more overstuffed allroad pics
#1
more overstuffed allroad pics
'scuze the delete and repost, seems that if one replies to a few day old post, it gets lost
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#6
My take why not to use fork mounts for bolt-on wheeled bikes
this only applies to 20mm, nutted (bmx) or locking skewer (krypto,etc) axle bikes (the primary ones I use)
- no grab and go, u have to unbolt/remove front wheel and rebolt. 4 procedures per bike per ride. that (obviosuly) wastes time, puts additional wear on hardware
- u can loose hardware or disc brake pads while driving
- if tires are dirty(grease,mud,city filth) you get dirty
- no need to store front wheels or do even more bolting/uboolting on seaparate wheel fork mount
- tire trays adjust easily/quickly with almost all bikes
keep in mind basic phyiscs
(moment arms, leverage)
u have to make sure attachment to the wheels is snug
u have to drive gently w bikes on top, even fork mounts
the audi roof bars appear pretty weak
(imho weight rating is irrelevant, they are thin tubed metal with a male-female press fit junction) and the twising forces on a heavy dh bike (mine is 48lbs) could twist the **** out of a rack and damage rack or rack/car interface.
Now imagine 2 (or more) bikes
I creep over rough roads with head out of window preying is doesnt damage.
smooth roads a lot less worry
So you'll have to limit your allroad enhanced acceleration games to straight lines
No twisties or one-upping other rude drivers
fyi, last time i participated in discussion on this another aw member quoted/tried to counter and turned thread into a public pissing game, dont want a repeat performance
- no grab and go, u have to unbolt/remove front wheel and rebolt. 4 procedures per bike per ride. that (obviosuly) wastes time, puts additional wear on hardware
- u can loose hardware or disc brake pads while driving
- if tires are dirty(grease,mud,city filth) you get dirty
- no need to store front wheels or do even more bolting/uboolting on seaparate wheel fork mount
- tire trays adjust easily/quickly with almost all bikes
keep in mind basic phyiscs
(moment arms, leverage)
u have to make sure attachment to the wheels is snug
u have to drive gently w bikes on top, even fork mounts
the audi roof bars appear pretty weak
(imho weight rating is irrelevant, they are thin tubed metal with a male-female press fit junction) and the twising forces on a heavy dh bike (mine is 48lbs) could twist the **** out of a rack and damage rack or rack/car interface.
Now imagine 2 (or more) bikes
I creep over rough roads with head out of window preying is doesnt damage.
smooth roads a lot less worry
So you'll have to limit your allroad enhanced acceleration games to straight lines
No twisties or one-upping other rude drivers
fyi, last time i participated in discussion on this another aw member quoted/tried to counter and turned thread into a public pissing game, dont want a repeat performance
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#8
When you get unburied...
It's been a while, (and all these are better on non-wknds) but the road up to MT Diablo in Danville, 128 from Rutherford to Winters, 16 from Drytown to Sonora (with a must-do sidetrip up 88 to Volcano). And for high speed runs: A6 from Dales to Manton, east of Red Bluff. Have a fun year!
#9
Re: My take why not to use fork mounts for bolt-on wheeled bikes
I'm only nterrested as i thought maybe you felt it was damaging to the front fork/dropout. I have a nice litespeed road bike with carbon fork and a lefty cannondale mtb which can only use an upright carrier. I actually like the way the fork-mounted racks look better (stupid reason) and I like the lower position of the bike on the car rather than sitting way up on two wheels.
but I'm stuck with thhe upright rack on a thule set up which seems pretty sturdy. my 0.02
but I'm stuck with thhe upright rack on a thule set up which seems pretty sturdy. my 0.02