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Lucas, Clark (any with 'under-hood' experience); re: modified motors

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Old 11-27-2000, 08:23 PM
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Default Lucas, Clark (any with 'under-hood' experience); re: modified motors

(i.e.: chip, exaust, turbo, injectors, perhaps exasut maifold; etc.)

The general question would be: When would be the best time to change out the timing belt/tensiors/fuel pump or in other words, run a typical '60k service'.

I am not heavily modified yet although I run my car. My car is only chipped and I'm working on an exaust. 75-80% of the time, I run it between 5 and 6k.

What are some of the tricks of the trade for keeping the motor (specifically 1.8L) in impeccable condition (besides an oil/filter chnge) and what should be avoided?
Old 11-27-2000, 08:47 PM
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Default Re: Lucas, Clark (any with 'under-hood' experience); re: modified motors

Hmmm Keeping the motor in impeccable condition?
Thats a tought one, Don't rev the **** out if it is a good start.
But seriously, Major Service, do them 5K earlier than scheduled.
Ask the dealer if there are any other items worth looking at that have failed that he knows of.
Oil Changed, do as many as you can and afford.
Its not the Oil Breaks down thats the prob, Generally it does not break down, but get puluted with Contaminants from you Petrol and combustion process.
Use only high grade oils, lubricants..
No extra bull crap addidtives.
As for Tricks or the trade, there really is None, the more you push it, the less it lastes.
The more you drive, the less it lasts.
You use it, it will wear, Its that simple..
Old 11-27-2000, 09:58 PM
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Default Good working order...

Yeah, like Lucas said, do timing belt slightly before interval is not a bad idea. Make sure the engine is up to temp before you rev the crap out of it. Allow a proper cool down time if you drive the car HARD (ie track). Other than changing your oil/filter regularly and using good quality lubricants like Castrol/Mobil 1, etc Your engine will happily last you at least 200,000 miles even if heavily modified
Old 11-28-2000, 12:37 AM
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Default Info..

Avoid High RPM when possible. With your ko3 there is NO point in going above 5500 rpm. Use that low end trq and shift early. Make sure oil temp is up a bit before and boost is used. Let the engine cool at an idle whenever possible. Dont idle to much as idling is very bad for a motor.

Run it hard and it will not last. Its that simple. Raising the Hp generaly will not hurt a motor.. Its how much you use that extra hp. If you run a 150hp 1.8t and a 250hp 1.8t on the highway there whole life there will be little diff in life expectancy. Abuse them and you will see a HUGE difference in life. One thing we should not forget: This is an 1800cc engine.. It makes a TON of heat and works very hard to make the power we ask of it. Its a great motor but it is working hard. No if's and's or But's about it.

Lucas is right about the timing belt. I would do it early. One of our cars had the belt fail and its now a nightmare. I will do mine at 45-50k.

The 1.8t does not need much other than normal maintainance.

Coolant flush every few years might not be a bad idea. Even though its 100,000 mile coolant.

Change the oil and filter every 3k. Use Factory Audi oil filters. Use a good 5w oil.

Replace those Vac lines every year if you live in a hit climate. It costs $5 and takes about 30 minutes. I found several cracked lines in 1 year of ownership.

I would do plugs at least once a year depending on mileage if chipped. Chipped 1.8ts detonate alot even though you may not hear it. On close inspection your plugs will show pitting and erotion.

The fuel filter is designed to last the life of the motor and does not require replacement as far as what I gathered from the service manual. I will change mine anyways at about 60k. The sad part is the 6 hours it takes to replace it. The entire Gas tank must be dropped to gain access to the filter. Its cheap as its the same filter used in Audi's/VW's for years. Just a pain in the A** to change.

Thats about it.


Clark
Old 11-28-2000, 06:11 AM
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Default Consitant engine temps. are key ...ie. two power units, one stationary...

run on the gov. vs. the other one over the road. The one max'd on the gov. will last twice as long. The one over the road gets a greater variation of temps. Work towards even temps on everything, engine trans. & frt & rear diffs.
Old 11-28-2000, 06:52 AM
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Default Well, my dealer didn't charge me 6 hours of labor to replace the fuel filter...

I think I'll go back and look at the bill to see if they charged me for a fuel filter. I KNOW I didn't pay for 6 hours of dealer labor. Hmmm...
Old 11-28-2000, 09:18 AM
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Default You say idling is very bad for a motor, why? what happens? I made a post on the

a4 forum yesterday that I was talking to a guy who installs remote starters for cars. He said somtimes he lets his car warm up in the winter for 20 or 30 min!
I made the arguement about carbon build up, and he said that simply is not true. I made the arguement about running rich he said that does not matter. I agree with you on this subject, however I need some good retorts. Can you help me? TIA Mike
Old 11-28-2000, 09:21 AM
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Default

P.S. My car is a 5 speed anyway. I dont want the starter, I just want to prove him wrong.
Old 11-28-2000, 10:00 AM
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Default Your getting engineering advice from a guy who installs remote starters???!

Nuff said there. GM even did a research on starting a car and let it idle, etc. Yes it will build carbon up. In the winter, yeah if you need to warm the car up that's fine, but otherwise, start the car and start going.
Old 11-28-2000, 10:01 AM
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Default Thats what the repair manual said.

My guess is that you did not even get one. I searched for it until I located it. Its under the Fuel tank.

Clark


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