Tom Faust

A week or two ago I was followed home by an '82 Coupe. My boneyard has a 20V '91 90 Quattro. I was thinking the obvious. Swapping the entire harness looks like a lot of work. Jahvad tells me his system will operate as a "Stand alone" unit. Might be a simpler wiring job. I notice a lot of posts on DYI/FI problems and I am not sure what a 034 system would do for me on a N/A 20V. What does the list think?

Price is a factor. For the price of 034, there are a lot of options. For instance, the same yard will sell me the engine and transmission from a '02 300M for $100.00 more. Looks like it would fit.

Merkin

034 gives minimal gains for too much money on n/a engines

cuatrokoop

You could go for a Stage 1B/1C for several hundred dollars less. Also, you could then run whatever injectors and fuel rail you want, instead of the failure prone Hitachi injectors that Audi used. With no itty bitty MAF and new injectors you could easily get more than 164hp out of the 7A engine. With precise control over fuel/ignition, you could probably get close to 190hp (crank).

Think about this, Nate S. is running a 3.6L PT code V8 in his B3q sedan. Right around 244hp at the wheels. Stock injectors, stock cams, stock IM and EMs, but a really good fuel and ignition map got him an extra 30-50hp over the stock 250hp at the crank, depending on the driveline loss figure used. That tells you how conservative the factory maps are, in general. If he gets larger injectors, he'll probably go north of 300hp at the crank easily.

Tom Faust

A simpler wiring job is what made me think of it in the first place.

Then, there is the horsepower issue. I keep looking at that all aluminum Chrysler V6 at 250 bhp. To add to the knowledge base, if you are looking to cut down a factory harness to operate as a "stand alone" system, what you need is what is sometimes known as the "Engine Performance Wiring Diagram".
Not sure if Audi publishes one. It usualy appears in training manuals and shows only that wiring which effects engine performance. It is intended for "troubleshooting". But, if you cut away everything else, what you have is a "stand alone" harness.

cuatrokoop

The Mopar motor would take some pretty serious fab work to fit into the Coupe. Mounts, bell housing adapter, flywheel, then theres the wiring...

Tom Faust

Can't mix up my Coupe with my Quattro (they keep following me home). The Coupe is just FWD. Both the Audi and the Chrysler have North-South orientation of the engine. Not having a Quattro set up, I thought to transplant engine and transmission. My preliminary measurements, not sure when they will go any further, indicate that there might be some small oil pan interference. Assuming I could get everything into alignment, I thought I would just splice the drive axles. The six is 60 degree and fairly narrow. It is DOHC, but that puts the width up fairly high. My tape measure indicates that it is only 24" from the center of the axle to the nose of the front pulley.
Measurement indicates that the radiator could be moved to a conventional position. There might even be some weight loss.

All this started because I am not prepared to sacrifice the 20V in my sedan. I am told the junkyard 20V smokes and probably needs some rebuilding. Totaling that with its intial cost (not much), 034, and other smaller items, my eye began to wander. It fell on the Chrysler. It also fell on a V-6 B4 with the nose off. The mounts there looked as though they might be adaptable. Too much time on my hands I suppose.

Cold weather has prevented me from replacing the differential mount you sent me the write up on. I think I have hit on a method to avoid dropping the subframe. If it works, I'll let you know. I may just drop it and replace those mounts while I am there.

cuatrokoop

The 12v swap would be much easier to do than the Chrysler V6/trans. Could just grab the whole front clip and transplant the engine, wiring, ECU. There are some mods that can be done on the 12v to make it breath a LOT better, and get 200hp or more out of it. Torque will be pretty good too, they have a stock rating of 182-184lb-ft depending on the year. Plus, the 12v is very smooth, only thing better is the 200-230hp 30v engines for a daily driver.