Dean

So Far I love them, and that was just going o the grocery store! (Nice twisty roads in my neighborhood)<p>Black looks great in a Silver/Opal car. (The raised lettering is Grey/Silver so it matches nicely)<p>FAQ Comments/updates. (These are my observations, follow all manufacturers instructions and warnings! Follow my comments at your own risk.)<p>I did both sides, so the passenger side stuff is all new…<p>Take your time. Plan your bracket bends, and belt paths carefully. (I only had to bend the two inside rear bracket, but more on that latter)<p>Remember the rear belts are not going to lay on the seat and go forward, they go up at about a 35-55 degree angle depending on front seat location! Think about this when figuring out which way you are going to make your bends, it affect how the belts curve!<p>Belts do not stay in their retracted positions! Move them through there full range while doing your planning!<p>Corollary to above: Belts swivel in their bracket eyelets. This gives you options as to which way you aim them.<p>Mark your bends in the car during planning, and then make your bends outside the car on a vise if possible. you will get better angles, where you wanted them!<p>Loosen the rear straps almost all the way before starting to install. It's just easier to do when you can hang onto all the pieces in your lap.<p>I used all 4 factory locations, The front inside ones aren’t two bad, 15 minutes each, and I didn’t even unhook the wring harness to my heated MANUAL seats.<p>Rear points:<p>Follow the FAQ for rear positions with the following caveats.<p>The inside bolt on the rear passenger side is a BITCH! The driver’s is a bit easier. Do them before the outsides, and bend the bracket on a vise before installing. The bends needs to be as close to the hole as possible while still clearing the bolt/washer, especially on the passenger side because of the center belt retractor being so bulky. On the passenger side, the bracket will fit snugly between the two arms of the passenger side buckle when positioned properly. I used the slightly longer bolt in the kit for these points, it made it easier to start the threads, and made the full 9 turns recommended in the documentation.<p>Don’t put the seat back in until done with the front points!<p>Front outside points: <p>FAQ is good, but 2 comments.<p>Remove the screw from the door sill trim under the back seat and pull up to dislodge the metal clips, and then free the rear of the trim at the B pillar by pulling it gently toward the center of the car. I didn’t do this on the drivers side, and snapped the a small corner off the trim at the rear of the B Pillar.<p>I pointed the harness bracket so it aimed out the front of the opening for the belts, and the stock straight up. This allows them both to clear each other when worn.<p>Front Inside points. (Worth doing in my opinion, no extra movement/play because of the second buckle, and still stowable!)<p>I have Manual seats. Power seats may need to unplug wires, etc… I didn’t, you may want to.<p>Put some paper down in the rear foot well, the slides are greased!<p>Get the plastic covers off of the rear tracks. <p>My front clip just needed a squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers and came right out.<p>Headrests all the way down!<p>Slide it back and tilt it out the rear door. (Ok, it takes a bit of wrestling to get it out of the track, but not to much. Worst part is making sure the sliders don’t catch the carpet as the come out of the slides.)<p>Twist the slider down away from the seat. You can’t get to the bolt otherwise. You may need to bend the stock belt slightly to clear the seat side plastic.<p>The stock buckle pivots on a smooth portion of this bolt, so I put the harness bracket on the inside. The bump that used to restrict how far the stock buckle pivot is right smack in the middle of where I ran the harness bracket. Put a nice little dimple in the bracket while tightening, but a great reference point.<p>Twist the slider back, and Put it all back together!<p>Enjoy, and drive safely.<br>