2.0 Conversion Phase 1: teardown and compare (Long and LOTS of pics)
03-02-2002, 10:12 PM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2.0 Conversion Phase 1: teardown and compare (Long and LOTS of pics)
First, a little background:
I bought an "ABA" 2.0 short block out of a 94 VW Golf for $320 shipped. Going price seems to be between $300-$600. This is a popular motor swap for the VW guys, so it may be hard to find a motor as cheap as I did.
Here are the main reasons I chose this motor:
1. It's a tall deck block, 16.5mm longer than a regular 1.8 or 2.0 This allows longer rods, 159mm vs. 144mm
2. Impulse wheel - the crank trigger wheel required in order to use the stock ECU (most aftermarket Engine Management Systems require a crank trigger anyways)
3. Forged crank and oil squirters - All ABA blocks built from 93 to 95 have forged cranks and oil squirters. 96 and up have cast cranks and no oil squirters - or so I've been told. I think this means 94-96 Golfs and Jettas are the ones to get the motors from. There are other 2.0 forged cranks available, but they dont have an impulse wheel. I don't know if it's possible to machine a crank to fit an impulse wheel.
I did run into a couple snags, which I'll get to later, first here are the pics of the VW ABA motor being disassembled:
As received:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_wrap_lo.jpg">
Side shot:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_side_lo.jpg">
Identifying label:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_id_lo.jpg">
Guts removed:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_bare_bot_lo.jpg">
Close-up of oil squirters:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_squirt_lo.jpg">
Engine side:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_side_bare_lo.jpg">
Engine front:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_front_bare_lo.jpg">
92.8mm crank, notice the crank trigger wheel:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_crank_lo.jpg">
Rod and piston:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_rod_lo.jpg">
Some test fitting/comparison pics:
2.0 Windage tray:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_tray_lo.jpg">
The 1.8T windage tray:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_bot_lo.jpg">
CC'ing the 2.0 piston dish:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_cc_lo.jpg">
Testing to make sure the APR flywheel fits:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_crank_flywheel_lo.jpg">
Comparing the windage trays and oil pumps (1.8T on the right):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_baffle_match_lo.jpg">
So far, so good, right? Well, there are a couple snags:
Snag #1:
The 20V head has 5 oil drain-back holes on the exhaust side of the head. The 2.0 block only has 2.
20V head, notice the 5 big holes at the top of the head:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_head_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 engine top, notice the 5 holes (bottom):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_top_lo.jpg">
The 2.0 engine top, notice the lack of 5 holes (top):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_top_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 head gasket on the 2.0 motor:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_head_match_lo.jpg">
Snag #2:
The transmission in the A4 bolts to the bottom of the oil pan. Because of this, there are 4 big bolts towards the the trans end for added support. The 2.0 does not have these holes.
1.8 bottom, notice the 4 holes, 2 in the back, 2 towards the middle:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_bot2_lo.jpg">
2.0 bottom, notice the lack of 4 holes:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_bot_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 pan gasket on the 2.0:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_pan_match_lo.jpg">
Snag #3:
The 1.8T has a coolant inlet going into the side of the block for the turbo coolant return line.
The 2.0 does not have this.
Measurements:
The 1.8 has a 81.0mm bore and 86.4mm stroke to get 1.781 liters
The 2.0 has a 82.5mm bore and 92.8mm stroke to get 1.984 liters
The 1.8 has a piston dish of 6.0cc (verified)
The 2.0 has a piston dish of 14.6cc
The head has combustion chamber of 42.2cc, and the gasket has 6.5cc.
The 1.8 CR is 9.15:1
The 2.0 CR is 8.8:1
The CR is about ideal, new pistons will probably change that though.
Possible snag solutions:
Snag solution #1:
Tap and plug the 3 oil drain plug holes in the head.
Snag solution #2:
Drill and tap the block for the two holes closest to the trans, and not worry about the other two.
Possible snag to possible snag solution #2:
I think a brace runs from the two middle bolts to the front motor mount plate. I can still bolt them there, but they would be supported by the oil pan, not the block.
