Driveshaft Rebuild Instructions
01-01-2009, 10:19 AM
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Driveshaft Rebuild Instructions
After experiencing play in my driveshaft and vibration, I decided to have my driveshaft rebuilt. I tried replacing just the center support myself, but it still did not solve the vibration and clunking. Since a new one is $1200 and no stock in North America, the options are pretty limited.
<b>Parts</b>
- CV joints, Porsche 92333203200
- Support bearing, Blau ($179) or 034 ($100)
- Bolts from CV to flanges M8x48, N 019 926 1, qty 12
- Exhaust bolts, cat to down pipe M8x42 nuts, M8 lock nuts, copper shouldered, qty 6 ea
Or
- driveshaft rebuild kit (see below)
I bought a complete rebuild kit from Blau which comes with everything; 2 CV joints, boots, clamps, snap rings, grease, center support bearing, u-joint (spider), even the gaskets between the flanges and the joints and 12 new bolts. Cost was $400. Not a bad price considering the CV joints and bearing are about $350.
<b>Removal</b>
Separate the exhaust at the double clamps, remove the cats from the downpipes, remove the 2 body support brackets, remove the tin heat shield, remove the heat shield at the transmission flange (Torx T-45), then remove the 6 hex head bolts with a 6 mm allen wrench. I used a 1/4 drive 6 mm socket on a nut driver slipped on the 6 mm allen key for added leverage.
Before removing the driveshaft, mark the position of the support bearing bracket where it bolts to the body.
<b>Shop Rebuild</b>
I took the driveshaft to a shop that specializes in non-serviceable u-joints and they removed the old spider and staked in the new one. This is not a DIY operation and requires a special tool to stake in the spider. They also separated the driveshaft and installed the center support bearing for me and popped off the CV joints. The shop balanced the driveshaft and added weights where necessary.
Install new boots and crimp clamps. Install the new CVs by packing with moly grease and tap into place with a deadblow hammer, taking care to tap on the inner race. Install new snap rings supplied with Blau kit or re-use old ones.
<b>DIY Rebuild</b>
If your u-joint is good and are just doing the support bearing, the driveshaft still needs to be separated. Index the halves with a marker so it can be re-installed in the exact same position, otherwise it will be out of balance. Remove the bolt holding the u-joint together, this is pretty tight, as it has locking compound on it.
Now for the hard part, to separate the shafts, you need to use a BFH and a brass drift. It takes a lot of hard blows to remove the joint from the splined shaft. Once the shaft is separated you can remove the support bracket-bearing. A bearing splitter works here.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/52091/dscf1259.1.jpg">
When installing the new bearing, note that long side of the bracket goes on the passenger side. Tap on the inner race with a large socket and hammer to fully seat the bearing. Re-install the driveshaft halves in same position and seat with BFH and drift. Apply locking compound to bolt and tighten.
<b>Installation</b>
Since it is critical that the driveshaft be installed perfectly straight, I made a special jig out of wood and held the driveshaft tightly in place with zip ties.
<i>Note: Picture does not show new CV joints and shows 034 bracket. Final assembly is with new CV joints, boots, spider and Blau bracket.</i>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/52091/dscf1267.jpg">
Apply medium strength locking compound to bolts and let dry (OEM bolts have it on already). Install driveshaft and tighten bolts to 41 ft-lbs. A torque wrench is difficult to get in here, use your judgment.
The driveshaft has to be centered fore and aft, by pushing it forward, marking the position of the bracket, then back marking again, then positioning it in the middle.
The driveshaft also has to be straight in the vertical axis by shimming the space between the bracket and the body. The Blau bracket was exactly the same and I used the original shims. Tighten bolts to 15 ft-lb. Remove jig.
As they say, installation is the reverse. Take care to position cats squarely on the downpipe so that the end lines up nicely with the middle muffler pipes.
<b>Parts</b>
- CV joints, Porsche 92333203200
- Support bearing, Blau ($179) or 034 ($100)
- Bolts from CV to flanges M8x48, N 019 926 1, qty 12
- Exhaust bolts, cat to down pipe M8x42 nuts, M8 lock nuts, copper shouldered, qty 6 ea
Or
- driveshaft rebuild kit (see below)
I bought a complete rebuild kit from Blau which comes with everything; 2 CV joints, boots, clamps, snap rings, grease, center support bearing, u-joint (spider), even the gaskets between the flanges and the joints and 12 new bolts. Cost was $400. Not a bad price considering the CV joints and bearing are about $350.
