Window Relay Rapidly Clicking and Buzzing
08-30-2015, 11:50 AM
#1
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Window Relay Rapidly Clicking and Buzzing
I have had this problem for a couple of years and have gotten frustrated trying to figure it out. With EZ pass I don't have to open the window so I have been driving without the 329 module. I have bought two used 329 same thing with both clicking, buzzing, power window stay powered up without the key in the ignition. The popular info from SMJ has you "cut the yellow wire" to solve the problem but lose the Auto Window Close with the key. My wires on the V94 are Black/Yellow Brown/Yellow Black/ Blue White/Blue and Brown. I really don't want to cut any wires. He also has the V94 has been superseded to 4A0 862 257J instead of the 257B-D. This part is alot of $ and looks completely different. Has anyone used the 257J in a 92S4? Did it fix the relay clicking problem? I know this beat dead horse but and new info or any help would be a welcomed.
08-30-2015, 12:31 PM
#2
Not sure what the real problem is but you are talking about two different control modules. The 329 is 441959257B, control unit (not simply a relay) for electric windows and sliding roof operation. It is located in the driver's side kick panel. It was used in all C4s from 1991 (Europe) to 95 including the UrS4 and early UrS6 (but not the 95.5 UrS6). (Keep reading - more info under the photo - keep reading until you hit the happy face, then I shut up)
The 4A0862257J is the central locking control module, located in a foam box beside the battery under rear seat bottom.
In the beginning there was darkness and locked doors. Then there was the central locking pump, 4A0862257. 4A0862257 = pump with control module, dropped on Feb. 28, 1992 in favour of a 4A0862257B (not sure whether there ever was a 257A) 4A0862257B = pump with control module, dropped on May 31st, 1996 in favour of a <b>4A0862257D</b> . 4A0862257D = pump with control module for infrared remote "Hella" (I have two spares of these, one from a 93 UrS4 and one from a 93 100) - should be the same as the one in my 93 UrS4. - dropped on Feb. 28, 1994 in favour of a 4A0862257F. 4A0862257F = from March 1, 1994 to Feb. 28, 1996. Presumably still the infrared remote (which by the way was available in Europe even on the C4 A6 and the C4 UrS6s). Dropped on Feb. 28, 1996 in favour of a 4A0862257G. 4A0862257G = March 1, 1996 to...wait a minute...it was dropped on Feb. 28, 1996...even before it was started. So there is an issue with the date data. 4A0862257G was dropped in favour of a 4A0862257J. 4A0862257H = pump with control module (no mention of remote) "VD0". I am thinking this might be what my V8 avant has. <b>4A0862257J</b> = seems to be the only replacement pump left. It now shows in the C4 parts all the way back to 1991 (Europe A 100) = pump with control module for vehicles with anti-theft system for vehicles with infrared locking system. (No mention of VDO or Hella)
As for the general central locking control module wiring, it looks something like this schematic:
The yellow wire mentioned at SJM Autotechnik is T16/8, the connection between the central locking control module and the 329 window control module.
When is the last time you replaced your ignition switch? Broken ones cause all sorts of problems?
Here is a DIY with the PN:
http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIY.pdf
The 4A0862257J is the central locking control module, located in a foam box beside the battery under rear seat bottom.
In the beginning there was darkness and locked doors. Then there was the central locking pump, 4A0862257. 4A0862257 = pump with control module, dropped on Feb. 28, 1992 in favour of a 4A0862257B (not sure whether there ever was a 257A) 4A0862257B = pump with control module, dropped on May 31st, 1996 in favour of a <b>4A0862257D</b> . 4A0862257D = pump with control module for infrared remote "Hella" (I have two spares of these, one from a 93 UrS4 and one from a 93 100) - should be the same as the one in my 93 UrS4. - dropped on Feb. 28, 1994 in favour of a 4A0862257F. 4A0862257F = from March 1, 1994 to Feb. 28, 1996. Presumably still the infrared remote (which by the way was available in Europe even on the C4 A6 and the C4 UrS6s). Dropped on Feb. 28, 1996 in favour of a 4A0862257G. 4A0862257G = March 1, 1996 to...wait a minute...it was dropped on Feb. 28, 1996...even before it was started. So there is an issue with the date data. 4A0862257G was dropped in favour of a 4A0862257J. 4A0862257H = pump with control module (no mention of remote) "VD0". I am thinking this might be what my V8 avant has. <b>4A0862257J</b> = seems to be the only replacement pump left. It now shows in the C4 parts all the way back to 1991 (Europe A 100) = pump with control module for vehicles with anti-theft system for vehicles with infrared locking system. (No mention of VDO or Hella)
As for the general central locking control module wiring, it looks something like this schematic:
The yellow wire mentioned at SJM Autotechnik is T16/8, the connection between the central locking control module and the 329 window control module.
When is the last time you replaced your ignition switch? Broken ones cause all sorts of problems?
Here is a DIY with the PN:
http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIY.pdf
08-31-2015, 07:01 AM
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Thank you Dave, My car is a 1992 S4 and has 4A0 862 257B it also has the infared key that doesn't work. My wishful thinking is that the 257J would cure the 329 control clicking. I have replaced the ignition switch on 2013 and that fixed the wipers, climate control, and made the car drivable. The sun roof doesn't work and I thought maybe that has something to do with the problem.
