tuneda4

did a autox recently and it made me realize how much of a pig my car is. i honestly dont think putthing this car on a diet will help.

Audiboy

your sig pic makes me think you only need 100 lbs or less of compression to hit your bumpstop

In all honesty, you'll need to do a lot of work on a 1.8T B6 to make it competitive in AutoX, but it may do better on a road course. Main thing is suspension work. What you have won't cut it.
Then you need better and fatter tires to carry the weight. Your SPT's are better in the rain, one of the slowest in the dry (in a competive AutoX line). 235's will get you sideways as you overheat them and shave them off, 275's or wider will move you forward.
Weight reduction doesn't hurt, but depending on what class you want to compete in, you may be limited to maybe 200 lbs with seats, wheels, exhaust and a few items. Your current mods put you in SM, so strip away. You should be able to get your car down to 2900 legal in that class, but illegal in the street.

Here's what our TT looks like every other weekend. <a href="http://marypozzi.zenfolio.com/p309811116/?photo=h08F92BA8#150547368">click</a>

While it's not a trailer queen, and it never will be, it is very competitive locally against the true and dedicated AutoX supercars.

I'm not sure about your driving skills, but that helps a lot too. An example, our friend with his 180hp Impreza in DSP sets top times of the day at local events, and very competitive in National events. Despite my best efforts in beating my class, he can take out TT anytime and cut off another 1 - 2 seconds. Here's an old <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW4hLVXAAMg">vid</a> from 2006 when our car was still slow, but he took our 3400+lb with 235 street tires into a time besting the SM crowd of 46.0. I managed about 48's that day.

tuneda4

thanks for responding. i am not really looking to get hardcore into the scca. i would like to start off with doing a few club events with the pca and the bmw club(have a large amount of friends in both). my car is obviously set up as a dd/street car. What suspension setup do you think i should go with? the wheels i have in my sig are my daily wheels, when i did the autox i was using my stockers. talk to me about bumpstops. i was under the impression that i need to run them. i know with this current setup we had to cut them down however i was not sure i was able to remove them all together. i have a neuspeed rear sway in the car and i have a stasis center dif on order. what else do you think i should get (besides brakes as well). i am really new to all of this hwoever i would really like to transform this car. it sucks but the truth of the matter is it has no resale value so i might as well start enjoying it! thanks again for all your help.

also what wheels do you have on that tt?

Audiboy

They are there to provide suplementary spring rates in the range of ~1000 to ~2000 lb / in, to ease transition, and to protect the shock internals. If you are hitting them, it means the car is too low for your spring rates.

On your car, you need the fronts to carry 600 lbs per corner before compression.

This means if you have soft springs (like 300lb/in), you need at least 2.5 inches of travel before they hit the bumpstops (A4 springs are inbound, hence a shock ratio). If you want to have only 1 inch of travel, you need at least 700 lb springs. Your current picture says you have less than 1 inch of travel left. Anytime you bottom out a corner, that corner will push. If you think your car pushes like a pig, chances are it's because you have no suspension and all the weight of the car is relying on one outside tire, and this is after you rattled the chassis movement because of the sudden stop of the suspension. It's like you are trying to balance on one leg, and someone kicks your foot.

The shocks just have to match the spring rates. I'm not sure your FK's can, but if they can, max up the spring rates, then raise them up accordingly to handle the load.

Heavy sway bars are bandaids on a bad suspension. Use them to fine tune your car last after you work your springs and shocks first.

Then you need camber correction. Depending on your spring rates, your car will roll more or less. Once you determined how much roll you get, add camber kits to make sure your front tires are perpendicular to the ground on hard cornering.

Basically, maximize front tire grip, then tweak the rears to grip or give in case the car still pushes.

I have Rota 18x9.5 with 285 Kuhmo V710's on that pic. The car barely has 260-270hp, but matches or beats cars a lot lighter or even twice the power. Hp is easy for me later since I just have to do what everyone else does to get power.
Suspension tuning is key to going fast. That's how we won the 2004 1.8T Challenge with a friend's B5 beating tuner cars which have almost twice the power as our 255 whp stage III with a slipping clutch car.

quickaudi:STFA

*paging Eric Fletcher*