I do have a DTS that will be going in. This may relieve some stress on the braces and oil pan. Or it may increase it.......
Snag solution #3:
Run the turbo coolant output to some other place.
OR
Eliminate the coolant going to the turbo. This will not hurt the turbo in any way, as long as proper shutdown techniques are used (aka turbo timer) to allow the turbo to cooldown.
Thing I still have left to do/check:
1. Finish tearing down the 1.8T motor (Crank, rods, pistons are still in)
2. Make sure the trans to engine mounting holes are the same.
3. Make sure all accesories, engine mounts, and sensors bolt up to the 2.0 block.
4. Compare the 1.8 and 2.0 crank, rods, and pistons - and take more pics
5. Check to see if the 2.0 crank fits the 1.8 block (in case I can't use the 2.0 block)
If anybody has any comments, questions, or solutions (especially solutions) please let me know.
I'll go into options (aftermarket rods, pistons, etc) in another post.
I bought an "ABA" 2.0 short block out of a 94 VW Golf for $320 shipped. Going price seems to be between $300-$600. This is a popular motor swap for the VW guys, so it may be hard to find a motor as cheap as I did.
Here are the main reasons I chose this motor:
1. It's a tall deck block, 16.5mm longer than a regular 1.8 or 2.0 This allows longer rods, 159mm vs. 144mm
2. Impulse wheel - the crank trigger wheel required in order to use the stock ECU (most aftermarket Engine Management Systems require a crank trigger anyways)
3. Forged crank and oil squirters - All ABA blocks built from 93 to 95 have forged cranks and oil squirters. 96 and up have cast cranks and no oil squirters - or so I've been told. I think this means 94-96 Golfs and Jettas are the ones to get the motors from. There are other 2.0 forged cranks available, but they dont have an impulse wheel. I don't know if it's possible to machine a crank to fit an impulse wheel.
I did run into a couple snags, which I'll get to later, first here are the pics of the VW ABA motor being disassembled:
As received:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_wrap_lo.jpg">
Side shot:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_side_lo.jpg">
Identifying label:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_id_lo.jpg">
Guts removed:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_bare_bot_lo.jpg">
Close-up of oil squirters:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_squirt_lo.jpg">
Engine side:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_side_bare_lo.jpg">
Engine front:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_front_bare_lo.jpg">
92.8mm crank, notice the crank trigger wheel:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_crank_lo.jpg">
Rod and piston:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_rod_lo.jpg">
Some test fitting/comparison pics:
2.0 Windage tray:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_tray_lo.jpg">
The 1.8T windage tray:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_bot_lo.jpg">
CC'ing the 2.0 piston dish:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_cc_lo.jpg">
Testing to make sure the APR flywheel fits:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_crank_flywheel_lo.jpg">
Comparing the windage trays and oil pumps (1.8T on the right):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_baffle_match_lo.jpg">
So far, so good, right? Well, there are a couple snags:
Snag #1:
The 20V head has 5 oil drain-back holes on the exhaust side of the head. The 2.0 block only has 2.
20V head, notice the 5 big holes at the top of the head:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_head_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 engine top, notice the 5 holes (bottom):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_top_lo.jpg">
The 2.0 engine top, notice the lack of 5 holes (top):
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_top_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 head gasket on the 2.0 motor:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_head_match_lo.jpg">
Snag #2:
The transmission in the A4 bolts to the bottom of the oil pan. Because of this, there are 4 big bolts towards the the trans end for added support. The 2.0 does not have these holes.
1.8 bottom, notice the 4 holes, 2 in the back, 2 towards the middle:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_eng_bot2_lo.jpg">
2.0 bottom, notice the lack of 4 holes:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/vw_eng_bot_lo.jpg">
The 1.8 pan gasket on the 2.0:
<img src="http://johnbaas.dyndns.org/2point0/audi_vw_pan_match_lo.jpg">
Snag #3:
The 1.8T has a coolant inlet going into the side of the block for the turbo coolant return line.
The 2.0 does not have this.
