$240 worf of puddin

What is the best way to do a 2.0L. I've seen some block swaps here and on VWV and those have an option to go 2.1L (1.9L crank). Most people stick with the stock block and do a stroker kit. what ends up being the wall thickness? what are the pros and cons on both?

xr4tic

The easiest is to drop a 2.0 crank in the stock block, bore it out to 82.5 mm, and get the correct pistons.

You could do a TDi crank (1.9L) but I'm not sure where it puts the piston pin in relation to the ring lands, and the Rod/Stroke ratio goes down, and it's really only ~50cc (0.05L) increase over the 2.0 crank.

Unless you want to mess with a lot of headaches (BTDT) stick with the stock block.

I'm not sure what the wall thickness is, but people have gone to 83.5mm bores without any problems.

A400

This is from a company who builds 100k$ engines every month. It is a difficult build, but is really the only one we found with a good rod ratio. Plan on spending at least 10k$ o build one right tho (I mean for hi HP levels and endurance race type apps.), and using 1.8t heads has another set of engineering exercises that will set you back some more money to do the 'right way'.

And b4 I get a bunch of **** from all the automotive engineers on the list, this is only my view and the view of my very hi-end engine builder. So if you dont agree, its OK w/me, I know where my cash is being spent.
Rod

RAD69

I plan to do a 2.0l motor eventually and have heard this $10k number before. Why is it so much? I have built up 4 cyl turbos before and never spent near that much. I know Audi parts cost more, but can you give me a general Idea of where the costs add up so much?

xr4tic

I've got $3K into my short block, and the only area I skimped was the rods, I reconditioned the stock ones. Carillo rods would probably add another $1K. I'm actually thinking about re-doing it with Carillo rods, or maybe I'll just run it until it blows

That's without touching the head, which I plan to later, but you're looking at filling 3 holes, re-aligning two other (fill then redrill) and surfacing, etc. I really don't see it costing more than $1K for a hole head rebuild + machining, plus the cost of cams.

So with cams and good rods, that's about $6K, plus flywheel/clutch ($1K), plus ~$3K for turbo stuff.

There's $10K right there. Damn, minus the cams and rods, I've got $8K into my motor - It hurts to even think about it....

BIG NIPPER

Man your turbo (cold side) looks pretty big. Still running the T3/T4?

xr4tic

3" In, 2" out. Not as big as some guys are going, but not small either.

I'm getting another turbo though (mine is shot), this time with a Stage III turbine wheel, which should hopefully give me a little more top end at the expense of some spool up.

$240 worf of puddin

what RPM are you going to hit max boost?

xr4tic

that's the max the injectors can take, so that's all the boost I can run for now.

Larger injectors are on the way though

BIG NIPPER

Are you still ECU based?

I can't wait any longer to get my car fired up..man this is killing me. I just ordered a CDI unit for my car, should be done in a couple days hopefully....