IdahoDoug

Hi all. First post and I'll yak more about the remarkable way I ended up with this remarkable car, but I have a couple immediate needs on servicing it.

I am looking for the correct system capacity to flush and refill the powersteering/brake booster hydraulic pump that is unique to the 20V. Various websites are in error and disagreement. I would like to flush and fill it as it is making noise as if it has bubbles. I'll thank anyone for pointing out any common leaks on this system I might deal with at the same time if that's the case. Otherwise I'll focus on getting fresh fluid in it right away. Since it's unique to the 20V I have a feeling it would be an expensive mistake to let it keep yowling. I just got it 48 hours ago and this is my first priority.

Also, is the filter on the tank lid cleanable or do I need to get a new one? Source or P/N? Thanks!

Thank you in advance.

IdahoDoug

IdahoDoug

Wow. 50 views and not a comment. I'm never gonna get this thing squared away at that rate!! Help a new Quattro 5 cylinder guy out - I've got the day off Thursday and am planning to mess with this great little car much of the day but cannot find a Bentley manual, either. I'm also planning to pull the injectors to have them professionally cleaned and take the alternator out and bring it to a shop for new brushes and bearings. Thanks in advance for any help.

DougM

IdahoDoug

OK, so this is going to be a one man thread. I managed to get a quart of fresh into it by sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir and then having my young son turn the wheel back and forth with the engine off and front wheels off the ground. The fresh quart and the bleed seem to have cleared the bubbles and it is silent again. I have never seen such dirty hydraulic fluid. I think I'll run it a month and do it over again. I'm using the synthetic G fluid which is kinda spendy, but not compared to a pump rebuild.

So, I guess the inline 5s are on a different forum, then. Hmmmm.

Doug

IdahoDoug

Continuing with the one man thread theme, I'm going to change the title of the thread if I can to basically document the mechanical freshening of a nicely kept 20V I just bought. I'm former vehicle developer and with my projects always focus on maximum mechanical integrity before lifting a finger on the cosmetic side. So perhaps this thread will help others deal with their 20V vehicles.

Yesterday I pulled the original Hitachi injectors (you can see the light blue labels with a flashlight if you're curious about yours) to take to Mr Injector for cleaning. When the vehicle was running I took a stethescope and listened to each injector. Two of them were making a distinct clacking (vs quiet clicking) anybody could discern. Doing some research and talking with a 20V expert I realized these two were probably failing and no point in cleaning and that a company called 034 has a nice injector upgrade kit for $400. At $200 shipped for the Hitachi replacements the decision was a no brainer and I ordered it last night. Clean, new injectors vs cleaned old injectors that still could fail, plus 10more hp with the newer design Bosch injectors.

Also pulled the alternator to have it refreshed at a local shop. New brushes, regulator and bearings. Many folks replace these but if you have the original Bosch consider finding a local auto electric shop that can do it for you. Last time I did this on a Vanagon Syncro it cost me $45 vs $350 for a crappy aftermarket. The Bosch is a very high quality unit and designed to be simply rebuilt - don't toss them. Place a piece of cardboard against the A/C radiator fins and some jiggling will let it drop right out the bottom without removing anything. Get the wires off before unfastening it.

Today I'll be pulling the intake manifold, then the valve cover. I went to pull the spark plugs and found they had oil sitting down in their holes so I stopped. If you've ever pulled your plugs and been horrified how wet and oily they were, it was likely merely oil dripping from the valve covers and you didn't look down the holes before pulling the plugs (who does?). So, look down there first. If you have oil down there don't panic, it's not a major engine problem. The spark plug tubes have seals that eventually dry out and allow oil into this space. They get replace along with the valve cover gaskets. A couple of mine had enough oil I could only see the spark plug tip and letting that much oil get into the cylinder could result in harming the catalytic converter and a bunch of alarming smoke when you restart after putting new plugs in.

I'm also going to replace the timing belt, water pump and accessory belts. The vehicle's documentation shows it was replaced just shy of 60k ago so it's time. Would be a shame to be enjoying driving this unique vehicle and have the belt break - destroys the valves and essentially ends the engine's life for most people as its an "interference" design.

I'm also replacing the cam seal, crank seal, fuel filter, air filter, cleaning the MAF/ISC,/intake, dist. cap, rotor, plugs and a few other sundry items to essentially freshen and baseline the old girl. So stay tuned if you have a 20V or i5 you'd like to freshen.

Battery. The stock battery is an MT-91. They're outrageously expensive ($130 ish) and that bothered me in a world where you can buy a nice one for $85 or so. I just replaced one in my other vehicle that's a WalMart MAXX Consumer's Reports rated at the top. It lasted 7 years and cost $80. So I went to Wally World, ruler in hand and found their Group 41 might fit. Brought it home and it indeed fits perfectly - perfectly! A bit of gentle jiggling to get the rear lip under the rear retainer, then installed the front battery retainer hold down and for $85 I have a top rated battery in place. If you live up north get the 41N which has heavier plates and some features to last better in a cold climate. There is also a 41S version and I'm sure you can figure what that is.

I have the car a foot off the ground so I can slide around comfortably. It's on 4 heavy duty jackstands for safety. Sprayed PB Blaster on all the brake caliper bleeders as I know I'll also be bleeding the brake/clutch fluid soon and its nice not to fight those. I also sprayed the parking brake lever pivots as I've heard they can be problematic if they get rusty. I'll be tightening up the parking brake a bit later.

What else? Engine oil has been draining for a few days. I like to change it hot and when possible let the last dregs come out. New Wix (at NAPA) filter and I'm going to use synthetic T6 5-40 oil which is sitting next to the Quattro to fill after I get the timing belt/valve cover service completed. Then I'll drain and fill all the diffs. Probably use regular oil for a few months, then after the fresh gear oil has loosened any deposits I'll switch to synthetic for the long haul.

It has a correct Audi windshield in great shape with the antenna wires molded into it, so I'll be installing a protective clear windshield armor from ClearPlex. I have the feeling it would be frightfully expensive to replace and we don't use salt up here - instead they use traction sand which chips windshields regularly.

Off to work for a bit, then tackling the intake manifold and valve cover...Thanks for reading.

Doug

IdahoDoug

Alternator back from shop. New brushes, commutater ring, voltage reg and bearings - all Bosch - for $119. Totally cleaned outside as well. Astro Electric in Post Falls, Idaho. Didn't do anything else today, but parts are arriving in boxes stacking up next to the Quattro and it's killing me.

DougM