Pulled the trigger on the E36 (my new track ride)
05-21-2008, 06:10 AM
#22
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Re: Thanks for the insight. Looking for shocks (hopefully adjustable)
the JRZ's and motons are adjustable...both companies have double and triple adjustable shocks...if you are doing any street driving, i would stick with JRZ RS's or moton club sports (both double adjustable)...
both have enough adjustment range that you could get a liveable ride on the street and still get good performance out of them on the track...
i have moton club sports on my e46 m3 (found a deal i couldnt pass up) which i use on the street and track...not daily driven though...i run fairly high spring rates but the car isn't too bad on the street (it's firm but not overly harsh, imo)...i can add 2 clicks of rebound and compression and the car is pretty amazing (for a heavy pig of a street car) on the track...
also, it's worth noting ride harshness is very relative...what some people think is ok, others might not be able to tolerate on the street
both have enough adjustment range that you could get a liveable ride on the street and still get good performance out of them on the track...
i have moton club sports on my e46 m3 (found a deal i couldnt pass up) which i use on the street and track...not daily driven though...i run fairly high spring rates but the car isn't too bad on the street (it's firm but not overly harsh, imo)...i can add 2 clicks of rebound and compression and the car is pretty amazing (for a heavy pig of a street car) on the track...
also, it's worth noting ride harshness is very relative...what some people think is ok, others might not be able to tolerate on the street
05-21-2008, 06:13 AM
#23
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not cheap for sure...
but worth it...i upgraded from advance design shocks (supposed to be good non-remote res race shocks) to the JRZ's and was amazed by the difference...in performance, tunability, and durability
the price jump was about 1800 for the AD's to about 3k for the JRZ's...
the price jump was about 1800 for the AD's to about 3k for the JRZ's...
05-21-2008, 06:17 AM
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Re: another question (if you don't mind)?
un stagger the wheels...you can run 245 or 255 (depending on the tire) at all 4 corners...you may end up having to do some fender rolling once you start cramming 245 or 255 R-comps under there though...
ex. i run 17x9 wheels (ssr comps or d-force ltw's) at all 4 corners...245/40/17 r-comps (hankook z214) all around...i use 15mm spacers up front and 5mm out back...
ex. i run 17x9 wheels (ssr comps or d-force ltw's) at all 4 corners...245/40/17 r-comps (hankook z214) all around...i use 15mm spacers up front and 5mm out back...
05-21-2008, 06:26 AM
#26
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I'll go with your advice (looks like I'll be a bit poorer, no big)
may take a few months to accumulate the required $$$$.
get the right product the 1st time!
cheers,
Peter
get the right product the 1st time!
cheers,
Peter
05-21-2008, 06:28 AM
#28
I leaned so badly, I popped my front swaybar out of its end link.
<center><img src="http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p11/gcirillo/VIR%202007/newsig.jpg?t=1211379870"></center><p>
05-21-2008, 06:37 AM
#29
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Re: spring rates?
you'll need to decide what spring rates you want to run...if you get the kit from bimmerworld, they will be able to assist you with this...
i run spring rates in the ball park of 800-1000 in-lbs on my race car but you'll want them to be considerably softer on a street driven car...
i run spring rates in the ball park of 800-1000 in-lbs on my race car but you'll want them to be considerably softer on a street driven car...