Measurements:
The 1.8 has a 81.0mm bore and 86.4mm stroke to get 1.781 liters
The 2.0 has a 82.5mm bore and 92.8mm stroke to get 1.984 liters
The 1.8 has a piston dish of 6.0cc (verified)
The 2.0 has a piston dish of 14.6cc
The head has combustion chamber of 42.2cc, and the gasket has 6.5cc.
The 1.8 CR is 9.15:1
The 2.0 CR is 8.8:1
The CR is about ideal, new pistons will probably change that though.
Possible snag solutions:
Snag solution #1:
Tap and plug the 3 oil drain plug holes in the head.
Snag solution #2:
Drill and tap the block for the two holes closest to the trans, and not worry about the other two.
Possible snag to possible snag solution #2:
I think a brace runs from the two middle bolts to the front motor mount plate. I can still bolt them there, but they would be supported by the oil pan, not the block.
I do have a DTS that will be going in. This may relieve some stress on the braces and oil pan. Or it may increase it.......
Snag solution #3:
Run the turbo coolant output to some other place.
OR
Eliminate the coolant going to the turbo. This will not hurt the turbo in any way, as long as proper shutdown techniques are used (aka turbo timer) to allow the turbo to cooldown.
Thing I still have left to do/check:
1. Finish tearing down the 1.8T motor (Crank, rods, pistons are still in)
2. Make sure the trans to engine mounting holes are the same.
3. Make sure all accesories, engine mounts, and sensors bolt up to the 2.0 block.
4. Compare the 1.8 and 2.0 crank, rods, and pistons - and take more pics
5. Check to see if the 2.0 crank fits the 1.8 block (in case I can't use the 2.0 block)
If anybody has any comments, questions, or solutions (especially solutions) please let me know.
I'll go into options (aftermarket rods, pistons, etc) in another post.
03-03-2002, 04:25 AM
#2
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 2.0 Conversion Phase 1: teardown and compare (Long and LOTS of pics)
EXCELLENT info. My thoughts:
Why not bore the 1.8T block .030 over and use the 2.0 crank? You could mill the pistons and/or use a thick head gasket to lower the CR. Are shorter rods an option?
Is the tall block going to cause problems once installed with alignment of accessories, exhaust, etc?
Have you thought about cams yet?
If you could use the 1.8T block it would eliminate most if not all of your snags.
Keep us posted, the 2.0 is on my short list.
Why not bore the 1.8T block .030 over and use the 2.0 crank? You could mill the pistons and/or use a thick head gasket to lower the CR. Are shorter rods an option?
Is the tall block going to cause problems once installed with alignment of accessories, exhaust, etc?
Have you thought about cams yet?
If you could use the 1.8T block it would eliminate most if not all of your snags.
Keep us posted, the 2.0 is on my short list.
03-03-2002, 07:28 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is a kit out already that makes the 1.8 into a 1960cc motor.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/1346/stroker.jpg"></center><p>
It uses a 2.0 forged crank, carrillo rods and 8.5:1 pistons. Here is the specs:
1960cc 82.00 bore X 92.8 stroke.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eurospecsport.com/perf_kit.html">http://www.eurospecsport.com/perf_kit.html</a</li></ul>
It uses a 2.0 forged crank, carrillo rods and 8.5:1 pistons. Here is the specs:
1960cc 82.00 bore X 92.8 stroke.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eurospecsport.com/perf_kit.html">http://www.eurospecsport.com/perf_kit.html</a</li></ul>
03-03-2002, 07:35 AM
#5
how about a snag 1 added solution? dry sump with of the inlets tapped from those head locations ;)
nah I think the plugs wil do fine. Nice work. When you get it all done, it definitely becomes a re;atively inexpensive upgrade path. BTW, posted a pic of the new end links in original post below.
03-03-2002, 08:34 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't tempt me :)
So far I've got about $550 into the whole thing (bearings, motor, gaskets, etc)
If I can re-use the stock rods and pistons, I can probably do this for less than $1000.
If I can re-use the stock rods and pistons, I can probably do this for less than $1000.
