For those with HID retro-kits, please enlighten me (Pun was SOO intended!)

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Old 02-05-2008, 08:12 AM
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Default For those with HID retro-kits, please enlighten me (Pun was SOO intended!)

<center><img src="http://www.retro-solutions.com/55watthighoutput_files/55wattkit.jpg"></center><p>I was thinking about upgrading to HID lighting since it's relatively cheap now. I've STFA, but most of the stuff is on how to retro-fit US housings with HID kits.

Since I know a few of you have done this already, can you please let me know your thoughts. Worth the upgrade/cost? Is the lighting that much better? How do I circumvent the DRL issue? Do I need a relay or any additional parts?

What about your ballast mounting positions? I know some of you just have them in the engine bay somewhere, but is there enough space for me to mount them on the bottom of the headlight housings? I'm just **** about the neatness of the engine bay (as some of you might already know).

And NO, I'm not gonna get E-codes.

The pic and link are for the kit that I'm thinking of getting. It was posted on the B5S4 forum as a pseudo GB last month. Had some pretty good reviews.

TIA<ul><li><a href="http://www.retro-solutions.com/audiworldGB.html">AW group buy kit.</a></li></ul>
Old 02-05-2008, 08:22 AM
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E-codes &gt;&gt;&gt; that.
Old 02-05-2008, 08:33 AM
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Default You thinking of 55W or 35W setup?

Won't 55W be too bright for oncoming drivers? And it won't cause too much of a load on the circuits? I thought 35W was the standard for HID's.
Old 02-05-2008, 08:34 AM
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Default I did mine with a McCulloch kit...I only had a minor hiccup with bridging the

109 (or 110) relay, but since I've seen it done, it's very easy.

So, to answer your questions:

1) Yes, absolutely worth the cost
2) Lighting is very significantly improved
3) A bit of time involved, (IT takes 10 minutes) - I take 2 hours - but easy.
4)No additional parts other that maybe some twist ties, tape and silicone sealant
5) You know me by now, "clean" install is more for you than me. However, ballasts can be installed around the hinge of the hood.
6) Apparently you can do that, however it may involve some dremmeling (which you're also good at).

Make sure you get good stuff. I've been running the McCullochs for a year and a half with few issues.
Old 02-05-2008, 08:36 AM
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Default Ok, to answer some of your q's...

Retro fitting is relatively easy. All you need to is get suitable fitment bulbs (H7 D2S) bulbs. The only trouble you may have the bulb socket which comes off of the ballast. Dependant on socket style, you may need to cut the housing cover to fit them through (I can provide pictures for you if necessary).

Now to position your ballast. There are cutout positions on the headlight housing on the underneath (yes on canadian headlights too). The only catch to this is that all ballast come in different sizes. Some are thin, some thick, some wide etc etc. You must make sure the dimensions of the ballast fit the cut out, as well as the thickness fits. (Again, I can provide pics if necessary)

To address light output, IMHO I would NEVER go back to halogen ever again. In fact, I had only owned my S4 before buying my hid parts. It is a drastic difference that once you have the chance to experience, you will not be able to return to halogen.


Anything I missed?
Old 02-05-2008, 08:50 AM
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Default I'm thinking 55w. Most of the reviews says it's not overly bright, especailly non-ecodes.

And as for the circuits, the kit comes with a lifetime warranty. So i'm not too worried.
Old 02-05-2008, 08:54 AM
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Default What about the DRL issue? Don't I have to disable them? Do I need a relay?

And pics would be really helpful. Would you happen to know the dimensions of the cutout underneath the halogen housing or would it be the same as the cutout for xenons. If it is the same, then this kit should fit with some minor modifiation.

Thanks for the help!
Old 02-05-2008, 08:56 AM
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LOL @ "5) You know me by now, "clean" install is more for you than me."
Old 02-05-2008, 08:57 AM
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B5 &gt;&gt;&gt;B6
Old 02-05-2008, 09:40 AM
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Default There's a work around to this

There is a relay that turns on the DRL. What we did was slide in a piece of electrical tape between the contact thus it prevented the DRL from coming on.


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