Havepitty in W.Van

it took forever to find the spare time to get this together.

1.8T ATC (TT 180HP).
OEM MAF = 2.365" ID (confirmed)
OEM fuel inje = 290cc@3bar (unconfirmed)

its good for 232HP IMHO.

New MAF housing = 2.87" ID (should be 2.91")
New fuel inje = 441cc@3bar (unconfirmed)

and this setup is good for 350HP before MAF dies or car runs really lean. everything is uprated 50%~. my trip computer numbers need to be timed .75 now to get the correct numbers.

MAF was home made, injectors are bosh from that guy on vortex.

OEM setup would run as high as -5.5% fuel trim. lean high rpm, i guess that means car is running too rich, hence fuel is reduced.

New setup is running ok at low RPM - but high RPM it has about -15% fuel trim. i get sometimes as much as -21% fuel trim - but i think i know why.

the car throttle jerks at 4000rpm WOT. the rubber intake is colapsing and uncolapsing kinda PITA. Never had this incidence but VAG confirms its 100% throttle opening and my air flow fluctuates almost 0 to 120g/sec(corrected to OEM measurement) so its pretty much obvious.

No CEL (fingers crossed)- i guess all i have to do is start making that intake runners and bolt that GT25r on now... oh wait maybe i shouldn't skip splitsec fuel computer...

i hope that the fuel pump can hold to 350HP cause i really don't want to mess around with it...

gimme some feedbacks - i got FMIC no pipings, splitsec fuel computer, DIY wideband and ATP manifold+turbo (no DP) left to put into the car. which order should i go?

Audi2ptzero

They wont be enough for 350 hp.

BTW your timing might be all off since your running a larger maf without changing anything in the chip, this could be one reason your car is running so rich at high rpms.

xr4tic

The two fuel trims indicate idle fuel trim, and part throttle fuel trim.

First, use the split second to get the idle trim as close as possible to zero (within 3% or so)

Then, hit the highway and cruise around 2500 RPM and dial in the part throttle as close to zero as possible. Then increase to 3000, then 3500, then 4000. (downshift to get the higher RPMs at sane cruising speeds)

Then do some WOT runs and make sure it doesn't knock from too much timing (a FMIC may help with that) and make sure the WB says you're somewhere in the ballpark.

Havepitty in W.Van

and they are pretty consistant.

the 5.5% and 15% are block 116 - where it shows fuel trim consistantly. i dunno whats the difference with that and the block 032 which shows idel and part.

i think i will put in the fuel comp next, but i think the DIY WB will be in last, cause its not calibrated until i go to a dyno. and my exhaust is comming off, make a proper 3" all the way and get rid of that rice burner muffler (what the hell was i thinking when i put that in??) so it will be kinda anoying to install and remove then install again...

Havepitty in W.Van

maf housing is matched with injectors. i don't see how timing plays a part when my turbo is still the same.

i can't say for sure i am running rich with this setup, until i resolve that rubber intake runner colapsing at 3500-4000rpm.

SMOKINA4TURBO

Pretty awesome piece. Even comes with datalogging and extra's.

Its got a cool feature so you can use the wideband 02 sensor for the ECU readings. I got it all hooked up but just need a VAG, pretty curious to what the 02 reading are in the VAG.

Dang I should put this wideband unit in a while ago:-)

xr4tic

just never got around to putting them together.

I'm currently waiting for the parts to come in.

Havepitty in W.Van

i got mine beginning of this year. ver 1.0 cause i like simplicity.

took me 2 weeks to solder the board, and the display about 1 hour per day. some parts are confusing, but its not impossible. there were 2 or 3 resistors left when i finished, and i never found out where they go.

the circuit seems to work, i just have to get that wideband O2 sensor - some places are charging over $300 for it, when it should be around $100...

good luck with you board.

xr4tic

quite a while ago, from the DIY-WB group.