<b>Removal</b>
Separate the exhaust at the double clamps, remove the cats from the downpipes, remove the 2 body support brackets, remove the tin heat shield, remove the heat shield at the transmission flange (Torx T-45), then remove the 6 hex head bolts with a 6 mm allen wrench. I used a 1/4 drive 6 mm socket on a nut driver slipped on the 6 mm allen key for added leverage.
Before removing the driveshaft, mark the position of the support bearing bracket where it bolts to the body.
<b>Shop Rebuild</b>
I took the driveshaft to a shop that specializes in non-serviceable u-joints and they removed the old spider and staked in the new one. This is not a DIY operation and requires a special tool to stake in the spider. They also separated the driveshaft and installed the center support bearing for me and popped off the CV joints. The shop balanced the driveshaft and added weights where necessary.
Install new boots and crimp clamps. Install the new CVs by packing with moly grease and tap into place with a deadblow hammer, taking care to tap on the inner race. Install new snap rings supplied with Blau kit or re-use old ones.
<b>DIY Rebuild</b>
If your u-joint is good and are just doing the support bearing, the driveshaft still needs to be separated. Index the halves with a marker so it can be re-installed in the exact same position, otherwise it will be out of balance. Remove the bolt holding the u-joint together, this is pretty tight, as it has locking compound on it.
Now for the hard part, to separate the shafts, you need to use a BFH and a brass drift. It takes a lot of hard blows to remove the joint from the splined shaft. Once the shaft is separated you can remove the support bracket-bearing. A bearing splitter works here.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/52091/dscf1259.1.jpg">
When installing the new bearing, note that long side of the bracket goes on the passenger side. Tap on the inner race with a large socket and hammer to fully seat the bearing. Re-install the driveshaft halves in same position and seat with BFH and drift. Apply locking compound to bolt and tighten.
<b>Installation</b>
Since it is critical that the driveshaft be installed perfectly straight, I made a special jig out of wood and held the driveshaft tightly in place with zip ties.
<i>Note: Picture does not show new CV joints and shows 034 bracket. Final assembly is with new CV joints, boots, spider and Blau bracket.</i>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/52091/dscf1267.jpg">
Apply medium strength locking compound to bolts and let dry (OEM bolts have it on already). Install driveshaft and tighten bolts to 41 ft-lbs. A torque wrench is difficult to get in here, use your judgment.
The driveshaft has to be centered fore and aft, by pushing it forward, marking the position of the bracket, then back marking again, then positioning it in the middle.
The driveshaft also has to be straight in the vertical axis by shimming the space between the bracket and the body. The Blau bracket was exactly the same and I used the original shims. Tighten bolts to 15 ft-lb. Remove jig.
As they say, installation is the reverse. Take care to position cats squarely on the downpipe so that the end lines up nicely with the middle muffler pipes.
01-01-2009, 03:02 PM
#4
Nice write up and excellent job saving yourself some tall dollars...
Can you explain about having the driveline perfectly straight when it's install?
I've done my fair share of driveline R&R's, including taking the one out of my '95 C4 A6 Avant, cleaning and repacking the CV joints and putting it back in the. Never have I done anything other than hold the drive up in the tunnel, get the center support bolts started, and then get each end in position, mount each end, and then preload and tighten down the 2 center support bolts. Haven't had any issues with this method.
I've done my fair share of driveline R&R's, including taking the one out of my '95 C4 A6 Avant, cleaning and repacking the CV joints and putting it back in the. Never have I done anything other than hold the drive up in the tunnel, get the center support bolts started, and then get each end in position, mount each end, and then preload and tighten down the 2 center support bolts. Haven't had any issues with this method.
01-01-2009, 03:42 PM
#5
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The alignment is probably not an issue if you don't replace the center bearing bracket.
As long as you put it back in the exact same spot, an alignment tool is probably not necessary.
Replacement brackets may not be exactly the same shape-dimension which would require shimming.
Replacement brackets may not be exactly the same shape-dimension which would require shimming.
