MyF355Spider

The exhaust leak is not as bad as it was, but it is still there. I didn't get that one stud that was broken out, but I am not sure the leak is in the DP/turbo connection. I'm not saying its not, but I am not positive it is. Is there any liquid or spray that will tell me where the leak is coming from? Also, I couldn't really get to the 3 bottom middle ex. manifold nuts, are those that important? x4rtic, did you get them on? So here are the possible places for a leak:
Head/manifold
manifold/turbo
turbo/downpipe
manifold/tube (Don't think so)
tube/wastegate (Don't think so)
How safe/unsafe is it to run with smoke billowing up? I don't want to scorch my hood, but would it be safe to drive it 35 minutes to an exhaust shop? Otherwise, what about 10? Is an exhaust shop going to be able to detect and give a diagnosis of the problem?
Thanks so much for the input. Steve
Still looking for a way to drill through a High Carbon Steel Easy-out. I tried a cobalt bit, but no go, maybe carbide??

SMOKINA4TURBO

Ok a few tips since you need a little hand...

1. When doing turbo installations its wise to do a quality thourough job, and if you cant do this you may need to see a professional.

2. When running used turbo componants always check for a flat surface area.

3. The exhaust leak will not melt the hood. You should be able to spot carbon buildup by the leak so check where all surfaces meet.

4. Running 4 of the 5 downpipe bolts makes the trq. specs different and uneven on the 2 surfaces.Whenever two surfaces are flush, it is impossible for a leak, where theres a leak, theres a gap and thats how you warp the materials.

5. I think it would be wise to take off the turbo and take it to a machine shop and they can drill out the stud and install a special coil with threads on it so it will work like new.

6. There is simply lots of exhaust pressure in turbo applications and the heat is hard on gaskets. Leaving gaps or not torquing properly will lead to problems with warping and blown gaskets. If you did not tighten the bolts well in the middle of the manifold they will back out or leak. Not to mention the risk of warping your head and manifold. You need to see a professional or tighen the bolts yourself to equal torquing.

I feel you should see a machine shop to fix the broken stud in the turbo. Always thread everything by hand first and NEVER re-use exhaust hardware like nuts and bolts.

Your car will be fine to drive but will likely be pretty rich. Carbon buildup should be evident at your leak. With the car running and at idle often if you put your hand near the possible spots , you can feel the exhaust shoot out.
This may of been my longest post ever:-)

MyF355Spider

"little hand"....Wow! If that's all I needed, I'd be set! I didn't think I would run into this many problems. I knew there would be a few, but not this bad. I probably wouldn't have had so many if I would have gone with something more mainstream, like the APR kit, but it was all timing, and this seemed like the best solution at the time. If I would have known I was going to run into this many problems, I would taken it to a professional, but I am not sure they wouldn't have had some of the same problems. Also, I am not sure I could have afforded it. I at least have the car running to some extent, and will be taking it to an exhaust shop soon. I also have a friend with some tungsten drill bits. We are going to try to get that sucker out of the turbo. With the crap ATP manifold clearance, I really don't want to pull the whole manifold/turbo system...that's last resort. I am also not a slacker, and am going to try to do it right, assuming it is in my budget. Again, I thank you, all of you, for your advice, suggestions, and criticisms, because we all know we (I) get overambitious at times ;-) Also, I have used all new hardware, so no problems there. Final question, why will I be running rich, exactly? Does it have to do with the o2 sensors or what? I guess I don't see why an exhaust leak would cause running rich.
PS - I'm sure there have been longer!

xr4tic

just used a wrench.

It was the top nuts that were a PITA.

You absolutely want to eliminate all leaks. Not only will they cause warped surfaces (BTDT) they can throw the O2 sensor readings off by sucking outside air into the exhaust, which could lead to the ECU saying it's lean, but in reality it's not, and it will run too rich.

As for the bit, have you tried a good set of vise grips?

MyF355Spider

There is no where to grip with the vice grips, because it broke up inside.
Thanks again

markbradford

you should be able to feel exactly where it's coming from with your hand.

xr4tic

I just reached down under the manifold, and tightened the nuts.

SMOKINA4TURBO

Yea the richness is from what xr4tic said and also a simple way to think about it is a loss of energy. That energy will make the car spoolup slower. Heh btw the lower bolts on the manifold are easier to tighten then the top bolts. You can even use a extension with a socket and get to 2 of the 3 I believe. If you have screwed the nut up and stripped it a little save yourself the hassle and use a fresh nut.

WYSIWYG

with clean hands you will be find fresh black soot around your pipes