littleyellowbat

I have searched a bit on the forum for replacing the Front Control Arms. But I need some help with a few questions.

The part for the front left arm that came off was 4A0 407 157B 01. Thats the number stamped on the arm. In all my searching that replacement part number cant be found. The part I ordered was a TRW brand 4A0 407 151. All the places I looked seemed to have this as the correct part number for the car, 1995.5 S6 Avant. When looking at the two parts it looks a little like the new arm is slightly shorter than the old but its hard to tell since the shape of the arm is curved a little. Do I have the right replacement part?... is the 4A0 407 151 a part number that supersedes the the other I mention?

Also I am trying to install the new arm and having trouble. I have a ratchet strap pulling the sway bar back towards the right rear tire and am also jacking up the strut assembly but i am having trouble getting the inner mount for the control arm in place. I feel like I need to put a rediculous amount of tension of the strap to pull the control arm/strut assembly in far enough to mount the inner part of the control arm. I have the sway bar inner bushing installed and nut loosly threaded on. Do I need to loosen the inner sway bar mounts?

Any help from the pros is greatly appreciated.

Will

littleyellowbat

- Sorry, I meant that I have the Outer control arm bushing installed and the nut loosely on the end of the sway bar to hold the bushings in place -

Wondering if I need to loosen the inner sway bar mounts to get the inner mount of the control arm in place?...assuming I have the correct control arm part to begin with.

scarman

4A0 407 151 and 152 are the correct part numbers for lower control arms on the UrS cars. These part numbers would not be cast or stamped in the genuine Audi parts nor most aftermarket brands, anymore than you would expect to see the part # in a brake caliper casting.

There is probably something in the FAQ section to help you with the installation-if not here, maybe another site.
Intuition should tell you that your approach is incorrect. Start with the inner attachment of the control arm at the subframe attachment, insuring you are using a new bolt and that the sleeve is in place also. You can't tighten and torque the bolt until you put the wheels on the ground but it forms the pivot point to attach all other points. You have not mentioned the ball joint attachment, but do it next, then pry or pull the swaybar into position for the bushings and washers there. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations for all fasteners.

littleyellowbat

Thanks for the tip scarman. I'll try this method tonight and see how I fare. After thinking about it, your idea sounds better than my first method. Hope to report back success on this.

Also the clarification on the part number issue was much needed. Thanks on that note as well.

misfiturs4

I have to do this same job soon before it gets too cold out. Its time for new tires and an alignment there after. If anyone has anymore tips I would like to hear them. Also where do I order the best parts for the best price? I know I can find the arms many places by many different manufactures, but what about fasteners and sway bar bushings?

Joe100S

Try this:

http://genuineaudiparts.com/partloca...layCatalogid=0

scarman

I'm not sure what anyone is supposed to make of that list. What is he going to pay, $258 or $349 or $403? All for the same price? If you are going to use that catalog, you need to know the differences between S4 and 100 parts because the catalog mixes them all up. Entering by part # is the only sure way to use Miramar Audi or the other dealers that use that catalog. (it is not an Audi product).

Joe100S

This is why it's important to get a set of manuals for the car and then check the part numbers against the old parts, but even then there's been so many parts superseded over the years that you may not always find things based strictly on the original part number.

Even with the 3 volume set of factory manuals and checking against old parts (if they have numbers on them) I often end up on the phone with the dealer navigating a long list of superseded part numbers. As with all projects, DIY'ers need to double check everything when using alternate parts sources. So it goes with cars that are nearly 20 years old.

scarman

There is a list of online parts sellers in the FAQ. You will have to shop around to find the best prices, since one seller probably doesn't have everything you need at the lowest price. The rock bottom price is not always best because you have to consider shipping and service for each purchase. But, if you check around you will have a better idea of what a fair price is.

Someone posted autopartsway.com on the forum. I haven't used them and I urge caution if you are not sure what part fits your car because they have lots of stuff there that does not belong on these cars. They list TRW front control arms for sale, which I think are the best aftermarket choice, and I don't think you want to pay $250 each for the dealer part. The bushings I don't know. Meyle parts have been some of the worst rubber parts but they claim to have a "new, improved, heavy duty" bushing for about twice the price of the others. The CRP bushings have been ok for me, but I avoid those chinese offerings from FEQ, etc. Anything that the dealer sells at a discount for $30 that is offered for $4 is suspect in my mind, even when I know that dealer part shouldn't be more than $10 list.

If you are replacing parts in the strut at this time, the genuine Audi upper strut mount is the only part that has given satisfactory service for me. If someone else is doing the work on your suspension, you should at least have this conversation with them about what parts they are going to use since there is so much variation in price and quality (and those two do not always go together).

Joe100S

Tom,

Have the CRP bushings been any better than the Audi part from the dealer? I am just now ordering bushings for the lower control arms on my car.

J