(X-post from A4 B5) Got some SERIOUS issues after custom FMIC install --(read on)--
#1
(X-post from A4 B5) Got some SERIOUS issues after custom FMIC install --(read on)--
Got everything buttoned up tight..drive the car tonight (finally had some time to play with it on the HW) Before I had the chance to romp on it I realize my coolant AND oil temps are both going up!!! (Coolant got to the next mark right of center and oil hit 225 mark) Mind you I was doing all of 65-70 mph and it's all of 50 degrees out (earlier when this happened). The only thing I can think of that I effected was the cooling of the radiator which would in turn effect the coolant flowing through the oil cooler (raising it's temp). Looking at the way the core is mounted I can't push it any more back towards the radiator, and it looks like I may have a nasty pressure drop in the area behind the core (which is fvkcing with the cooling of the rad) OK guys..c'mon..theres some serious geniuses in here with some damn good ideas. A friend of mine suggested "speed holes" in the section of bumper where the front plate mounts to get some air flow to that part of the rad then using some sheet metal and making a piece that would divert air from the "speed holes" to the area BEHIND the IC core. Or my other Idea I had was moving the core at an angle (bottom of core moved out more than the top) and using sheetmetal to make piece that would scoop air from below the core and moving it up to the area behind it.
This is so damn frustrating...here I am with a 300+ hp car and I can't whoop up on it...guess this is the trial and error portion of custom fabing sh*t...huh? I was just about to get on it so I could here my new dump tube open up and and I see the coolant and oil temps start climbing.
Ideas guys?? or, justify/modify mine.
thx!
This is so damn frustrating...here I am with a 300+ hp car and I can't whoop up on it...guess this is the trial and error portion of custom fabing sh*t...huh? I was just about to get on it so I could here my new dump tube open up and and I see the coolant and oil temps start climbing.
Ideas guys?? or, justify/modify mine.
thx!
#2
Re: (X-post from A4 B5) Got some SERIOUS issues after custom FMIC install --(read on)--
What core are u using? The problem is more likely related to the core than reduced air flow to the rad. Many of us here run FMIC's without issue.
If you oil and water temps are scyrocketing look elsewhere than the fmic. Perhaps there is a blockage somewhere in your heat exchanger? Or its about to die the typical audi death and mix your oil and coolant.
I highly doubt you have an air flow issue - although you should check your fmic plumbing to ensure it also is not obstructed.
If you oil and water temps are scyrocketing look elsewhere than the fmic. Perhaps there is a blockage somewhere in your heat exchanger? Or its about to die the typical audi death and mix your oil and coolant.
I highly doubt you have an air flow issue - although you should check your fmic plumbing to ensure it also is not obstructed.
#5
got a stupid question for you. Have you checked the thermostat?...
I have an external WG setup w/ no dumptube.. just straight off a tial unit, and even when boosting hard to make it open (love that sound), the temps (oil and water) dont rise abnormally... My autometer gauges pick up a little bit of temp fluctuations, but the factory IP never shows it.
#6
eh, I knew I shoulda read more first...
I thought you were referring to a wastegate for a turbo. I see that you are talking about the ATP exhuast dump tube.
I've been working on another car lately which doesnt seem to boost (wastegate seems to be opening too early), and the tips I got were to plug up a nipple and use the boost reference on the other nipple to keep it shut (more boost... just for testing)
-and for less boost (open your dump tube sooner)... unplug the lower nipple and just hook up a boost controller to the outer nipple.
I guess you should see how ATP set theirs up as well. Good luck~
I've been working on another car lately which doesnt seem to boost (wastegate seems to be opening too early), and the tips I got were to plug up a nipple and use the boost reference on the other nipple to keep it shut (more boost... just for testing)
-and for less boost (open your dump tube sooner)... unplug the lower nipple and just hook up a boost controller to the outer nipple.
I guess you should see how ATP set theirs up as well. Good luck~
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#8
Re: A couple ideas,
1. Check to make sure you didnt unplug or rip any of the wires specifically by where you ran the tubing up from the radiator to the throttle body. Make sure your 2ndary electric fan is kicking on. It should tyurn on at 170 degree's, Sounds like its not to me. Coolant temp sensor going south or maaybe your waterpump has decided to take a poop, how many miles are on the car?
Although there are always extreme cases, I still havent heard of someeones intercooler affecting temps at all, esp. as bad as you got. I run a really large core and never had an issue.
All you really need is about a 1/4" of space between the radiator and intercooler.
Although there are always extreme cases, I still havent heard of someeones intercooler affecting temps at all, esp. as bad as you got. I run a really large core and never had an issue.
All you really need is about a 1/4" of space between the radiator and intercooler.
#9
I'm going to try and answer all the questions-->
Last time I changed coolant was maybe 2 mths ago, water pump (actually..the ENTIRE ENGINE is new as of june last year). I'm running a stock bumper thats cut to fit the core. Core size is 22 x 2.5 x 6.5ish
it's not that big...but I have a 3/4 to 1 inch gap between it and the rad (a/c condensor removed for what I thought would be more airflow.)
it's not that big...but I have a 3/4 to 1 inch gap between it and the rad (a/c condensor removed for what I thought would be more airflow.)
#10
Coolant temp sensor replaced a month ago, the car has 85K on it-->
the engine has about 20k on it. As for my secondary fan...I don't remember it ever turning on except for when the A/C is on.
Around town the temps stay fine...only on the HW do they go up. If I have a blockage INSIDE the IC core..could that cause sh*t to go south???
Around town the temps stay fine...only on the HW do they go up. If I have a blockage INSIDE the IC core..could that cause sh*t to go south???