Boston Mike

bpv,basiclly just the bolt on stuff. The problem is when I hit 5300 rpm, I seem to stop making power. The engine still revs, the rpm's still climb, the boost is still there, but somthing is wrong, the car stops going faster. Any ideas? anything will help. TIA Mike

markbradford

I got rid of mine and noticed more power and better drivability. Miss the sound a bit tho.

nick n

sometimes they can creep off of the rubber/silicone collar that connects to the MAF unit. Remember, you're dealing with aftermarket stuff. Be very careful b/c if you're leaking from the turbo hose and not channeling the air properly you'll fry your turbo very quickly in that tight compartment.
The most probable reason is that you're loosing torque. Look at a 'stage 2' dyno graph. You should be shifting between 5 and 6k with your set-up, unless you want to wind it out after an oil change .

mannino

get rid of apr chip and bay garret chip from pes-tuning and you problem well bee resolved .I had phe same problem. you well bee happy.

Boston Mike

confused is would I not see evidence of a leak with my boost gauge? Also I used to pull all the way to 6300 before I would shift. Do you think there is a possibility of my clutch slipping under these high RPM's? The clutch is fine under normal driving conditions. Thanks, Mike

nick n

There is potential for a boost leak if you've tapped off of the FPR line. The regulator may not be getting enough air. I'd rather clog my cat w/ rich mixture then blow my engine with a lean one. Keep an eye on the 'T' or move it to the BPV line for peace of mind.

Your chip could be cutting back on timing. My Apr chip does this in weather below 40F. There is a 'cold weather program' that can cure this but I've been hesitant to send my ecu back to them. Consider reseting your ecu as a last resort. I did get my power back - it's just a pita getting to it unless you have a vag-tool.

The clutch could be slipping but that should only occur after 3rd gear - I think you'd smell it too.
-You can be beat on this clutch as long as you don't slip it (oxymoron?) often and it'll hold well, fwiw...

LMH

Right around 5300 is about where the K03 runs out as far as being efficiant on our engines. If you want to know if your slipping or if you have some strange problem at high boost and higher rpm's go dyno it. That will give you a ton of info. If it shows an erratic delivery of power then you probably have a problem somewhere. Most dyno's can tell if your clutch is slipping even just a little bit. Remember with the K03 torque builds fast to 3000rpms and then slightly deminishes as you approach 5200 after that it drops like a rock.

Paul H. (near Annapolis, MD)

APR makes two versions of code for pre-'00 cars:

8D0 907 557 P - All pre00 cars except Quattro Tip
8D0 907 559 C - All pre00 Quattro Tip cars

I have a pre00 Quattro Tip. So initially APR sent me the 8D0 907 559 C version. With that version I had the same experience you did - the car went like gangbusters until exactly 5300 RPM, then nothing. Above 5300 it was like stock, maybe even weaker than stock. There was an abrupt drop in boost at this point also (like someone flipped off a switch) as observed on my boost gauge (no way this could be a leak if I can hold 16-17 PSI steadily at lower RPMs).

At one point, I noticed that my original, unmodified, ECU (which I still have) has the other part number (8D0 907 557 P). So I tried this version of the APR code (I have a home programmer). Sure enough, the 557 P code will not accept a drivetrain coding for Quattro AND TIP (it will accept either/or, but not both). Fortunately, if you set the ECU drivetrain coding with the 559 C version and then flash the 557 P on, your previous coding is retained, allowing you to use the 557 P code on a Quattro Tip car.

Voila! Just like that, the problem went away. My car now pulls like gangbusters, pretty much all the way up to redline! And the only change I made to fix this problem was flashing the 557 P code onto my EMCS unit.

No guarantees that this is your problem, but well worth looking into, given my experience. I see that you have a 5-speed. If your original ECU *is* the 559 C version, then this is what you should be using, and your problem could be something else.

Unless there is a bug in APR's 559 C code. Anyone else running 559 C have power above 5300 RPM?). Guess what? You should! Like Mark said, you should be pulling to at least 6K or something is wrong. You could try the 557 P code, but if your original ECU was 559 C I would hesitate. The only reason I did it was because the 557 P matches my original ECU.

You will need a VAG tool to determine which version is currently loaded onto your ECU, unless APR has this in their records.

Paul

Boston Mike

have a regular apr program and somthing went wrong with it. That solder problem you may have heard about. Well I sent it back to them to have it fixed (they never even paid for shipping either way) and also put emcs in. Well I got it back and the car worked fine but I never took it past five grand untill about a month ago. Before I sent it out I used to ride it to 6200rpm quite often and no problem. So my friend maybe you do have the solution. However, I do not have a VAG tool. Any chance you'll be in the Boston area anytime soon? If not is there anyone out there who can help me with this? Thanks, Mike

Paul H. (near Annapolis, MD)

To answer your question, yes I do have EMCS. You might just call APR and ask them if they have a record of which part number they loaded onto your EMCS unit. They may or may not. Do not tell them what kind of car you have. They either have a record of what they loaded or they don't. If they don't, just thank them nicely as there really is no reason for them to keep records in that level of detail. Then you will need to find a VAG tool unfortunately.

Once you have the part number of the software they loaded, the next step is to get the part number from the outside of the original ECU that came with your car. If this is the chipped ECU, that's fine (they don't change the label when they put the chip in). Then post the results here.

Question: Are you seeing an abrupt drop in boost at 5300 RPM? From 10 PSI to, like, 3 PSI all of the sudden?

Paul