help with DSM...
12-01-2000, 09:27 PM
#1
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help with DSM...
ok ok, this is no DSM website, i know that part, but it seems like a lot of people have had experiences with DSM's arond (judging from polls)
i'm specifically looking for Talon TSi AWD (not that they're any different, but its the only thing Canadians get) can someone shed some light on reliability, things to watch out for, moddability (i know they're fast... but are they reliable when slightly modded?)
yes, i know they don't compare to the A4... but as of now, even after hanging around here for a year, the car is, well, simply put, out of my price range. Its a pity, b/c the A4 is exactally waht I wanted. The DSM cars are relatively cheap... so, it might be for the better.
lastly... is there any good DSM forums out there?
TIA!
i'm specifically looking for Talon TSi AWD (not that they're any different, but its the only thing Canadians get) can someone shed some light on reliability, things to watch out for, moddability (i know they're fast... but are they reliable when slightly modded?)
yes, i know they don't compare to the A4... but as of now, even after hanging around here for a year, the car is, well, simply put, out of my price range. Its a pity, b/c the A4 is exactally waht I wanted. The DSM cars are relatively cheap... so, it might be for the better.
lastly... is there any good DSM forums out there?
TIA!
12-02-2000, 05:01 AM
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You can easily get 350hp...
...out of that motor with a modified 16G or 20G turbo. If it's a '96 or earlier model it will have the better manifold (to bolt on an old school 16G).
By the way, you'll get 24MPG on the highway with the A/C on (all while the car is tuned out for 350HP).
They are great cars if you don't EVER put anyone in the back seat and they make great track beaters.
Mike O.
By the way, you'll get 24MPG on the highway with the A/C on (all while the car is tuned out for 350HP).
They are great cars if you don't EVER put anyone in the back seat and they make great track beaters.
Mike O.
12-02-2000, 08:30 AM
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I have a modded 95 GST with the stock T-2small turbo. I am running around 275 hp. It is great, I
will be getting a Frankie Jr. turbo, this is the biggest turbo upgrade you want for the streets. It can get you up to 400 hp with little lag. I Big 16G and 20G have too much lag for the streets.
12-02-2000, 08:47 AM
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I did some research as well
They can certainly be monsters, esp at the drag strip. Mildly modded you can run low 14s into the 13s. The times I've been to New England Dragway in NH, they were the fastest import street cars. Saw some in the 12s.
The 1st gen may be something to consider, specifically the 94 model. This was the last year before the 2nd gen, and seems to have many of the "bugs" worked out. I think you def want one with the 4 bolt tranny or whatever it was. Something was 4bolt instead of 3bolt, hehe. The 1st gen had a slightly bigger turbo, but ran less boost stock. I think you can get the head from a 2nd gen slap it on the 1st gen, and you can make very nice power.
Reliability is somewhat of an issue, esp when heavilly modded. They tend to start breaking expensive drivetrain parts. I think with around 300 HP or so, you should be relatively safe, hehe.
I may get one as a project drag car or something...
Take care and good luck!
FB
The 1st gen may be something to consider, specifically the 94 model. This was the last year before the 2nd gen, and seems to have many of the "bugs" worked out. I think you def want one with the 4 bolt tranny or whatever it was. Something was 4bolt instead of 3bolt, hehe. The 1st gen had a slightly bigger turbo, but ran less boost stock. I think you can get the head from a 2nd gen slap it on the 1st gen, and you can make very nice power.
Reliability is somewhat of an issue, esp when heavilly modded. They tend to start breaking expensive drivetrain parts. I think with around 300 HP or so, you should be relatively safe, hehe.
I may get one as a project drag car or something...
Take care and good luck!
FB
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12-03-2000, 10:09 AM
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DSM Buyer's Guide
We sell parts for the DSM cars as well as Audi turbos. In the spirit of the 1.8t, these are strong cars that can be made VERY strong with simple, inexpensive mods. Mildly modified, they are extremely reliable; plenty of daily drivers (my 91 GSX included) have 350 horsepower and mid-12 quarter mile times.
