Best Front Brake pad options for '14 SQ5?
#1
Best Front Brake pad options for '14 SQ5?
Hello fellow SQ5 owners,
I need your help. I need to replace my front brake pads (currently at 4mm) and rotors on my SQ5 and am unwilling to pay the $1200 quoted me by the dealer this week. What are my options? Should I upgrade to Brembos in the front with matching rotors? Please advise.
I need your help. I need to replace my front brake pads (currently at 4mm) and rotors on my SQ5 and am unwilling to pay the $1200 quoted me by the dealer this week. What are my options? Should I upgrade to Brembos in the front with matching rotors? Please advise.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Hello fellow SQ5 owners,
I need your help. I need to replace my front brake pads (currently at 4mm) and rotors on my SQ5 and am unwilling to pay the $1200 quoted me by the dealer this week. What are my options? Should I upgrade to Brembos in the front with matching rotors? Please advise.
I need your help. I need to replace my front brake pads (currently at 4mm) and rotors on my SQ5 and am unwilling to pay the $1200 quoted me by the dealer this week. What are my options? Should I upgrade to Brembos in the front with matching rotors? Please advise.
#3
22K on pads and 22K on rotors. Thus far the rotors don't seem like they are shot. I just had the free brake flush as part of the 45K service. I have some squeaking of the front brakes but it is not unbearable.
#4
AudiWorld Super User
What is the rotor thickness measurement (or wear amount)? 22K does not equal new rotors typically. An ethical dealer should give you the current rotor wear if they are suggesting new rotors. But, honestly I am not really following your post + reply either. How many miles are actually on the car? You say 22K on rotors and 45K service. Logically the rotors have been changed earlier (and someone likely got a story about need to do so back then), or your service was actually by time rather than (lower) miles. Brake fluid BTW is every two years, as opposed to a miles point. Tends to get done at the 25K (two year) and 45K (4 year) services. But the actual factor is as a 2014 you are basically on the second pass for fluid change.
FWIW discounted Audi parts all in via a web dealer are in the $600 range, even if you need rotors--if you can DIY, or have an indy do it. If you are thinking Brembo, you must be thinking DIY or indy already. Brembo is like 3x your highish dealer quote, and 5x the on line discounted genuine parts here. Doesn't really compute beyond the bling, an an SUV is not typically a track candidate either.
FWIW discounted Audi parts all in via a web dealer are in the $600 range, even if you need rotors--if you can DIY, or have an indy do it. If you are thinking Brembo, you must be thinking DIY or indy already. Brembo is like 3x your highish dealer quote, and 5x the on line discounted genuine parts here. Doesn't really compute beyond the bling, an an SUV is not typically a track candidate either.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-29-2018 at 10:20 PM.
#5
As a point of reference, I have 116K miles on my 2014 SQ5...and have only replaced the front rotors 1x...around 55K.
I'm probably due to replace them again soon...I say probably b/c I just jinxed myself by mentioning it!
Seriously, I'll most likely due my brakes again at 120K, which will be the 2nd time.
Something doesn't sound right with your schedule.
Jason
New York
I'm probably due to replace them again soon...I say probably b/c I just jinxed myself by mentioning it!
Seriously, I'll most likely due my brakes again at 120K, which will be the 2nd time.
Something doesn't sound right with your schedule.
Jason
New York
#6
What is the rotor thickness measurement (or wear amount)? 22K does not equal new rotors typically. An ethical dealer should give you the current rotor wear if they are suggesting new rotors. But, honestly I am not really following your post + reply either. How many miles are actually on the car? You say 22K on rotors and 45K service. Logically the rotors have been changed earlier (and someone likely got a story about need to do so back then), or your service was actually by time rather than (lower) miles. Brake fluid BTW is every two years, as opposed to a miles point. Tends to get done at the 25K (two year) and 45K (4 year) services. But the actual factor is as a 2014 you are basically on the second pass for fluid change.
FWIW discounted Audi parts all in via a web dealer are in the $600 range, even if you need rotors--if you can DIY, or have an indy do it. If you are thinking Brembo, you must be thinking DIY or indy already. Brembo is like 3x your highish dealer quote, and 5x the on line discounted genuine parts here. Doesn't really compute beyond the bling, an an SUV is not typically a track candidate either.
FWIW discounted Audi parts all in via a web dealer are in the $600 range, even if you need rotors--if you can DIY, or have an indy do it. If you are thinking Brembo, you must be thinking DIY or indy already. Brembo is like 3x your highish dealer quote, and 5x the on line discounted genuine parts here. Doesn't really compute beyond the bling, an an SUV is not typically a track candidate either.
