Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ), Procedures and Resources
12-26-2006, 06:08 AM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
How to change your front strut inserts, strut mounts, and strut bearings without removing the strut
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12-27-2006, 04:27 AM
#22
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Coding plug (130mph speed limit)
In order to have speed limit set to 130 mph
you should bridge terminal 1 of coding plug to terminal 4 which results in terminal 38 of the ECU being connected to ground.
Coding plug can be found next to ECU in electronics box under the carpet in the
passengers footwell.
you should bridge terminal 1 of coding plug to terminal 4 which results in terminal 38 of the ECU being connected to ground.
Coding plug can be found next to ECU in electronics box under the carpet in the
passengers footwell.
12-27-2006, 07:02 AM
#23
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Location: Vancouver, BC
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suspension rebuild parts list
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12-27-2006, 01:01 PM
#24
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
VM Autohaus for those in Canada
Local to me but will ship to rest of Canada. Ask for Kris. Say "Dave F. sent me"<ul><li><a href="http://www.vmautohaus.com/">http://www.vmautohaus.com/</a</li></ul>
12-28-2006, 04:34 PM
#29
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Injector flow rates and part numbers
AAN injectors
Run at 4.0 bar FPR in S4/S6
Bosch 0 280 150 951
Audi 034 906 031B
280 cc/ min @ 3.0 bar
315 cc/ min @ 3.8 bar
323 cc/ min @ 4.0 bar
361 cc/ min @ 5.0 bar
ADU (RS2) Injectors
Run at 3.8 bar FPR in RS2
Bosch 0 280 150 984
Audi 034 906 031F
360 cc/ min @ 3.0 bar
405 cc/ min @ 3.8 bar
416 cc/ min @ 4.0 bar
465 cc/ min @ 5.0 bar
Run at 4.0 bar FPR in S4/S6
Bosch 0 280 150 951
Audi 034 906 031B
280 cc/ min @ 3.0 bar
315 cc/ min @ 3.8 bar
323 cc/ min @ 4.0 bar
361 cc/ min @ 5.0 bar
ADU (RS2) Injectors
Run at 3.8 bar FPR in RS2
Bosch 0 280 150 984
Audi 034 906 031F
360 cc/ min @ 3.0 bar
405 cc/ min @ 3.8 bar
416 cc/ min @ 4.0 bar
465 cc/ min @ 5.0 bar
12-28-2006, 04:37 PM
#30
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RS2 manifold installation instructions
Courtesy of Jerry Scott.
The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by anyone who has done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has a complete set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen wrenches, and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a bench grinder, and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your time, and are not frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt locations, you will find it a rewarding challenge. Three standard wrenches, (one 15 mm.
combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be modified by grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about $3.00 each.
1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the lift point under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by turning with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may alternately want to run the front of the car up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor jack.
2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is necessary since you will need to disconnect two water lines from the turbo.
Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the car, when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The engine should be cool before starting this procedure.
3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and snapping it off from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter from the car.
4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the manifold. Then remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows pipe, where it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can be reused.
Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put a piece of masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from loosing the bolt and washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to be removed. Note that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches from the manifold.
This is a metal to metal fit.
5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is smaller (15 mm) than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult to remove. It is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat and bend the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an inexpensive forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose, (approximately:
$3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to get the nut to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier. Tape the lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of this line while you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket on one line at the top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that will need to be scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines will require removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. The gasket at this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note orientation of which side of the gasket is against the turbo.
7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by removing 3 nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to hacksaw these bolts to remove them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack up the driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts on the exhaust pipe on this side of the car. It is only necessary to loosen these bolts.
8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear the turbo studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering damper rod, then pull it tight.
9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the turbo by loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward. There is also a small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will need to be removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until you lift out the turbo assembly.
10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing the manifold studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose, then by lifting it out.
11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold with a 12 mm deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.
12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and replaced with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold shows which studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the correct studs.
The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the front, and bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips the stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud threads. The studs are not reusable after removal.
13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread outward. Use two of the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the head, with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully seated against the stud shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.
14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket, having the shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the short studs.
Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the thread locking part of the nut will not have enought engagement on the stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the other nuts on loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to tighten the three bottom short studs first. These three studs will be difficult to tighten and will require tools to be modified, due to the small clearance around the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker Auto, or your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.
15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination wrench that has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down to .180 in., and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise. You will need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits over the two nuts.
16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten), you will need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove some of the outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it down as far as you can go without cutting through the box ring, (approximately .650 in.
diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225 in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90 deg., about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the wrench on the nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by making grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits over the nut.
17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4, then # 5, bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted the wrench in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket ratchet wrench.
18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine. Audi requires a phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi, ($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the machining oils are burned off.
The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by anyone who has done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has a complete set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen wrenches, and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a bench grinder, and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your time, and are not frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt locations, you will find it a rewarding challenge. Three standard wrenches, (one 15 mm.
combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be modified by grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about $3.00 each.
1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the lift point under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by turning with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may alternately want to run the front of the car up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor jack.
2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is necessary since you will need to disconnect two water lines from the turbo.
Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the car, when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The engine should be cool before starting this procedure.
3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and snapping it off from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter from the car.
4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the manifold. Then remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows pipe, where it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can be reused.
Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put a piece of masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from loosing the bolt and washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to be removed. Note that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches from the manifold.
This is a metal to metal fit.
5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is smaller (15 mm) than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult to remove. It is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat and bend the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an inexpensive forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose, (approximately:
$3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to get the nut to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier. Tape the lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of this line while you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket on one line at the top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that will need to be scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines will require removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. The gasket at this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note orientation of which side of the gasket is against the turbo.
7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by removing 3 nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to hacksaw these bolts to remove them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack up the driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts on the exhaust pipe on this side of the car. It is only necessary to loosen these bolts.
8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear the turbo studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering damper rod, then pull it tight.
9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the turbo by loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward. There is also a small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will need to be removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until you lift out the turbo assembly.
10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing the manifold studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose, then by lifting it out.
11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold with a 12 mm deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.
12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and replaced with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold shows which studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the correct studs.
The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the front, and bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips the stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud threads. The studs are not reusable after removal.
13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread outward. Use two of the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the head, with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully seated against the stud shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.
14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket, having the shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the short studs.
Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the thread locking part of the nut will not have enought engagement on the stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the other nuts on loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to tighten the three bottom short studs first. These three studs will be difficult to tighten and will require tools to be modified, due to the small clearance around the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker Auto, or your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.
15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination wrench that has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down to .180 in., and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise. You will need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits over the two nuts.
16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten), you will need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove some of the outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it down as far as you can go without cutting through the box ring, (approximately .650 in.
diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225 in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90 deg., about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the wrench on the nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by making grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits over the nut.
17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4, then # 5, bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted the wrench in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket ratchet wrench.
18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine. Audi requires a phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi, ($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the machining oils are burned off.