RickM

I'll probably be using a clay bar on my wife's car this weekend, my first time using clay. I intend to follow with glaze and then Blitz Wax.

I know you have to keep the surface you're working on lubricated. Some car wash soap mixed with water seems to be the most cost-effective approach (detailing spray just seems like a very expensive way to go when you're doing a whole car).

<b>Question No. 1</b> concerns quantity of lubricant: Do you constantly sponge on the lubricant? Or is a fine sprayed-on mist better? I imagine you can have too little, but it seems to me you can never have too much, so I'm planning to just sponge it on as I'm working the clay bar. OK?

<b>Question No. 2</b>: How much pressure? Do you just gently glide the bar across the paint surface, letting the clay do the work, or do you actually apply firm pressure and "scrub"? Or a little of both? I probably sound like an idiot asking questions like this, but since clay presents as much potential for problems as it does benefits I want to be sure I don't screw it up.

<b>Question No. 3</b>: How much time? I'm thinking (ok, guessing) that with clay bar you aren't actually seeing the results as you work, so you have to just "know" when you've worked an area sufficiently. So do a couple of sweeps over a particular spot do it? Is there any way to know when an area has been sufficiently worked, or when it needs more? "Fingertip smoothness test" maybe? I'm doing an A6 wagon. What's your estimate on total time to clay it? For A4 owners who are responding, lemme say that in my experience the wagon takes between 30% and 50% longer to detail (wash, glaze, wax) than the A4 does. There's just a lot more sheetmetal there.

<b>Question No. 4</b>: Is glazing after clay strongly recommended, or should I just go straight to the wax? I know glaze is supposed to "feed" the paint, etc., but I also don't want to spend an hour or two glazing if I really don't have to. All opinions welcome.

Thanks!

MikekiM@PureMS

1 - I do sections at a time, with a spray bottle. Just spray the area once. If the clay bar starts to get stuck on the paint, apply more lubricant. A sponge sounds a little overkill, but certainly possible. Just be sure to wipe up with a cloth, or chamois right away to prevent spots.

2 - You'll feel it right away, and hear it. Apply slight pressure, maybe just the weight of your hand.

3 - It goes fairly quickly. Again, you'll hear, and feel the difference immediately, so you don't need to spend much time in each area. Simply squirt the water on, slide the clay around until you hear nothing, and feel nothing, then move on. My A4 takes about 30 minutes to clay.

4 - Glaze, or swirl remover is still recommended after, as it helps to remove some of the contaminates that clay leaves behind.

RKA

Although you can't see the contaminants, you'll feel the clay bar dragged over the lubricated paint at first. After each successive pass, it will glide smoother. My rule of thumb is to lubricate after each pass. I find the clay bar goes right down to the paint, leaving little lubrication behind after a first pass. I sponge on car wash soap, and when I'm done with a panel, I'll go over it with soap an water to remove any residue left behind from the clay bar (it does seem to leave a thin film behind, probably due to lack of lubrication in some parts). I also turn/knead the clay bar frequently. You'll see the grime build up on the bar pretty easily. Mother's clay bars are yellow, which allows you to see the contaminants quite easily. I'll spend about 2 hours doing my not-so-dirty A4.

S4Del

no matter how much lubricant you use if it is hot out, and the surface is hot.

It is much easier to work with when the car is cool.

Remember you can also Clay Bar the windows as well.

RickM

Thanks for the tips! Gonna try it this weekend.