I'm seriously considering the DIY approach since I don't want to spend over a grand to replace them.
#7
As a point of reference, I have 116K miles on my 2014 SQ5...and have only replaced the front rotors 1x...around 55K.
I'm probably due to replace them again soon...I say probably b/c I just jinxed myself by mentioning it!
Seriously, I'll most likely due my brakes again at 120K, which will be the 2nd time.
Something doesn't sound right with your schedule.
Jason
New York
I'm probably due to replace them again soon...I say probably b/c I just jinxed myself by mentioning it!
Seriously, I'll most likely due my brakes again at 120K, which will be the 2nd time.
Something doesn't sound right with your schedule.
Jason
New York
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
The time is about 30 mins for front pads and rotors. My mechanic charges only pads.
I acquire the rotors online, sometimes with brake pads.
I acquire the rotors online, sometimes with brake pads.
#9
AudiWorld Super User
You should measure your rotors for wear, but at 22K miles apparently on the rotors it is reasonable to assume they do not currently need replacing. My long time rule of thumb on Audis is two sets of pads between rotor changes, and still generally consistent with rotor wear spec's. Both given the modest miles on these rotors and that it sounds like they were already changed the last time, should be pads only.
On pads, you have a choice between dealer OE and a variety of aftermarket. If you still do dealer for the work (at a much lower price w/out rotors), the pads will obviously be theirs. The rotors are where they are essentially sole sourced with Audi for various reasons. OE pads have advantage of solid performance and relatively linear and progressive feel, and typical disadvantage of dust. You can also get OES from third parties, which variously can be companies like Ate, TRW, Brembo, Ferodo and others. Others will be lower dust. Pads are one of those religious debates among brands and owners.
Your noise is likely to be just the pads BTW. Variously, may need lubrication at the mechanical friction points, backing buffer material may have worn or shifted, piston is further out in the caliper and may be a bit more vulnerable to minor oscillation, etc.
On pads, you have a choice between dealer OE and a variety of aftermarket. If you still do dealer for the work (at a much lower price w/out rotors), the pads will obviously be theirs. The rotors are where they are essentially sole sourced with Audi for various reasons. OE pads have advantage of solid performance and relatively linear and progressive feel, and typical disadvantage of dust. You can also get OES from third parties, which variously can be companies like Ate, TRW, Brembo, Ferodo and others. Others will be lower dust. Pads are one of those religious debates among brands and owners.
Your noise is likely to be just the pads BTW. Variously, may need lubrication at the mechanical friction points, backing buffer material may have worn or shifted, piston is further out in the caliper and may be a bit more vulnerable to minor oscillation, etc.
#10
You should measure your rotors for wear, but at 22K miles apparently on the rotors it is reasonable to assume they do not currently need replacing. My long time rule of thumb on Audis is two sets of pads between rotor changes, and still generally consistent with rotor wear spec's. Both given the modest miles on these rotors and that it sounds like they were already changed the last time, should be pads only.
On pads, you have a choice between dealer OE and a variety of aftermarket. If you still do dealer for the work (at a much lower price w/out rotors), the pads will obviously be theirs. The rotors are where they are essentially sole sourced with Audi for various reasons. OE pads have advantage of solid performance and relatively linear and progressive feel, and typical disadvantage of dust. You can also get OES from third parties, which variously can be companies like Ate, TRW, Brembo, Ferodo and others. Others will be lower dust. Pads are one of those religious debates among brands and owners.
Your noise is likely to be just the pads BTW. Variously, may need lubrication at the mechanical friction points, backing buffer material may have worn or shifted, piston is further out in the caliper and may be a bit more vulnerable to minor oscillation, etc.
On pads, you have a choice between dealer OE and a variety of aftermarket. If you still do dealer for the work (at a much lower price w/out rotors), the pads will obviously be theirs. The rotors are where they are essentially sole sourced with Audi for various reasons. OE pads have advantage of solid performance and relatively linear and progressive feel, and typical disadvantage of dust. You can also get OES from third parties, which variously can be companies like Ate, TRW, Brembo, Ferodo and others. Others will be lower dust. Pads are one of those religious debates among brands and owners.
Your noise is likely to be just the pads BTW. Variously, may need lubrication at the mechanical friction points, backing buffer material may have worn or shifted, piston is further out in the caliper and may be a bit more vulnerable to minor oscillation, etc.