Pat-SoCal

Damn... for now maybe fikse is the best option.

Those are some Pimpin' wheels though! If you DO in fact figure out how to make that work, let me know. Or if you think you may have figured it out, let me know and I'll go find some al. uprights and new hubs so I can be the guine pig.

ryoung

We have similar brake set-ups and pad preferences. I'm running an Alcon 6-pot in the front with a 355mm rotor and the stock rear caliper with a 298mm rotor. Also like you, I prefer a more aggressive rear pad to shift bias back a bit.

On the street I run either the

- Pagid RS4-2 blue front and Pagid RS4-4 Orange rear, or
- Ferodo DS2500 front and Ferodo DS3000 rear

On track, I run

- Pagid RS14 Black front and Ferodo DS3000 rear

To get a firmer pedal on the track, I can run more aggressive pads in the front (Ferodo DS3000 Plus, Pagid RS15 Grey, Cobalt V specVR, etc), but then I need a much more aggressive rear pad than the Ferodo DS3000 to maintain bias. Do you know of one?

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/alconta6_a.jpg">

ryans4

...after seeing it done on a couple cars, it sucks.

the lower ball joint is a serious pain to get off, I don't know if you need a special tool or something?, you need new control arms as well. The arms plus the bearings are also a pain to source.

I think the advantage is the bearing is in a cage, so that's cool.

But hey, i think you save like 7 to 10 lbs.

I'd save that upgrade for last if I were you. Have you had your Torsen rebuilt to 5:1 ratio? That's cheap grip right there.

I'll email the Matrix guys and see what they did and how much it sucked.

ryans4

...but i've not seen them sold in the US or if they are worth the money to get them here.

I'm not sure how that measures up against the Ferodo DS3000.

Are you seeing decent temps in your S8 on the rear discs?

When I had the 280mm rear discs (two piece) I was getting around 650 F once I got back to the pits (sorry, no heat probes and data aq. on the street car).

Or do you want more pad to shift more bias rear?

I know your setup well Randy, I'm the same Ryan from STaSIS.

FYI i'm running the Monobloc 6 caliper and an SBS Mid compound (of 3).

Pat-SoCal

I just replaced my control arms with new factory replacements with spherical bearings courtesy Istook Motorsports. They weren't that hard to get off so I don't forsee a problem with the upright...

I'm undecided on the center diff. I have that rear LSD that you sold me from Stasis so I plan on running that.

Pat-SoCal

I'll take your master cylinder :P

ryans4

the lower arms are specific to the upright I thought? So the Aluminum uprights take a different lower control arm part # than the steel uprights.

Maybe I was hearing wrong. Either way, sounds like a good thing.

The center diff makes sense to me, I give it the big thumbs up of approval. Really helps dial out understeer on throttle. Are you getting any front wheel spin now?

Pat-SoCal

It's just a matter of getting the different upper arms though, right? I thought the lowers are still the same. Either way you're correct on the MY difference.

I'm not getting any front wheel spin right now; the car hooks pretty damn hard. Although I'll be putting a more serious alignment on the car and I may have some trouble when that happens. Right now it's imperative that I get that rear LSD in the car because with the big bar and big rear spring rates, I get a little tire shudder from the inside rear right when I get into the throttle in those really tight corners (coming out of 11 at sears).

I dunno... it's going to take a lot of hours to sort through.

ryans4

...call Paul at STaSIS and talk to him about the rear LSD before you put it in.

You bought that a while ago, and I *think* the STaSIS guys have been playing around with more preload and plate stuff lately. They may have a more trick setup that they can offload before you install the unit and make it a huge hassle to change the thing.

At the same time, you can ask him about the center. Last I talked with him they just go done doing some testing on a project car, and he may have some good insight for you. Given the Time Trial stuff you have lined up, I'm sure he'd like to see your car do well with any STaSIS product on it.

He'll talk you into the center rebuild for sure though I'm telling you that right now.


As for the lower arms, I think part on the upgright where the lowe arms connect is different size for Al vs. Steel. Hence different lower arms, but someone smarter than I will have to confirm this.

Pat-SoCal

I called on the LSD and nobody was around to chat. I'm not going to be sold on the center diff. until I have reason to be. In my opinion, if it were a 1:1 locked ratio, that'd be great. The open diff. in the front will keep my turn in characteristics.