wurldpeace

so today i removed my fuel pump.. no fun at all. and the re-install is going to be difficult, because of the baffle harness.

im posting to ask about the guage float and wiring. the wire for the float arm looks like.. bare speaker wire that was in a fire?... yup,well that's the wire that was split and causing my faulty fuel guage. anybody seen these type of wires before to know why theyre like this(bare) & any reason why they have to or dont have to be replaced with exact replacements.
i dont even want to ask what a new assembly goes for, so i hope my rewiring works
mine is currently resolderd and should work as intended, but i figured the more feedback the better.

im also pissed that i didnt have the foresight to upgrade the pump since the rs2 setup will be exceeded before this pump dies. i smell an in-line brewing.

UrS4boy

be bare because liquid gasoline has a tremendous resistance to electrical current.
When you put the float assembly back in, remember that you have to get the fuel pump wires and the fuel hose on the front-of-the-car side of the plastic fuel float support arm. If you don't the hose and/or wire will hang the float arm up and your gauge won't work.

Dave F.

wurldpeace

i said though id be exceeding rs2&400 soon enough. in my hindsight,worthy of an upgrade.. its not too late,its not in yet..but besides, ive had trouble searching for an install on such a task. the harness is the key if its going to be where the OEM one is,& ours wont fit larger.

for the guage.. the other wire is sealed(nice), doesnt hinge though like the one in question.

i question also the re-soldering ive done instead of total replacement. i did a good job, but the wire is old.

ill defininely keep a good eye on those hoses,thanks. but first concern is the harness wich i guess i dont expect help with because if i even knew how to do it already, i dont know if id be able to explain.

that harness is like one of those stones in indiana jones or something where it only fits just so, andthen bingo