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XP: Getting a VERY loud ticking from the cylinder nearest the firewall when idled after a run.

Old 02-15-2001, 06:57 AM
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Default XP: Getting a VERY loud ticking from the cylinder nearest the firewall when idled after a run.

After driving for a while and then idling for about a minute, the engine ticks (not the airbox tick - MUCH louder) VERY loudly from the cylinder nearest the firewall.

Any suggestion before I take it into the dealer???

BTW - I'm running Mobil 1 5W-30, in Canada.
Old 02-15-2001, 08:16 AM
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Default Do you have a paper towel center carton lying around? Use it as a stethoscope...

By placing your ear on one side and the engine on the other. Move it around and try to locate the loudest area. See if it only over the #4 valve area.

A "click" by your definition is kinda hard to pinpoint unless you give more detail. Does it's frequency follow the engine RPM if you slowly increase or decrease throttle? Maybe it's the injector, which I doubt would be as loud as you describe it.

My worries are it is something loose in the valve train or a failing hydraulic lifter increasing the gap from the cam to the valve. You can still drive something like that - to the dealer. But if you have a broken piece floating around in there, you shouldn't.

No I don't use the paper towels because I have my MAC built stethoscope so I look more professional :P
Old 02-15-2001, 08:53 AM
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Default If it was my old Integra...

Hiya,

Auidboy is correct, but I'd like to add a question/suggestion. The valve train on the Honda/Acura 1.8L VTEC is adjustable for cam clearance, failure to do this would result in the sort of noise you describe. The question is, does the Audi 5V/cylinder require the same periodic adjustment?

Any noise=wear, so I'd get this thing to the shop and get a loaner ASAP.

Good Luck
Mike
Old 02-15-2001, 08:58 AM
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Default a broken or loose spark plug will also sound like a "tic". Pull the plug nearest...

the tic sound, being careful to notice if its loose ( if it is you can remove it with an extension by hand without a wrench). If its snug remove it and check it's ceramic insulator. Wouldn't be the first cracked one and it can cause early/premature failing of its boot if cylinder/combustion charge is leaking through the spark plug into its rubber/silicone spark plug boot.

Never hurts to check all the spark plugs for tightness while you're there.
Old 02-15-2001, 09:09 AM
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Default does it sound like it's coming from the injector area?

Maybe you have a bad injector. It could also be an exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold. Maybe it's the cam chain or sprocket in the back? If it is, be very careful, or you could kiss your intake valves goodbye.
Old 02-15-2001, 09:47 AM
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Default I posted response in A4 Forum...

<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/forum/m/a4/msgs/444731.phtml">https://www.audiworld.com/forum/m/a4/msgs/444731.phtml</a</li></ul>
Old 02-15-2001, 10:00 AM
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Default Spark plug tightness is a good idea.

When I changed mine one was quite loose. I hadn't noticed any noise, but the rear one came out with little/no effort. Apparently that's a common problem with this head.

Good luck,
Rich
Old 02-15-2001, 10:07 AM
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I have heard this (very loud) in Miata's...It's the lifters, they get "sticky"...
Old 02-15-2001, 10:59 AM
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Default Re: XP: Getting a VERY loud ticking from the cylinder nearest the firewall when idled after a run.

I got a simular noise from near the firewall around the area below the coolant reservoir(remember even though it seems like it's coming from there it might be somewhere else because of all the other noises when the engine is on). I don't remember when this happens but I think it's after idling after driving the car for a while. I think it's only noticable if I lift the hood and more so with the engine cover off. I speculate this has to do with the oil pressure and it might be the hydralic lifter tapping due to the lower OP and/or low viscocity oil? On cold start up the oil pressure is quite high but idling after the car is warm the oil pressure would drop. I know on my Mercedes Diesel upon cold start up the OP is more than 3bar(gauge only goes up to 3bar so it could be way more, like 60psi) but after the car warms up it idles around 2 to 2.5 bar. I switched to 0W-30 after installing the APR stageIII from 10W-30 so that could also contribute to the noise. It seems it went away now somehow but this might be due to the warmer temperature now. What oil are you running? try to go up 1 grade thicker and see if the problem is still there. Also does anyone if there's a datablock for oil pressure?
Old 02-15-2001, 11:03 AM
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Default

btw, my noise is definitely not the EVAP valve tapping.

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