4heid

I am trying to decide which bleeder is better. This one from Adirondack auto parts under the link below seems good but it only acts as a pump that works at the master cylinder forcing new fluid in and out through the bleeder valves.
I was otherwise looking at the Mityvac, which works by pulling fluid from the MC using a pump through the bleeder valve, which to me sounds better.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
Chris<ul><li><a href="http://www.germanautoparts.com/">http://www.germanautoparts.com/</a</li></ul>

John/TSR

It's actually kinda clever - I've used old Freon cylinders to make "pressure fill tanks" for gearbox and diff oil (really handy when the filler is in some really tight spot), but I've never seen one of these for brakes.

But...what happens when you're done ? You've got a hose full of brake fluid - what happens when you remove the cap ??? Do you spray brake fluid everywhere ?

I've taken a master cyl. cap and glued an air hose quick connect fitting to it, so I can connect an air line to it and pressure bleed the brakes. The problem with this was that you couldn't keep an eye on the fluid level, so you had to keep checking the reservoir. The Adirondack bleeder seems to fix this problem, but it's be nice to hear from somebody who's actually used one.

The MightyVacs suck for bleeding brakes. The hoses collapse on hot brake fluid, you can never really get a good solid pedal if you only use the MightyVac, and the reservoir is too small. They're ok for sucking the master clean before you start, but that's about it. I keep one under the bench in the big trailer, but it doesn't get used much (I think Warren **** and Alex M. used it last - at Summit in October).

Warren Wang

It's a cheaper, and not quite as well made version of what Steve D sells. Too bad everything that he has is friggin expensive.

Yeah, I used that goofy little MightyVac to hold brake fluid, but not for actually attempting any bleeding. I figured that was some little job that you rigged up yourself. I can't believe they actually think that would suck out brake fluid.

If you've got money to burn, check out Steve D's brake bleeder. It's really nice. It's $140 though. I think I'd rather con someone into helping me the old fashioned way :P

Warren<ul><li><a href="http://www.ultimategarage.com/special1.html">Nice single person brake bleeder</a></li></ul>

Arnold D

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/7236/pwr_bleeder.jpg">
pic by leeep

It's called the Power Bleeder and is made by a company called <a href="http://www.motiveproducts.com">Motive Products</a>. We tried using it during a brake tech session held last weekend.

I've used this bleeder on my 86 VW GTI without any problems. Pour brake fluid in the container, pump it up a few times and then unscrew the bleeder valve. It was quicker to bleed the brake lines that it was to remove the wheels!

When we tried it out on the A4, it worked fine after we figured out the correct pressure and amount of fresh fluid to keep in the container. When you're done, simply unscrew the top of the unit to release the pressure.

Having someone pump the brake pedal while someone else opened the bleeder valve was a little faster, but the bleeder is great if you don't have any friends handy.

I used to have a MityVac too and it does suck. I felt I had to work the pump too much for the small amount of suction I was able to build up. Also, the plastic model that I had felt very flimsy.

WClark

...which is actualy the Vacula BRAKE BLEEDER CLASSIC Mk3. Griot's also carried larger version they called the "ultimate brake bleeder" - it is the Vacula BRAKE BLEEDER DRAINMAN Mk3.

It looks like a good product and I have had nothing but excelent experiences with stuff Griots sells, but I have not yet used this one.

Rich L.

It works great up front but I have trouble with the rear. Even 30 PSI in the tank doesn't push the fluid out very well. Can you describe the "correct pressure and amount of fresh fluid" that works for you?

Thanks,
Rich

Arnold D

The rears are where we had trouble too. We didn't go past the recommended 20 PSI for fear of pushing too much pressure in the system. At 15-20 PSI the brake fluid came out a lot slower that I expected, as if there was something blocking the way. It worked, but having someone pump the brake pedal for the rears was faster.

Also, the bleeder seems to work better when there is enough to pump fluid into the reservoir instead of air. The fronts didn't seem as particular.

We really didn't solve the problem, but found a couple of things that helped. Sorry I couldn't help any more...

John/TSR

The brake line pressure to the rears is lowered by a proportioning valve - that's why you had problems. Most brake systems under full whoa-**** squeeze are at something on the order of 900-1200 lb./sq.in. line pressure, which is why it takes so long at 20-30 lbs.

The 20-30 lbs. limit when using the pressure bleeders isn't to avoid damage to the brake system, it's to avoid blowing the plastic jar to pieces. At 20-30 lbs. you're barely getting the needle valves off the seats in the prop valve.

Not much you can do about it unless you want to build a metal container for the fluid and get beefier lines...or do what I do - take the prop valve out and put in a manual, cockpit adjustable prop valve (or a balance bar). Probably not a project most people want to deal with, and well beyond the techology awareness of most people. And certainly not appropriate in a street car.

But that's why the rears are such a bitch, since you were wondering.

Arnold D

Thanks... at least now I know it isn't completely the bleeder's fault.

Warren Wang

If the reservoir will stand up to 50-60 psi, then maybe a metal brake bleeder would work out nicely.

Warren