turbo oil return lines leaking...
01-11-2012, 06:32 PM
#11
AudiWorld Member
Had the same leak on my 2004 with 55K. Dealer replaced o'ring, no help. Than they replaced the line. A year later, the same leak. My warranty end up paying for a new upper oil pan. It was leaking between the metal ring where the line goes in and the aluminum oil pan. Factory defect as we speak. Anyway, the sub frame has to be dropped and we found a leaky motor mount which they also covered. An alignment was needed too. No more leaks after that. Good luck.
01-11-2012, 06:38 PM
#12
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Well I did this over one year ago and the leak stopped. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones...
I think it would be worth doing it yourself even if it might not stop the leak. That way you know it's not the seals.
After that, if the leak continues, I would replace the oil lines altogether(with new seals on both ends: turbo side and oil pan).
And if all these don't work and you still have the leak, than the last option would be replacing the oil pan...
I think it would be worth doing it yourself even if it might not stop the leak. That way you know it's not the seals.
After that, if the leak continues, I would replace the oil lines altogether(with new seals on both ends: turbo side and oil pan).
And if all these don't work and you still have the leak, than the last option would be replacing the oil pan...
07-16-2012, 09:41 PM
#13
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Just got this great PM from a fellow audi addict:
Indoor
"I'm not sure if there is a write up for the turbo oil return seals. I got mine on line from autohausaz. There are two steel hoses that go into the oil pan coming from the turboes. Mine were visibly leaking at the oil pan. At first I thought it was the oil pan's gasket which would've been a lot more work.
Anyway these seals are fairly easy to replace.
I put the car in level 4(jack mode) and put two jack stands under the recommended spots (just in case).
First I drained the oil.(By the way I suggest doing this job the next time you have to change the oil).
I loosened the end links that connect to the front sway bar and removed two brackets that hold it toward the middle of the car. Most people remove the sway bar altogether, I only swung it away(hence loosening the end links instead of removing them). That gives you enough clearance to remove the one little bolt for each oil return line. It could be a 8mm or smaller, I don't remember.
After that you have to pry out the return line. I remember it required a bit force and 'technique'. The oil line goes into the oil pan about one inch. Take your time.
The seals are about half way to the ends. You'll see them. Mine were flat(they are suppose to be round). Cut them or pull them off however you think safely without damaging the oil lines.
To install the new ones use some oil or grease and carefully slide them on.
Put everything back together and replace/change the oil.
If you think of a way to remove 2-3 quarts of oil from the pan without emptying the whole thing, there is that option too...
One more thing: if you decide to lift the car make sure you tighten the sway bar while the car is weighted(on ramps or wheels, not lift or jacks).
Let me know if you have any more questions.
I hope this helps"
It helps a ton indoor...thanks for taking the time!
Indoor
"I'm not sure if there is a write up for the turbo oil return seals. I got mine on line from autohausaz. There are two steel hoses that go into the oil pan coming from the turboes. Mine were visibly leaking at the oil pan. At first I thought it was the oil pan's gasket which would've been a lot more work.
Anyway these seals are fairly easy to replace.
I put the car in level 4(jack mode) and put two jack stands under the recommended spots (just in case).
First I drained the oil.(By the way I suggest doing this job the next time you have to change the oil).
I loosened the end links that connect to the front sway bar and removed two brackets that hold it toward the middle of the car. Most people remove the sway bar altogether, I only swung it away(hence loosening the end links instead of removing them). That gives you enough clearance to remove the one little bolt for each oil return line. It could be a 8mm or smaller, I don't remember.
After that you have to pry out the return line. I remember it required a bit force and 'technique'. The oil line goes into the oil pan about one inch. Take your time.
The seals are about half way to the ends. You'll see them. Mine were flat(they are suppose to be round). Cut them or pull them off however you think safely without damaging the oil lines.
To install the new ones use some oil or grease and carefully slide them on.
Put everything back together and replace/change the oil.
If you think of a way to remove 2-3 quarts of oil from the pan without emptying the whole thing, there is that option too...
One more thing: if you decide to lift the car make sure you tighten the sway bar while the car is weighted(on ramps or wheels, not lift or jacks).
Let me know if you have any more questions.
I hope this helps"
It helps a ton indoor...thanks for taking the time!
Rather use oil or grease to install the hose, I was thinking of using some gasket sealant. The kind one would use for a valve cover job. While it's still wet, it should slide just as well, tighten it down and let it dry for a few hours before putting the oil back in.
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