So how have you addressed the inside rear wheel lifting...
#1
So how have you addressed the inside rear wheel lifting...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/69143/autox_a4_3-sm.jpg"></center><p>
and having AWD become ZWD (zero-wheel drive)? I've searched the archives, but it appears that only a few autocrossers are having a problem with this. I could tell the inside rear wheel was lifting off the ground, but until this photo was shot last weekend -- I live in Arizona, where we play with cars during the winter and garage them during the summer! -- I didn't know by how much. No wonder the car loves transitions and hates sweeping turns!
For my part, I plan to make the rear shocks an inch longer at the next rebuild and install a 944 LSD in the rear diff case so there's at least some ability to drive the outside rear wheel while the inside is dangling in the air. Stiffer springs are another possibility (I'm presently at 380# front and rear), but since the lots that are used locally tend to be a bit bumpy, I'd prefer to keep them as soft as possible so as to maximize grip...
and having AWD become ZWD (zero-wheel drive)? I've searched the archives, but it appears that only a few autocrossers are having a problem with this. I could tell the inside rear wheel was lifting off the ground, but until this photo was shot last weekend -- I live in Arizona, where we play with cars during the winter and garage them during the summer! -- I didn't know by how much. No wonder the car loves transitions and hates sweeping turns!
For my part, I plan to make the rear shocks an inch longer at the next rebuild and install a 944 LSD in the rear diff case so there's at least some ability to drive the outside rear wheel while the inside is dangling in the air. Stiffer springs are another possibility (I'm presently at 380# front and rear), but since the lots that are used locally tend to be a bit bumpy, I'd prefer to keep them as soft as possible so as to maximize grip...
#3
you could even use parts from an old audi V8 rear diff...
Those differentials are Torsen!
I have mounted a RS2 reardiff with vacumenabled full lock on mine. Car get a really oversteered with lock enabled though...
I have mounted a RS2 reardiff with vacumenabled full lock on mine. Car get a really oversteered with lock enabled though...
#4
The solution is obvious....
just remove all the doors and allow the chassis to twist
OK, maybe not.
Have you thought about lowering it? It may not solve the problem, but it may reduce the amount of time the tire spends off the ground.
How about relocating the battery to the trunk?
Again, it probably won't solve the problem, but it couldn't hurt.
OK, maybe not.
Have you thought about lowering it? It may not solve the problem, but it may reduce the amount of time the tire spends off the ground.
How about relocating the battery to the trunk?
Again, it probably won't solve the problem, but it couldn't hurt.
#5
50/50 on an open diff?
anyone who has ever been stuck in the snow might differ. with an open diff. you can spin one wheel with the other standing still. this translates to a 100/00 split. i think a torsen would work well here.
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#8
im not a suspension expert...
but it would seem that increasing the load capacity of the front suspension would minimize the rear lifing. i.e. adding stiffer springs in the front.
i would think just lowering would slow the lifting down but not eliminate it.
i would think just lowering would slow the lifting down but not eliminate it.
#9
form what i know, inside rear wheel lift is a "characteristic" of VWs...
you may get some better ideas by asking the VW auto-x crowd...though they wont be vehicle specific enough to really help you.
#10
Look into the Stassis LSD, I am very happy, still works if wheel in air. but 1750$
They also have a center diff I am not yet sold on. You can do a front diff with 968 rear diff parts.
None of these will keep the wheel on the ground.
Rod
None of these will keep the wheel on the ground.
Rod