Some of the other posters have made some comments I'll elaborate on. By way of explanation, the first generation DSMs, model years 90-94, are referred to as "1G." The second generation, 95-99 are "2G."
- The 1G head is better flowing, particularly the intake ports and intake manifold
- The 2G exhaust manifold has bigger ports, and is made of cast steel, less prone to warping. It's often used on 1G cars; it's a direct bolt-on.
- The "three bolt" vs. "four bolt" detail is the rear differential on 1G AWD cars. The early cars, up to mid-92, had a three-bolt flange from the axle to the diff and to the hub. Later ones had a four-bolt flange, with a beefier axle that is less prone to breaking under drag race conditions.
- The earliest motors (before mid-92) have thicker, stronger (albeit heavier) rods. The 2G motors have higher-compression pistons, 8.5:1 vs. 7.9:1 for the 1G motors. The hot ticket is to mate the 2G pistons to the 1G rods, to have very beefy bottom end with nice response from the higher compression. Because of the wrist pin difference that cmh mentioned, this takes custom machine work.
- The 1G turbo is a Mitsubishi 14B. It's good for about 300 max horsepower. The 2G is a Garrett T25, good for around 250 max horsepower.
We've got a lot of information about these cars at our web site, including a buyer's guide. See the link. There's a message board there, too; link to it from the home page.
--Dan
Mach V Motorsports<ul><li><a href="http://www.machv.com/tip6buyingdsm.html">DSM Buyers Guide</a></li></ul>
Some of the other posters have made some comments I'll elaborate on. By way of explanation, the first generation DSMs, model years 90-94, are referred to as "1G." The second generation, 95-99 are "2G."
- The 1G head is better flowing, particularly the intake ports and intake manifold
- The 2G exhaust manifold has bigger ports, and is made of cast steel, less prone to warping. It's often used on 1G cars; it's a direct bolt-on.
- The "three bolt" vs. "four bolt" detail is the rear differential on 1G AWD cars. The early cars, up to mid-92, had a three-bolt flange from the axle to the diff and to the hub. Later ones had a four-bolt flange, with a beefier axle that is less prone to breaking under drag race conditions.
- The earliest motors (before mid-92) have thicker, stronger (albeit heavier) rods. The 2G motors have higher-compression pistons, 8.5:1 vs. 7.9:1 for the 1G motors. The hot ticket is to mate the 2G pistons to the 1G rods, to have very beefy bottom end with nice response from the higher compression. Because of the wrist pin difference that cmh mentioned, this takes custom machine work.
- The 1G turbo is a Mitsubishi 14B. It's good for about 300 max horsepower. The 2G is a Garrett T25, good for around 250 max horsepower.
We've got a lot of information about these cars at our web site, including a buyer's guide. See the link. There's a message board there, too; link to it from the home page.
--Dan
Mach V Motorsports<ul><li><a href="http://www.machv.com/tip6buyingdsm.html">DSM Buyers Guide</a></li></ul>
12-04-2000, 11:02 AM
#10
My DSM had tranny synchronizer problems, but other than that, it was a pretty fun car...
Manual tranny's are not the best thing that Mitsu's are good at. So far, had 3 Mitsu's in the family all with tranny problems. My latest Montero suffers the same fate with a slipping clutch and a messed up throw out bearing. Nothing a centerforce can fix.
My DMS also had oil lubrication problems, so I fabricated larger piping to the oil cooler using hardware store copper piping and fittings. Worked really good.
Engine wise - the engine vibrated very harshly at 6500 rpm, like it was going to break and fall apart. I played with the harmonic balancer (driven by the timing belt) and found that at 60 degrees off proper timing, it worked wonders - 7500 rpm, no vibration. Lots of power potential, but sold it to get the Montero later.
My DMS also had oil lubrication problems, so I fabricated larger piping to the oil cooler using hardware store copper piping and fittings. Worked really good.
Engine wise - the engine vibrated very harshly at 6500 rpm, like it was going to break and fall apart. I played with the harmonic balancer (driven by the timing belt) and found that at 60 degrees off proper timing, it worked wonders - 7500 rpm, no vibration. Lots of power potential, but sold it to get the Montero later.