Gunter5

I'm mechanically inclined.

I could use a guide if it is available. I used a search feature, but came up with nothing useful. I appreciate it!

UrS4boy

Sure, but how much can you bench press and do you have a hoist?

Replacement kits are available from LUK and Sachs. The LUK clutch kit is 02-025 (not "026" as some people found out the hard way). Aftermarket clutches are available from Center Force, Spec and Southbend. An after market clutch is pretty well necessary, especially if you are going big power, i.e. RS2 levels and above. People are liking the Southbend from EFI Express.

At this point you would probably be smart to do the clutch slave cylinder and maybe the clutch master cylinder at the same time. Check out THIS INFO

R&R the clutch would go something like this:

1. Safely secure vehicle at a height appropriate for the job (Best on a hoist because there are some transmission bolts best accessed from above) Leave transmission in gear.
2. Remove exhaust system ((you might need new cat to exhaust system bolts later, especially if you cut them off in this step).
3. Disconnect drive shaft from transmission (tie front portion of drive shaft out of the way).
4. Disconnect shift linkage noting position, etc. for reinstallation.
5. Disconnect line to clutch slave cylinder. Plug feed line from clutch master cylinder to prevent fluid dripping.
6. Disconnect reverse switch power connector
7. Remove bolts from around the transmission (NOTE: There are different length bolts in different locations. Somehow, make note of which bolt goes where so re-installation will go smoother).
8. Pull/Slide transmission away from the engine, while supporting the transmission appropirately. Place in a safe secure location
9. Remove clutch pressure plate from flywheel. Place bolts in safe location.
10. Remove clutch friction disc (note: no springs in the disc)
11. Inspect the flywheel. If significantly marked or heat-discoloured, consider replacement or resurfacing (dual mass flywheel but they can be resurfaced by competent shops). NOTE: Removal of the flywheel requires new flywheel bolts for reinstallation. You will also want to replace the pilot bearing the flywheel (even if you leave the flywheel alone)
12. Once decision has been made about the flywheel and it has been replaced/resurfaced and reinstalled (or left alone) and the new pilot bearing installed, insert the proper clutch alignment tool and insert new clutch disc over alignment tool.
13. Install new pressure plate. Torque bolts as instructed by manufacturer.
14. Remove alignment tool
15. Install new throw-out bearing on transmission clutch engagement lever arm.
16. Re-install transmission, turning tail flange as needed to get proper shaft to flywheel alignment. Push tranmission all the way forward. IF it doesn't go all the way, remove and inspect. You might have the wrong (too high) clutch pressure plate. Do NOT attempt to "suck" transmission ahead with transmission to engine bolts. You will break the bell housing and cry.
17. Install transmission to engine bolts (you remember where they all went, right?)
18. Reconnect transmission linkage as you had noted earlier (you did note how it was connected, right?)
19. Reconnect reverse light switch electrical connector
20. Reconnect clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line.
21. Bleed clutch slave cylinder by opening bleed valve and slowly depressing clutch pedal (two person job) until all air is out of the line (like bleeding brakes)
22. Reconnect drive shaft to transmission.
23. Reconnect exhaust system (you might need new cat to exhaust system bolts, especially if you cut them off).
24. Lower car. Start engine and check gear selection and clutch engagement.

The link above should have other hints.

UrS4boy

OR....

You can read this: http://12v.org/urs/ClutchReplacement.pdf

Kapn.K

Does anyone remove the engine, instead? Or is it half a dozen one way or 6 the other? Just wondering.

UrS4boy

LOL. NOOOOOO!! Exhaust off. Drive shaft off. Trans out. Replace clutch. Reverse.

Removing the engine to do a clutch is a totally unnecessary nightmare. It's like removing the dash to do the heater core. Dumb.

Kapn.K

Cool. I would never do it on a rwd car but some awds(like Subies) are real easy to remove the engine(my buddy just removed his legacy's in 2hours for the first time. Allegedly can be done in about 40min). I was under the impression that that's what the b5 guys do. If I had a lift, I wouldn't think of it but in the driveway with jack stands, I thought maybe it "could" be easier. Never done it but will probably have to in the future. Thanks again, Dave.

Steve