08-31-2015, 08:42 AM
#4
Thank you Dave,
1. My car is a 1992 S4 and has 4A0 862 257B
2. It also has the infared key that doesn't work.
3. My wishful thinking is that the 257J would cure the 329 control clicking.
4. I have replaced the ignition switch on 2013 and that fixed the wipers, climate control, and made the car drivable.
5. The sun roof doesn't work and I thought maybe that has something to do with the problem.
1. My car is a 1992 S4 and has 4A0 862 257B
2. It also has the infared key that doesn't work.
3. My wishful thinking is that the 257J would cure the 329 control clicking.
4. I have replaced the ignition switch on 2013 and that fixed the wipers, climate control, and made the car drivable.
5. The sun roof doesn't work and I thought maybe that has something to do with the problem.
2. IR key might not work for several reasons. Could be batteries, programming or the IR source bulb:
Batteries (4) are Energizer 386/301, oriented as shown in the photo below.
Reprogramming the key, if/when required, involves have one key in the ignition, turned to ON/RUN (but not START) while the second key is used to manually lock and unlock the drivers door lock. If the car has been sitting for some time or you have to change the batteries, getting the remote to work again just requires that you lock and unlock the door manually once and then the key remote will "work" again. (The IR remote has a very limited range and is intereferred with by bright sunlight and fluorescent lights (e.g. in a parking garage). HTH
Sometimes the issue isn't batteries but the little Item 29 infra red bulb:
3. Yup. Definitely wishful thinking. More like
The only connection between the 257B and the 329 is that yellow wire that relates to the key in door window (and sunroof) closing function (T16/8) as discussed previously.
3 Plug Central Control Module Wiring Schematic. Note the T16/8 connection to the window control module:
4. 2013. Some replacement switches (brand name withheld) have been crap and have failed within 2 years (within 3 months, etc).
5. Sunroof not working definitely has something to do with the problem. The sunroof might be mechanically jammed and the clicking you here is the 329 controller trying to do its job but it cannot because the motor is tripping out.
Remove the control panel:
Remove the Allen-head tool:
Note the position of the sunroof and the drive motor marks. Disengage the red (Motor to sunroof drive) connector. Insert the allen head tool and see if you can get the sunroof to move. If not, you have found your problem.
Last edited by UrS4boy; 09-10-2015 at 09:45 AM.
07-29-2017, 02:10 AM
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1. 4A0862257B is basically the OE UrS4 central locking control module. Just because it was superceeded by the 257D, etc. , it doesn't necessarily mean that it was bad. My 93 UrS4 probably has a 257B. I scored 257Bs for back-up from 1993 and 1994 C4 Audi 100s at wrecking yards for about $25 each.
2. IR key might not work for several reasons. Could be batteries, programming or the IR source bulb:
Batteries (4) are Energizer 386/301, oriented as shown in the photo below.
Reprogramming the key, if/when required, involves have one key in the ignition, turned to ON/RUN (but not START) while the second key is used to manually lock and unlock the drivers door lock. If the car has been sitting for some time or you have to change the batteries, getting the remote to work again just requires that you lock and unlock the door manually once and then the key remote will "work" again. (The IR remote has a very limited range and is intereferred with by bright sunlight and fluorescent lights (e.g. in a parking garage). HTH
Sometimes the issue isn't batteries but the little Item 29 infra red bulb:
3. Yup. Definitely wishful thinking. More like
The only connection between the 257B and the 329 is that yellow wire that relates to the key in door window (and sunroof) closing function (T16/8) as discussed previously.
3 Plug Central Control Module Wiring Schematic. Note the T16/8 connection to the window control module:
4. 2013. Some replacement switches (brand name withheld) have been crap and have failed within 2 years (within 3 months, etc).
5. Sunroof not working definitely has something to do with the problem. The sunroof might be mechanically jammed and the clicking you here is the 329 controller trying to do its job but it cannot because the motor is tripping out.
Remove the control panel:
Remove the Allen-head tool:
Note the position of the sunroof and the drive motor marks. Disengage the red (Motor to sunroof drive) connector. Insert the allen head tool and see if you can get the sunroof to move. If not, you have found your problem.
2. IR key might not work for several reasons. Could be batteries, programming or the IR source bulb:
Batteries (4) are Energizer 386/301, oriented as shown in the photo below.
Reprogramming the key, if/when required, involves have one key in the ignition, turned to ON/RUN (but not START) while the second key is used to manually lock and unlock the drivers door lock. If the car has been sitting for some time or you have to change the batteries, getting the remote to work again just requires that you lock and unlock the door manually once and then the key remote will "work" again. (The IR remote has a very limited range and is intereferred with by bright sunlight and fluorescent lights (e.g. in a parking garage). HTH
Sometimes the issue isn't batteries but the little Item 29 infra red bulb:
3. Yup. Definitely wishful thinking. More like
The only connection between the 257B and the 329 is that yellow wire that relates to the key in door window (and sunroof) closing function (T16/8) as discussed previously.
3 Plug Central Control Module Wiring Schematic. Note the T16/8 connection to the window control module:
4. 2013. Some replacement switches (brand name withheld) have been crap and have failed within 2 years (within 3 months, etc).
5. Sunroof not working definitely has something to do with the problem. The sunroof might be mechanically jammed and the clicking you here is the 329 controller trying to do its job but it cannot because the motor is tripping out.
Remove the control panel:
Remove the Allen-head tool:
Note the position of the sunroof and the drive motor marks. Disengage the red (Motor to sunroof drive) connector. Insert the allen head tool and see if you can get the sunroof to move. If not, you have found your problem.
Hi!!! I was reading all this thread and I have a problem with IRDA in my A6 C4 from 1996. Trying programming the remote key something strange happens. I put the other key in the ignition switch and I can program it. The horn works and the remote key works one time closing, but when i put out the key in the ignition switch and try again nothing happens, seems like the central locking doesnt "save" the remote key. I change the ignition switch, try with another remote key and with another central locking but it didnt work. Any idea to try?? Thanks!!
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