intermittent no-start condition when engine is warm
#1
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intermittent no-start condition when engine is warm
Sorry for all the newbie posts while I sort out my "new" car. Anyway, it occasionally fails to start when the engine is warm (recently driven). When that happens, I turn the key and hear silence. Nothing. No clicks.
I replaced the timing belt this past weekend and did the cam position sensor while I was there. That didn't solve the problem. Wishful thinking.
Next I will take a hard look at the G4 Crank Position Sensor and RPM Sensor with my multimeter. I read in one of Dave F's posts that the CPS is supposed to read ~1000 Ohms. How about the RPM sensor?
Any other ideas? The ignition switch is 8 months old according to the records I received. The "hot start" issue really makes me suspect a sensor...
I replaced the timing belt this past weekend and did the cam position sensor while I was there. That didn't solve the problem. Wishful thinking.
Next I will take a hard look at the G4 Crank Position Sensor and RPM Sensor with my multimeter. I read in one of Dave F's posts that the CPS is supposed to read ~1000 Ohms. How about the RPM sensor?
Any other ideas? The ignition switch is 8 months old according to the records I received. The "hot start" issue really makes me suspect a sensor...
#2
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I was thinking ignition switch and then you mentioned it at the bottom. I'm sure you'll get some more/better suggestions, but I'd at least consider tossing in a new 1 (since it's cheap and easy) before I spend bigger bucks on other components.
It will still turn over with a bad cam sensor, just not fire up. I would guess crank is the same way, but not sure.
It will still turn over with a bad cam sensor, just not fire up. I would guess crank is the same way, but not sure.
#3
Turning the key to start and not getting any result has nothing to do with the cam sensor, the engine speed sensor or the crank position sensor. It will either be an ignition switch issue or a connection at the starter. Start by checking the connections at the starter, including the ground strap, as shown in the photo below. If you pull off the connector to the starter solenoid and put your multimeter to 20V DC, you should get 11.5(ish)V there (between the connector and a ground) when a friend turns the key to start. No voltage = ignition switch issue. Decent voltage = starter issue (solenoid or the starter itself).
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Dave F, thanks for that diagram. It'll be my weekend project. I might as well order another ignition switch now. Worst case, it'll land in the emergency parts box I keep in the trunk.
#5
C4 Ignition Switch Replacement DIY
IF you do end up replacing the ignition switch, this DIY might prove useful:
http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIY.pdf
http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIY.pdf
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You hit the nail on the head. I tested the voltage at the starter solenoid with the key in the start position. No voltage. I will be installing an OEM (black) ignition switch tonight. Thanks!
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