension in level 4 & jack mode.
I dont think I have preloaded the bar because:
If I try to tighten the sway bar end nut without another wrench to hold the bolt it turns quite freely.
I dont think I have preloaded the bar because:
If I try to tighten the sway bar end nut without another wrench to hold the bolt it turns quite freely.
#5
Driving impressions with rear PSK sway bar...
On my commute this morning I drove on some twisties and on the highway. The rear was noticeably more controlled and on turns the car was much flatter compared to driving with the old bar.
My first drive was without padding the sway bar near the compressor and there was a lot of noise. As per other AudiWorld-ers I used some foam pipe insulation and zip ties to pad the bar. Now its as quiet as before.
As for the install, it took me longer than 1.5 hours....probably about 2.5. What delayed me was trying to get the sway bar bolts loosened and tightened up again.
Paul.
My first drive was without padding the sway bar near the compressor and there was a lot of noise. As per other AudiWorld-ers I used some foam pipe insulation and zip ties to pad the bar. Now its as quiet as before.
As for the install, it took me longer than 1.5 hours....probably about 2.5. What delayed me was trying to get the sway bar bolts loosened and tightened up again.
Paul.
#6
I think you should be OK...
...because the bar's loading shouldn't depend on the suspension setting (that's why there are those bushings, partly). I think the way it works is when the two ends of the bar are turned opposite each other -- that is, when the bar is twisted by the motion of the chassis -- it resists the twisting and keeps the car flatter overall.
The bigger bar -- being 20% fatter -- should have something like a 44% larger twisting moment (it's cross-sectional area dependent, as I recall).
I think you'll find that the pipe insulation wears out -- you can help it last longer by wedging two layers in the first time. HPH
The bigger bar -- being 20% fatter -- should have something like a 44% larger twisting moment (it's cross-sectional area dependent, as I recall).
I think you'll find that the pipe insulation wears out -- you can help it last longer by wedging two layers in the first time. HPH
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