Wysiwyg, camber pics plus update on my camber links
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Wysiwyg, camber pics plus update on my camber links
I've been putting this one off for a while since I'm not doing any track events most likely `til March. However, the car is becoming quite dangerous to drive. The red aluminum locking nuts for the outer end links are cracked and loose because on turns and when suspension loaded, the nut would hit the other end link and work it's way loose. After about 3 weeks or so, the front end rattles and I have to tighten and in some cases readjust the camber links.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_l.jpg">
eeeh is that rust up there
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_l1.jpg">
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_r.jpg">
Notice that the bottom of the outer nuts (just above the eyeball bearing) are rounded because there is not enough angle travel for the end link housing . And if you look harder, you'll see the back side of the springs rubbing on the link - on turns.
So, welcome to Custom Performance Products Dave's a pretty good machinist and knows his metals too. Since most of my stuff is useable, specially the top of the line Aurora end links, Dave machined parts that would replace and make the camber kit safer and better.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_kit1.jpg">
notice the smaller machined stainless steel locking nuts.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_kit2.jpg">
We worked out the kinks of these end links. To start, in compliance with some race rules, a washer was placed to catch a failed end link - should the eyeball bearing wear out and fail. Then to address angle issues, Dave made tiny washers that go over the eyeball - which allowed the end link to flex about the same degrees as stock. Lastly, which I haven't installed yet, new spacers at the shock collar to move the end links further away from the spring. Here's what they look like installed.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_fix1.jpg">
ok, rust is still there until I put Dave's new spacers. Too cold right now ;P
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_fix_2.jpg">
I started quite late, so it's a bit dark. Here's what stock camber (1 degree) looks like vs. 3 degrees. I'll get better pics next time.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/1_deg.jpg">
...3 degrees
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/3_deg.jpg">
Another shot of 3 degrees camber.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/3_deg_A.jpg">
This is what I set them too now. 2 degrees camber + about 4.75 degrees of caster.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/2_deg.jpg">
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/2_deg_A.jpg">
BTW, here's a teaser pic. First person to identify this gets a cookie One of many products coming soon
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/rearsway1.jpg">
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_l.jpg">
eeeh is that rust up there
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_l1.jpg">
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/vtrg_r.jpg">
Notice that the bottom of the outer nuts (just above the eyeball bearing) are rounded because there is not enough angle travel for the end link housing . And if you look harder, you'll see the back side of the springs rubbing on the link - on turns.
So, welcome to Custom Performance Products Dave's a pretty good machinist and knows his metals too. Since most of my stuff is useable, specially the top of the line Aurora end links, Dave machined parts that would replace and make the camber kit safer and better.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_kit1.jpg">
notice the smaller machined stainless steel locking nuts.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_kit2.jpg">
We worked out the kinks of these end links. To start, in compliance with some race rules, a washer was placed to catch a failed end link - should the eyeball bearing wear out and fail. Then to address angle issues, Dave made tiny washers that go over the eyeball - which allowed the end link to flex about the same degrees as stock. Lastly, which I haven't installed yet, new spacers at the shock collar to move the end links further away from the spring. Here's what they look like installed.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_fix1.jpg">
ok, rust is still there until I put Dave's new spacers. Too cold right now ;P
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/cpp_fix_2.jpg">
I started quite late, so it's a bit dark. Here's what stock camber (1 degree) looks like vs. 3 degrees. I'll get better pics next time.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/1_deg.jpg">
...3 degrees
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/3_deg.jpg">
Another shot of 3 degrees camber.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/3_deg_A.jpg">
This is what I set them too now. 2 degrees camber + about 4.75 degrees of caster.
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/2_deg.jpg">
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/2_deg_A.jpg">
BTW, here's a teaser pic. First person to identify this gets a cookie One of many products coming soon
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/rearsway1.jpg">
#2
that's the plastic swaybar end link.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to "upgrade" to the older metal ones? I paid $70 for a pair used.
I'm sure the rod ends are far more superior on these but would there be any significant benefits from them?
I'm sure the rod ends are far more superior on these but would there be any significant benefits from them?
#3
Re: You should of seen the "titanium" ones I viewed last year in Germany! :o)
They were machined out of blocks of Ti, and looked awesome! They were even rubber boots for the end links to keep out dirt! Wish I was able
to photo....... No camera's were allowed in the pit area at the time.
to photo....... No camera's were allowed in the pit area at the time.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Perfect for AutoX but for everyday driving, too much. So I backed out to 2 degrees - still corners
damn good, even when I had my sister's 15" plastic tires he he.
5 turns of the center link shortens the whole rod by 5 * 1/16" (per rod) * 2 (ends) = 0.625" or 5/8" (16mm) to get 2 degrees. So, 1 degree is 8 mm
5 turns of the center link shortens the whole rod by 5 * 1/16" (per rod) * 2 (ends) = 0.625" or 5/8" (16mm) to get 2 degrees. So, 1 degree is 8 mm
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
About the same for a new pair of the old ones. But the old ones still flex. Plus...
with these, you can slightly adjust the stiffness of the bar by shortening the rod. Probably overkill on everyday folks, lookout for the upcomming speedvision cars though
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#8
I dont like those linking rods....I've seen them snap...
Don Istook ran them on his S4 race car. Busted the end clean off one of them. The problem is the joint does not allow the full range of motion that factory joint does and it snapped off.
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Was that after he ran the curb? They do offer the full range of motion unless someone has a really
long shock travel and tall springs, then the stock have about 2 degrees more travel. They are made with the same principle - a ball bearing and cup housing. BTW, every race car uses these links, specially Auroras. They are also popular in heavy equipment. Also, they come in all shapes and sizes to handle different loads.