Audi A6 FS: 370mm Alcon / Stasis Front Big Brake Kit! Allroad BBK
02-18-2018, 10:31 PM
#22
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
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This is one of the biggest and best BBK ever created for Audi's! It's no longer offered, so grab up this offer while you can because the opportunity doesn't come around too often! Original retail price of $3900! Will 100% fit 2.7T allroad's, and based on the info that I just got from JHM over the phone, it should also fit:
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
02-20-2018, 08:18 PM
#23
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
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This is one of the biggest and best BBK ever created for Audi's! It's no longer offered, so grab up this offer while you can because the opportunity doesn't come around too often! Original retail price of $3900! Will 100% fit 2.7T allroad's, and based on the info that I just got from JHM over the phone, it should also fit:
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
everything works. 18" wheels. I've always loved the Allroad
Nice car for an Allroad with your 3100 dollar kit?
02-20-2018, 08:21 PM
#24
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is one of the biggest and best BBK ever created for Audi's! It's no longer offered, so grab up this offer while you can because the opportunity doesn't come around too often! Original retail price of $3900! Will 100% fit 2.7T allroad's, and based on the info that I just got from JHM over the phone, it should also fit:
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
2000-2002 Audi B5 S4's
2000-2002 Audi B5 RS4's
2000-2004 Audi C5 A6 2.7T's
2000-2005 Audi C5 Allroad 2.7T's
2005 Audi C5 Allroad 4.2L V8
I cannot guarantee it'll fit the B5's and A6's but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can confirm that in addition to the confirmation I got from JHM that all the front ends of these cars are the same. They sell one single kit for all these cars, so I don't see why this Stasis kit would be any different.
Kit includes:
-Alcon 6 piston Monobloc calipers that provide extreme stiffness thanks to the one piece cast design and cast in stiffening bridge. FULLY REBUILT 0 miles ago! - $2000 value new, I just spent $1180 rebuilding them
- 370mm (14.56") x 32mm thick Alcon rotors that feature excellent metallurgy and airflow design, fitted with Stasis' floating system to all aluminum hats to eliminate any possibility of warping as well as provide a lightweight overall system.
-Stasis floating reusable aluminum hats with reusable hardware ( I upgraded a few years ago)
- Stasis all aluminum mounting brackets
-Brand new in the box Hawk HPS pads ($200 value) - 0 miles
- Goodridge coated stainless steel braided lines
-All mounting hardware
Kit benefits:
-This kit WILL fit under some 18" wheels!!! I run 18" Audi S8 Avus II's in the winter and they fit (just barely) The pictures shown with the black Oz's are 19"
-This is essentially an Indy car front brake setup. Obviously the Indy cars are going to use a lot more exotic materials, but the design is the same
-Offers the ultimate in stopping ability, excellent pedal feel and modulation ability and extremely long service life!
-No more fade - Higher heat absorption and dispersion for shorter stops, turn after turn.
-No warping - Specially designed two-piece floating rotors for quiet, warp-free performance.
-Quicker reaction time - Short consistent pedal travel can save your life in a panic situation.
-Improved pedal feel - Firm confidence-inspiring brake pedal due to ultra-stiff calipers, differential piston sizing and stainless steel braided lines.
-Less weight - Enables shorter stops, quicker acceleration, improved steering feel and handling.
-Lower long-term maintenance costs - Cutting-edge design in a durable, low-cost system.
-Compatibility and ease of installation - Compatible with ABS and traction control systems with brake bias designed to ensure ultimate gripping power
Notes:
There are a couple small issues.
1) As you can see in the picture, the rubber coating on the brake lines has worn off in a couple of places. The actual SS brake line is perfectly fine though!
2) The bolts that connect the Alcon calipers to the Stasis mounting brackets are stuck in there damn good! I don't know what kind of loctite the P.O. used when originally mounting these, but I can't get them off. You don't need to, but I'm just being 100% transparent (no surprises)
3)The rotor rings are nearly worn out. Could you use them for a little while probably, but I wouldn't recommend it. Alconkits.com sells 2 different options (see links below) for $1079 to $1299 per pair.
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Turbulator Feature
STaSIS Replacements : Alcon Stasis 370mm x 32mm Discs (Pair) Non-Turbulator
I just sent the calipers for a full spared-no-expense rebuild at HRPWorld, who was recommended by Alcon. So these calipers are now essentially brand new again. Everything was replaced and they are good for another 100k miles. The calipers sell for $1000usd each, I just spent $1180 on rebuilding them. Ouch. My loss is your gain.
So $2100usd shipped for what I have, plus $1079 for rotor rings, and you've got an absolutely brand new, completely BADASS and HUGE BBK that's going to last you many many miles for $3179. The cost of this kit is high up front, but it lasts far longer than other cheaper BBK's, so in the long run this kit ends up costing the same or less to run than many of the much smaller 350mm bbk's on the market. I will ship this kit at my expense to Canada/ USA.
The complete kit
Attachment 75155
Under 19's
Attachment 75156
Attachment 75157
Attachment 75158
Close up under the 19's
Attachment 75159
The SS brake line I mentioned above
Attachment 75160
Close up's of the calipers
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75161
Attachment 75163
Attachment 75164
Attachment 75165
Full kit again with the rotors flipped around
Attachment 75166
everything works. 18" wheels. I've always loved the Allroad
Nice car for an Allroad with your 3100 dollar kit? How do I post pics?
08-16-2018, 11:28 AM
#27
I recently did this job, following these instructions. Amazing write up, as many have posted. I'm didn't read all the posts, but I have a few pieces of information that may be of interest.
