indoor

I was getting smoke on the passenger side from oil burning last year. I replaced the cam plugs(a few bucks each), and the smoke is gone. My Indy did the valve cover seal job 5 years ago, but I don't think they replaced the cams or if they did they probably used some cheap ones. When I pulled them they looked pretty bad. Especially the passenger one.

The cam plugs are at the back of the engine. You need a mirror to see them. I actually took pictures of them. If you want I can post them. It's a much easier job than doing the whole valve cover seal job. The driver's side cam plug is under the coolant reservoir and takes literally 5 minutes to remove and put a new one in.
The passenger side is a bit more tricky. You need a really really long screw driver. The longest you can find. For either one you need a sharp flat screw driver and a hammer to remove them. You basically drive the flat screw driver into the lip of the cam plug with the hammer and pull it out. The passenger side one is harder to spot and work on. You might be able to get away with just removing the maf hose. I wound up removing the engine filter box too, since I tried with the longest screw driver I had which wasn't long enough. Long story short: after trying in vain for an hour to drive the not so long screw driver into the cam plug(it was late and no stores were open) I gave up. Next day a trip to Home Depot, and the plug was out in 2 minutes So, I can not tell you enough about how important it is to have the long flat screw driver

YKallroad

Great information to have, thanks. I picked up an 18" skinny pry bar with an angled tip, also a 12" flat screwdriver. Hopefully that's the ticket. The DS valve cover gasket was replaced when I bought the car, so I guess it's time for the PS now that I'm tearing things apart.

YKallroad

DS oil return line for the turbo was replaced when I bought the car, so I will be checking the PS one this weekend along with the cam cap replacement. Thanks.

indoor

First picture is the overall location of the passenger cam plug. Top of air box and air filter removed, and maf hose disconnected. I am holding a mirror. The second picture it is just zoomed in on the mirror.
Third pic shows the camp plug on driver side on the way out.The screw driver is in already. It is pried out for the most part. To get to it remove the screws holding down the expansion tank(coolant reservoir)and move the tank with care to the side as far as the hoses permit.

To aid the new plugs installation use some engine oil on the lips and try to get them in at the 'right' angle(they have to be flat with the holes otherwise won't go in). They should go in by hand with a bit of a push. Obviously, passenger side is super tight, and it might take a while...

YKallroad

Super helpful, thanks a bunch.

YKallroad

Stupid combination valve...managed to get the valve cover (passenger side) off, but that was it. It was too tight with the valve in place and I couldn't get the damn thing removed. Bought some torx bit sockets so hopefully I'll be able to get in there with my stubby ratchet tomorrow.

Also broke one of the 3366 tools (good thing I ordered two by accident!) but the chain didn't seem to be loosening at all.

Any tips?

silverd2

I did this just recently (including adjuster gaskets and cam plug << big leaker) and had to remove the combi valve with the mounting "adapter" (tube) from the back of the head...not easy...3 allen head bolts I believe(?). I unbolted the exhaust heat shield below it, to move it just enough to make the bottom bolt a little more accessible. Royal PITA, but did the trick...tougher to get back in than out, though...doable but very tight.

P.S. It helps to loosen all the adjuster bolts (4) a few turns before compressing the adjuster. Plus, when you reinstall the adjuster, you really need to fully release the compression tool 3366 before the bolts will finish torquing down properly (after getting them well started), most especially the inside bolt (under the cover).

YKallroad

New gaskets in. I managed to remove the combi valve using a shorter handled socket wrench and a torx 30 bit. I also removed the bolts for the heat shield (10mm) to move the shield around and gain a bit of space.

After reassembling everything, I now have what sounds like an exhaust leak. Could the exhaust heat shield bolts need some kind of sealant? Or is it possible I have angered the SAI Gods and they are out to spite me?

The plan now is to watch for oil leaks, buy some exhaust gasket sealant (if there is such a thing) and remove the combi valve to put some sealant or something around its base.

A little frustrated here.

G0to60

That's a bummer about the exhaust leak. I hate when you fix one problem only to have another one pop up (ie my current coolant leak search).

On a good note though, those pictures are awesome. I need to get in and replace those cam seals. Pretty sure those are the main cause to my oil leak. At least on the PS.

YKallroad

I found the source of the leak, it's at the base of the combi valve tube where it bolts to the block. It wasn't seated properly (you're working blind down there, even with a mirror.) Fine and dandy, except that I stripped the torx-type bolt trying to tighten everything down.

So I'm ordering the combi valve block-off plates from 034 Motorsports. http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...8-p-21816.html

Now I'll have the bolts I need, and the plates to remove the system when it fails (the pump is already howling bloody murder on cold startup.)