PART 2 : Switch was Succesfully 'Switched' (was Broken) + Brand New Battery, but Still NO START?
 

The instruction i forum gave me the confidence to replace a faulty switch that I've been living with for 280k Miles. After the car simply shut off on me while driving, I simply though that the switch completely went bad and replaced it, (just took me an hour by the way).

Forum members "repeater" & "fast4est" were nice enough to point out to check battery lever and measure for sufficient voltage. I did and replaced the battery in search of at least being able to have it crank the starter.

NO SUCCESS IN CRANKING THE MOTOR TO EVEN TURN, & I want to enjoy the winter in this car before the snow melts here in Northeast Massachusetts.("I don't wanna drive in the Astro Van" my son says...)

Could there be a main fuse in between the battery and starter that I can look for to replace? Am I missing a step on the switch replacement while my dash is still apart?

It's Sunday 10:41 and I've been at it since 7am(couldn't sleep thinking about it), and I have a 9am Series 7 examine to take in Worcestor tommorow, I need my car today!
Please help...

When you turn the key, the dash lights and stuff come on?
 

then when you try to start the car, nothing happens? Do the dash lights dim? You might want to use a muntimeter to see if when you try to start the car if the battery shows that a load is being applied (ie a decent voltage drop). If their is, I'd guess your starter is bad. If there is no load, no voltage drop, and no dash lights, then your ignition switch may be hooked up wrong or just bad.

Dash Lights GO ON! But the nature of the failure happened while car was running, then STOPPED!
 

So whether my starter works now, would be an after thought, wouldn't it be? What I'm say is that, when the car last ran it was already on(no starter interaction at that point). It just stopped running while the car was rolling.
So process of elimination would be:
1) that faulty switch abruptly cut off the engine(REPLACED)
2) The alternator stopped charging the battery, in turn causing it to drain and no longer able to supply juice to the electical (REPLACED BATTERY)

3) Now you suggest BAD SWITCH OR STARTER?
I'll diagnose this with the meter...

Thanks

ps But is their perhaps a relay or fuse between battery and starter?

easiest way to find out, check for voltage at the starter solinoid.
 

if you don't have voltage there when trying to crank the car, then we can trace it back.

YGM

Have you checked the fuel pump yet? Either that or the Cam PS.

I haven't checked either, but I get absolutely nothing when I hit the switch not even the lights dim

Open up the knee bolster area under the steering wheel and ....
 

use your multimeter to check for voltages with and without the key on. For example, Post/Terminal 15 is a switched hot, i.e. 12 V when the key is on. There are others "X" (which is hot all the time) and "30" which are on the load reduction circuit, i.e.turned off while the key is in the start position. Somehow, I don't think you are getting power there when you should be.

Do you even have power at the + post on the cowl (passenger side with the hood up)?

I don't think it was the alternator or the starter but something more fundamental, like a loss of ground or broken cable or, as you suggest, a wicked failure of a main fuse.

back at ya.

bad switch can cause the starter too keep spinning and wear out