First is that, on my car anyway, the cap for the crankshaft lock tool location requires an 8mm allen driver. Once it's located and the bolt for the lines are removed, put a bunch of extenders together and get that tool in there. However, the end needs a universal joint. The angle is about 10 degrees up, and 5 to 10 degrees to the right. The only way I could get it to work is if I wrapped the universal with a lot of electrical tape. I tried various incorrect approaches and could have stripped the nut which would have been quite bad, so hopefully this helps someone. The crankshaft lock tool itself was quite heavy, and so not only did I have to wrap the joint, I then wrapped tape on one side of the tool, bent the universal joint, and then taped a buttress to the extender. After about 20 attempts, I was able to get the tool to thread into the hole. Fingertip pressure only... can't strip those threads. This may not be good to advertise, but removing that cap and getting the lock tool in took about 2 hours. I think the lock tool didn't have great threads to start, but it worked in the end. Don't use any leverage trying to get it to push into the threads.
Next was the removing of the cam sprockets. I went to OReilly and bought part number W136P, a 4 inch Performance Tool Gear Puller for $14.99. It worked flawlessly on both gears.
Lastly is the order of belt tightening... I must have read that 10 times trying to figure out what was going on. I'm talking about where on one side of the crank you apply tension twice, and the go to the other side and apply tension there, and then tighten and release the pin to finish. I kept wondering how that would work because the belt is still loose. Well, yes, it stays loose. What is happening is that the belt on the left side (of what you're looking at... passenger side) of the crank is applied pressure so that the belt is snug all the way around. Especially on the other (drivers) side. Then on the driver's side, it is tensioned up and tightened in place. Then the pin is released and hopefully the 5mm gap is maintained. My low range torque wrench only worked for tightening (argh) and not moving counter-clockwise, so I used a scale and tried to get a constant pressure pushing in the normal tightening direction of the torque wrench. Then I applied that in a CCW direction and tightened it up. Unfortunately, it only had a 3mm gap after turning the crank 2 revs, so I had to do it again. The thing is... the less pressure you apply on the belt, the more gap you'll get in the end. Because of the effort to put the locking pin in, I did this without the crank locked (but FOR SURE the cams were locked again) so it was a bit spooky but it all worked out. One trick I learned in all this was to turn the crank (which no longer has the accessory belt to the alternator to use), I used the old timing belt and wrapped it around the crank and doubled it over itself so it wouldn't slip... then PULL with left hand and help things with the right hand pushing on the crank. It moved fairly easily this way.
There is a web site out there with some of the repair manual scanned. Can't remember it but that's what The Google is for. It had some of the required torque specs. One thing I noticed was that there are a lot of people saying the water pump bolt torque values and they are quoting too low a number. It's all at home, so I'll try to update these later. But I wanted to share the above info.
I bought this car with it needing a timing belt replaced. So I drove it into the garage and started on it. Quite the initiation.
First is that, on my car anyway, the cap for the crankshaft lock tool location requires an 8mm allen driver. Once it's located and the bolt for the lines are removed, put a bunch of extenders together and get that tool in there. However, the end needs a universal joint. The angle is about 10 degrees up, and 5 to 10 degrees to the right. The only way I could get it to work is if I wrapped the universal with a lot of electrical tape. I tried various incorrect approaches and could have stripped the nut which would have been quite bad, so hopefully this helps someone. The crankshaft lock tool itself was quite heavy, and so not only did I have to wrap the joint, I then wrapped tape on one side of the tool, bent the universal joint, and then taped a buttress to the extender. After about 20 attempts, I was able to get the tool to thread into the hole. Fingertip pressure only... can't strip those threads. This may not be good to advertise, but removing that cap and getting the lock tool in took about 2 hours. I think the lock tool didn't have great threads to start, but it worked in the end. Don't use any leverage trying to get it to push into the threads.
Next was the removing of the cam sprockets. I went to OReilly and bought part number W136P, a 4 inch Performance Tool Gear Puller for $14.99. It worked flawlessly on both gears.
Lastly is the order of belt tightening... I must have read that 10 times trying to figure out what was going on. I'm talking about where on one side of the crank you apply tension twice, and the go to the other side and apply tension there, and then tighten and release the pin to finish. I kept wondering how that would work because the belt is still loose. Well, yes, it stays loose. What is happening is that the belt on the left side (of what you're looking at... passenger side) of the crank is applied pressure so that the belt is snug all the way around. Especially on the other (drivers) side. Then on the driver's side, it is tensioned up and tightened in place. Then the pin is released and hopefully the 5mm gap is maintained. My low range torque wrench only worked for tightening (argh) and not moving counter-clockwise, so I used a scale and tried to get a constant pressure pushing in the normal tightening direction of the torque wrench. Then I applied that in a CCW direction and tightened it up. Unfortunately, it only had a 3mm gap after turning the crank 2 revs, so I had to do it again. The thing is... the less pressure you apply on the belt, the more gap you'll get in the end. Because of the effort to put the locking pin in, I did this without the crank locked (but FOR SURE the cams were locked again) so it was a bit spooky but it all worked out. One trick I learned in all this was to turn the crank (which no longer has the accessory belt to the alternator to use), I used the old timing belt and wrapped it around the crank and doubled it over itself so it wouldn't slip... then PULL with left hand and help things with the right hand pushing on the crank. It moved fairly easily this way.
There is a web site out there with some of the repair manual scanned. Can't remember it but that's what The Google is for. It had some of the required torque specs. One thing I noticed was that there are a lot of people saying the water pump bolt torque values and they are quoting too low a number. It's all at home, so I'll try to update these later. But I wanted to share the above info.
I bought this car with it needing a timing belt replaced. So I drove it into the garage and started on it. Quite the initiation.
10-23-2018, 03:52 PM
#30
