Does boost mode work?
Remember it needs a full enough battery and reasonable battery temperatures.

 

I live in the UK

 

As others have stated, drive for a while and give the GOM time to come up with an actual longer term average.

Remember though that the range estimates are all based on best case scenarios, such as ambient temps around 78dF; no/little wind; no rain; average speed around 55mph iirc, etc.

Also, do you have the 50 or 55 etron?

 

yes, everything otherwise works as normal - boost remains accessible until it reads 20%, car drives fine. It’s just that my range has dropped fairly suddenly (right now I have 100% battery with 175 GOM), and when I drive I see average consumption sitting around 44-45 kWh/100mi. Basically the math seems to consistently suggest I am down to 72-75kWh of total useable battery.

I am next going to carefully monitor charging - maybe there’s phantom drain going on and I’m losing more power than what the consumption is actually showing? I assume that number should include all draws though…

 

so here’s a new datapoint - I stopped for 30 min on a similar long drive, and when I got back in the car my battery % jumped a good 5-8% when we got back in the car.

any idea what this suggests?

 

I drive 74 miles at an average speed of 60 MPH with AC on
it only used 48 miles of battery. Not sure how that works
i have a Mercedes EQC which puts about 220 miles into the battery but every mile is correct.

 

As noted many times in this thread, the GoM is not a fuel gauge. You do not add "miles" to your battery. Thinking about your battery and range that way is destined to lead you to frustration and confusion because that's not how it works. The fact that your EQC's GoM is more accurate than your e-tron's GoM could be from any number of reasons -- perhaps you drive it under more stable/consistent conditions. Perhaps Mercedes uses a more aggressive algorithm to factor in recent driving habits, or even uses some AI to better project future usage. Who knows. But you MUST stop thinking about your battery as in "adding miles" to it. Your battery stores kWh of energy. When you charge it, you add kWh (energy) to the battery. Stop treating the GoM like a fuel gauge and things will make a lot more sense.

 

An example of how this can happen: You are out on the highway doing 80MPH for a good distance. You arrive home and charge up, the GOM will predict the range based on the high consumption of the previous highway driving.
Next you hop in the car and do 60MPH for a good distance where the consumption is much lower; not to mention possibly some regen. Your overall consumption is much lower and since the GOM is constantly recalculating you use less kWh/mi than at the highway drive, resulting in less miles subtracted from the GOM and more range.
Keep in mind that the GOM is constantly recalculating based on the consumption. If all your trips were at the same MPH, same weather conditions then the GOM would always subtract a mile for every mile driven.

 

Ok just wondering why a charge it up to 100% and it only put 237 miles in it. I’ve only done 500 miles in it. I asked Audi how when I picked it up it had 300 miles of range on it

 

I feel like you aren't actually reading the various replies we have given you here. You don't add miles to the battery when you charge.

The only true measure of whether your battery is in good health, is whether your measured consumption (in mi/kWh or Wh/mi) matches to your battery capacity and utilization (as shown by the SoC% meter in the dash).

So let's say you start your morning with the car charged to 80% SoC (which means it has 80% of 106kWh == 85kWh of usable energy in the battery. You drive around all day and when you get home, the SoC% meter reports that you are at 63%. This means you depleted 17% of the 106kWh of usable energy, or 18kWh. Then you can look at the "Short Term Memory" on the virtual cockpit. Let's say it shows a short-term consumption of 2.8 mi/kWh. This means that for the 18kWh expended, you should have driven 18*2.8 = 50 miles.

In the (rare) situation where your battery is actually damaged or defective, you'll have consumption figures that all seem to line up, but the SoC% won't match. In the above example, let's say that you arrived home from that 50 mile drive and your Short Term Memory is showing a consumption rate of 2.8 mi/kWh. But instead of showing 63% SoC (17% drain), it shows 60% SoC (20% drain). 20% of 106kWh is 21 kWh, which at 2.8 mi/kWh should have taken you 60 miles, not the 50 you actually drove. So the percentage drain on the battery doesn't match the actual consumption and mileage, indicating that you aren't getting your full battery capacity (in this example, I'm assuming that 20kWh of cells are malfunctioning).

That's the only kind of evidence that your Audi dealer will accept as evidence that the battery might be defective. You must be able to show that, given a measured consumption rate, that you aren't getting the mileage out of the car that is expected. They can then use that to justify dropping the battery out of the car and testing all the cell packs to see if one is not working. In the (again, rare) case that this happens, the symptom is that the car behaves as if it has a smaller battery (and thus, the SoC% drops at a faster rate than expected given a consumption rate and mileage).