GT28rs on stock ecu
#1
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GT28rs on stock ecu
Ok gt28rs is going on next week, I'm at school and need to get home, and I dont have time to get the programming so I was planning on driving home on the stock ecu, the vw guys do it by clamping the map, I'm ndbw so I have no map. Would I make it home safely if I turned boost down to 7 psi (stock) and took it easy while keeping a watchful eye with the vag-com? Any hints or suggestions. Thanks
Tom
BTW for fuel I have 440's and adjustable fpr
Tom
BTW for fuel I have 440's and adjustable fpr
#2
Car is going to run like crap.
That turbo needs a much larger maf which means your stock chip is not going to know what is going on. If you do use the stock maf and stock chip, you will want to run the stock injectors and stock fpr also. The problem is that everything is going to be off for that stock chip.
#4
You will be fine....
turn down the fuel pressure to 3 bar and it prob run great. Bigger issue is to make sure you install the fuel rail with the spacers to avoid air leaks, and any other pressure and vac leaks you could have from install a new kit!
Also watch your manifold to head nuts/ turbo to manifold nuts and studs / and downpipe bolts they may try to loosen on you when they go throug first few heat cycles.
Another suggestion before you bolt it all together. I would suggest tapping the atp manifold for larger studs. The 8mm studs they use tend to snap after a while. Maybe go to 3/8" studs. It's an option too look at.
Watch your 031 blocks on your wot runs. It will let you know if your having any serious fueling issues (.85 is a good number here) I'm not as fimiliar with DBC but I'm guessing your using the maf housing from ATP so you should be in the ball park with the fueling. Also take a look at 032 to see what your part throttle adapts out too. Prob be rich but the lower fuel pressure and larger maf housing really scale back the fueling.
The diode is only needed on the dbw if you want to run higher than the boost your chip is set at.
Good Luck
Also watch your manifold to head nuts/ turbo to manifold nuts and studs / and downpipe bolts they may try to loosen on you when they go throug first few heat cycles.
Another suggestion before you bolt it all together. I would suggest tapping the atp manifold for larger studs. The 8mm studs they use tend to snap after a while. Maybe go to 3/8" studs. It's an option too look at.
Watch your 031 blocks on your wot runs. It will let you know if your having any serious fueling issues (.85 is a good number here) I'm not as fimiliar with DBC but I'm guessing your using the maf housing from ATP so you should be in the ball park with the fueling. Also take a look at 032 to see what your part throttle adapts out too. Prob be rich but the lower fuel pressure and larger maf housing really scale back the fueling.
The diode is only needed on the dbw if you want to run higher than the boost your chip is set at.
Good Luck
#5
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Thanks
I posted this on the vortex and there is a buncha guys who run the stock programming all the time. I will be getting programming as soon as I get home but I don't have the time to get it before I leave. I can't wait to install it, because I have access to the shop at school, which I don't have at home. I didn't buy atp's kit I was able to put it together cheaper but I don't have the maf yet, I was gonna get into the machine shop and fabricate a maf housing. Do you know what size the atp one is? Also I won't be doing any wot runs until its complete, but I will be watching block 31 and the block for knock sensor and timing retard. Thanks again for the hints