hahaha, this is too funny, read it on another discussion forum...
10-20-2003, 12:11 PM
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hahaha, this is too funny, read it on another discussion forum...
So, someone asked what they could do to their 2000 Civic EX to make it faster, here's what someone replied with.
Suspension:
-Get a Donver Camber accelerator. If you shear .28mm from the anglebrace and debur the alignment pin you increase your skid vector by 18%.
-Remove the center coil from your drivers-side front spring. It is an extra coil in place by ANSI Guide Spec 1224.24(a)(3) which has been repealed.
-Cover your brake pads in 20 guage Marlite.
Engine:
-Remove your valve cover. Every other spring bolt should be loosened to 3 foot pounds. This allows for self-alignment in the valve lash. Petre Aushtik won the Camomile 300 last year with this trick and it leaked out of his garage. Now everyone's doing it.
-Inside your Paylor box you'll see 2 blowpass filters. Switch them. They are transductive by nature and the swirl effect works like a bivalve-port head.
-A tensor-relay on your Central Timing Cojunct will triple-spark during predetonation and enhances your O2 mixture for co-burning at valve float. This is for low rpm overshift so you have to peddle-cluth during midrev.
-Remove all gap from your sparkplugs by lightly tapping the end with a hammer. Coating them in rustoleum will add to the effect.
Transaxle:
-Your crossover bar is probably 5 pounds too heavy for the torquethrow allotment. Many OEM parts are out of contrivance specs in this manner. When your engine is at BDC cut a 13mm dia. circle at the bottom center of the housing unit and install the universal Kanniger Fluxcore optimizing reciprocator. At 2800 rpms you'll leave rubber on the ground.
Otherwise, one of those little Hula Girls on the dash is always nice.
Suspension:
-Get a Donver Camber accelerator. If you shear .28mm from the anglebrace and debur the alignment pin you increase your skid vector by 18%.
-Remove the center coil from your drivers-side front spring. It is an extra coil in place by ANSI Guide Spec 1224.24(a)(3) which has been repealed.
-Cover your brake pads in 20 guage Marlite.
Engine:
-Remove your valve cover. Every other spring bolt should be loosened to 3 foot pounds. This allows for self-alignment in the valve lash. Petre Aushtik won the Camomile 300 last year with this trick and it leaked out of his garage. Now everyone's doing it.
-Inside your Paylor box you'll see 2 blowpass filters. Switch them. They are transductive by nature and the swirl effect works like a bivalve-port head.
-A tensor-relay on your Central Timing Cojunct will triple-spark during predetonation and enhances your O2 mixture for co-burning at valve float. This is for low rpm overshift so you have to peddle-cluth during midrev.
-Remove all gap from your sparkplugs by lightly tapping the end with a hammer. Coating them in rustoleum will add to the effect.
Transaxle:
-Your crossover bar is probably 5 pounds too heavy for the torquethrow allotment. Many OEM parts are out of contrivance specs in this manner. When your engine is at BDC cut a 13mm dia. circle at the bottom center of the housing unit and install the universal Kanniger Fluxcore optimizing reciprocator. At 2800 rpms you'll leave rubber on the ground.
Otherwise, one of those little Hula Girls on the dash is always nice.
10-20-2003, 12:57 PM
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here's more:
Advice on Street Racing:
Don't.
Or, if you insist on it, go to a mechaninc and tell him you need this done:
Replace the transaxel flange pin with a Dobson worm set ground to 52 nils. You need to redirect the blowpass port to the tangent valve but only if your car is equiped with a reciprocating tangent valve. If it is an oscillating tangent valve, well, just get the Holley Tangent Set linkage (part# Holley TSL 6722). Also, check for valve lash in the reciprocator. Rotate it 20 degrees clockwaise and if it returns to the poriginal position I wouldn't recommend racing it in an ambient temperature under 70 F.
As far as the gear set is concerned, check the final ratio. If it is between, 3.55:1 and 3.75:1 you should have a Portman controller installed. It works like a windage tray and keeps the reflux pressure off the flexplate during stall torque. By installing a retention spring in the head casing and tweaking the CO sensors you can obtain idle doublage if you run a 117 octain booster. Just make sure you use prelooped, braided spark wires or the flashback will tar up the heads from all the pre-burn.
Run your timing to about 17 points above and take it to the track!
__________________________________________________
How to install a turbo kit:
I'm SRS certified, but the way, so this advice is legit:
First, in any application where the torsion measurement of the bifurcated transducer elements will reach over 28 farids I definitely recommend tensile-welding your crossover induction with a plasma cutter. Not only will this save the obvious time but if you change the reflexive Crowson component with the fixed-aspect penumbra gear in the capsule housing you can keep the original exhaust parts. This is important if you want to use irradiant thermetrics in the trigger-housing. If not, and I never have, then stick to OEM parts found on the English "Grendle 420." There were a blue-million of those made between 1973 and 1987. Just ask someone to go to a UK boneyard and remover everthing from the inlet reduction port to the payload sensors. When you get it here remember to install it transversely to the kinetic post and use a #14 star bit torqued to 18 foot pounds. Lastly use tennebrite composite gaskets. I say this because you will be burning a hi/lo mixture of methanol and 87 octane (87/23). This combination sets up a refelxive co-wave upon detonation and the sympathetic signal causes multiple-spark distribution. How's THAT for cool ?
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask about any problems. I'm always ready to help.
Don't.
Or, if you insist on it, go to a mechaninc and tell him you need this done:
Replace the transaxel flange pin with a Dobson worm set ground to 52 nils. You need to redirect the blowpass port to the tangent valve but only if your car is equiped with a reciprocating tangent valve. If it is an oscillating tangent valve, well, just get the Holley Tangent Set linkage (part# Holley TSL 6722). Also, check for valve lash in the reciprocator. Rotate it 20 degrees clockwaise and if it returns to the poriginal position I wouldn't recommend racing it in an ambient temperature under 70 F.
As far as the gear set is concerned, check the final ratio. If it is between, 3.55:1 and 3.75:1 you should have a Portman controller installed. It works like a windage tray and keeps the reflux pressure off the flexplate during stall torque. By installing a retention spring in the head casing and tweaking the CO sensors you can obtain idle doublage if you run a 117 octain booster. Just make sure you use prelooped, braided spark wires or the flashback will tar up the heads from all the pre-burn.
Run your timing to about 17 points above and take it to the track!
__________________________________________________
How to install a turbo kit:
I'm SRS certified, but the way, so this advice is legit:
First, in any application where the torsion measurement of the bifurcated transducer elements will reach over 28 farids I definitely recommend tensile-welding your crossover induction with a plasma cutter. Not only will this save the obvious time but if you change the reflexive Crowson component with the fixed-aspect penumbra gear in the capsule housing you can keep the original exhaust parts. This is important if you want to use irradiant thermetrics in the trigger-housing. If not, and I never have, then stick to OEM parts found on the English "Grendle 420." There were a blue-million of those made between 1973 and 1987. Just ask someone to go to a UK boneyard and remover everthing from the inlet reduction port to the payload sensors. When you get it here remember to install it transversely to the kinetic post and use a #14 star bit torqued to 18 foot pounds. Lastly use tennebrite composite gaskets. I say this because you will be burning a hi/lo mixture of methanol and 87 octane (87/23). This combination sets up a refelxive co-wave upon detonation and the sympathetic signal causes multiple-spark distribution. How's THAT for cool ?
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask about any problems. I'm always ready to help.
