10vT engine swap for B3 90 1989 20vQ

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Old 04-23-2005, 03:30 PM
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Default 10vT engine swap for B3 90 1989 20vQ

One of my friend's dad is a junkyard owner, he gets alot of old Audis. He told me that if I want to buy a whole car (it's easier to have a whole car when swaping cause of the harness, sensors....etc) to just let him know. So my question is: Which car should I look for, 5k, 100 or 200 (except the 200 20vTQ..:-( ) for a 10vT swap into my B3 90?

considering that the price will be the same for all 3 models, which swap would be the easiest? My biggest fear is the mounting of the engine, from what I've read, some of the 10vT engines are "bolt in" but not sure which ones.

My plan for this summer is to buy the car, remove the engine and all necessery part for the swap, than during winter I could clean, resotre and upgrade the engine and than nxt summer finish the swap. Is it resonable?

thanks
Old 04-24-2005, 06:41 AM
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Default i'd be lookin for an mc2 engine, but then run it with the mac11 ecu.

that way chips don't cost a small fortune.
Old 04-24-2005, 09:35 AM
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Is this 90 a Canadian car?
Old 04-24-2005, 10:40 AM
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Default yes and all the 10vT engine will come from a canadian car

Can this cause a problem, I know that sometimes I'm confused, seems like the CDN versions are not the same as the US models for the 90 and 5k models. If I'm not mistaken, I'm the only one who had to buy special rotors for my G60 front breake upgrade ( they were 276mm but 30mm offset instead of 25mm like every other Audi) also the original rotors are 256mm 30mm offset which are unique to the CDN models and cost 150$/ea!!!!
Old 04-25-2005, 03:54 AM
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Default Well, in hte US, in most states it's illegal to swap in an older motor, than the car itself.

Like, in the US, one can not swap a 1991 200 20v's motor into a 1995 90 quattro.
Old 04-25-2005, 09:12 PM
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Default on the b3 turbo swap subject...

I was just readin in on some old posts. Some of the main issues with putting an MC-1 or 2 in a B3 (besides fueling) is the stock MC downpipe not fitting and the tierod getting in the way? I already knew about the DP but can someone please explain the tierod thing to me? Thanks

As for you, I think your time is reasonable. Atleast you're not like "Yeah, I'll get it done in two weeks" hehe. I already have a running (but none driving) 200TQ Doner car in which I'll pull the engine in my coming 2 weeks off from school. I plan on intalling that into my 90Q with in the next year. I just finished a whole bunch of work on the car and want to enjoy it for a while before I take it off the road for the swap. The swap would include:

- 90Q 20V clutch disk (probably recommended to go bigger, but then you get into more money) I think it's 40mm vs the 10valves 38mm.
- Custom downpipe
- UrQ intercooler
- Megasquirt EFI

This would all be just to get it running and driving. I'm sure other issues would probably come up, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there
Glad to know there's yet another person planning a swap. For now I'm just collecting some parts Good luck to you!
Old 04-25-2005, 09:14 PM
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Default I'd do EFI while at it...

It's probably the same amount of work and money in the long run, rather than buying and fitting in all the UrQ junk.

So do you even have to chip the ecu with megasquirt?
Old 04-26-2005, 09:40 AM
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It would be a good idea to chip the ECU for the updated ignition maps.
Old 04-26-2005, 01:08 PM
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Default tierod...

The tierod hits the DP. I am using an MC1 downpipe on my 90q with a few washers under the passenger side motor mount. I am also using a 2B tierod that is bent to clear the downpipe. I'd pick up the tierod, it will rub otherwise.
Old 04-27-2005, 08:44 PM
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Default good plan..

on raising the engine instead of getting into that DP mess. What do you mean by 2B tierod?
Thanks


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