UrS4boy

This from Jim F. on the audifans (US) s-cars list.

"I had been experiencing an intermittent CEL warning light, and the codes were coming up indicating a faulty CPS (Cam Position Sensor.) Car was running fine and would start with no issue, until a few days ago when it wouldn't start. So, with replacement CPS in hand, I went in and discovered that my Cam seal has been leaking and there was a bunch of oil and grit behind the cam sprocket, and thus the CPS was coated with dirt. Not having a fresh seal available and needing the car immediately, I decided to just clean things up nicely and put it back together, knowing I'd have to replace the seal, and could then put in the new sensor while I'm there. I reset the codes, car started and runs without issue, and is not throwing a code after an hour of spirited driving."

Now Jim is looking for cam seal replacement info. I thought I would pull a few things together to help him, using photos and diagrams that I already have or can access.

First thing is the cam cover will have to be removed (at least in my procedure). Since it will be off, you have a perfect opportunity to replace the Item 17 cam cover gasket (including the circular and half-moon bits). When removing the cam cover remember that Items 19 have to be removed as well. Also note that Items 15 and 16 are different lengths and need to go back to the same location later. Torque is nominal. Like 7 ft-lb, aka "Gutundtite"



The cam sprocket has to be removed, as per the first steps in Nate P's G40 replacement DIY: Picasa Web Albums - Nate Persing - Cam Position ...

So then you would be looking at this (except with no cam cover):



While you could replace the seal without removing the cam cover, with the cam cover off, you can remove the cam cap "0" the one on the outer side of the exhaust cam chain sprocket:



The cam seal is item 8 068103085E



While some suppliers *might* try to sell you a crankshaft seal as the camshaft seal, the 054115147B crankshaft seal is 35 x 48 x 10. https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...147B/ES260046/



The camshaft seal is 068103085E is 47 x 10 x 32 which sometimes gets sold as a crankshaft seal https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...085E/ES278261/



If you remove that very front cam cap, it will a piece of cake to remove the old seal and install the new one. Installation is the reverse of removal. But first, clean out the seal housing area and the camshaft, lubricate the new seal and then install it over the camshaft. You might want to vary the location of the seal relative to the old seal slightly so the new seal is running on a portion of the cam that isn't worn.

UrS4boy

You don't need to remove the cam cover that very front "external" cam cap (Cap"0") if you have seal removal and installation tools such as these alternatives

Fancy set:





Or

less expensive Removal tools:



or this official seal removal tool from Samstag sales:



Cheap installation tool (1.5" ABS threaded cap, here, sitting on a crank seal for example) which I used on a crank seal

janl

You can also remove a seal with sheet metal screws. Carefully drill a small hole in the metal flange of the seal, insert a screw and use an appropriate pry bar to pop the seal out. In an aluminum housing I will use multiple screws to prevent cocking the seal and damaging the seal bore. There are a number of YouTube videos on this subject, most are hack mechanics including using the screw to push the seal out. I was a mechanic for twenty years and everyone in the shop used this method when special removal tools were not available and never damaged seal bor or shaft. The key word is "carefully".

UrS4boy

Janl: How did you install the new seal?

janl

When I install any seal, I follow the general practices I was taught in mechanics school, the procedures in the workshop manual AND workseal manufacturers instructions.

Make sure everything is very clean, the shaft free of nicks and scratches, use a seal driver or other recommended installation tool and use sealants and lubricants only when recommended. Many of the new seals are to be installed dry. On start up, the friction of the seal and shaft heats up the seal and deposits a thin layer of Teflon on the shaft. The seal then runs on a Teflon film instead of running on the steel shaft. Also, these seals need several hours to conform to their environment prior to start up.