allroad(s) lead 2Gavin

I have been doing alot of work on my wife's 4 Cyl. 4000S. I have been unable to eliminate the check engine light from coming on after running a little while. I have replaced the Distruibutor cap, rotor, cables, spark plugs, filters, and the oxygen sensor. The light will continue to come on after driving the car a little.
It does sound like there is some engine knock caused by timing and am unsure if the knock sensor is bad, could this be causing my check engine light troubles?

Could it possibly be a firing order issue? According to a previous post the #1 cyl is towards the front, however checking my vehicle the firing order seems to be 1-3-4-2 and the #1 seems to be the one closest to the transmission, in other words, towards the back of the vehicle (closest to the firewall). Can anyone confirm this?

Any suggestions is appreciated.

Thanks

QCRAZY

You could also check your charcoal canister(if a 4000 has one)!! When they get water in them or crack they will cause a check engine light to come on when sitting in one place for a while(also can get a slight gas odor). Usually they go off once you resume moving but not always. They also cause a slightly rougher idle when bad.

Just a thought!!!
Good Luck
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Andrew
90 80Q
91 90
95 90Q

eharleq

The OBD1 check engine light is soley dependant on the ecu's check of the 02 sensor. The sensor, wires, or ecu are the only real factors. There *may* be a systems check on the richness (and if this doesn't change gives the light-I thought that was only obd2). What do the plugs and old sensor look like?

It certainly could be running very rich, but you could tell this in a second from the idle/rev/plugs.

The order numbers are stamped on the block with indication of cyl.1

The knock sensor just retards timing. Check the timing and then rap the block next to the sensor to test. This should be fixed first. Is the engine all carboned up or are you running low octane gas?