Redd

Bostik, who make "NeverSeez", have a PDF available on how this affects torque settings. Basically you can reduce the torque setting, sometimes up to 25%, or leave it at the "dry" torque setting and gain more clamping force.

Personally I've been working on the same big bottle of Permatex Anti-Seize (using it sparingly, as directed, because it migrates all over the place) for 20+ years on wheel studs and never had one come loose, or gall. I have no patience for an overtorqued galled lug nut that leaves you stuck for a simple spare tire.

Takes me about one hour, working without any hurry, to change all four tires using just the scissor jack that came with the (last) car. No trip to the tire shop, no waiting at the tire shop, no retorquing the wheels, because in those same 20 years of putting on my snow tires after someone pulled one wheel to do an annual state inspection? I found only two shops that properly torqued the wheels after they pulled them. And one highly certified dealership (not Audi, but a respected brand) that torqued the wheel at nearly 50% over spec, and then swore they couldn't have done that and they'd never had a complaint about it before.

I think it has been 20 ? years since Ford put out a big notification to all their dealers that excess torqueing will cause the rotors to warp, so the "universal" practice of making them as tight as you can, is just a great way to get brake rotor business.

I'll take the $60 and go out to dinner with it when I'm done, thank you.

Redd

http://www.bostik-us.com/sites/defau...ure%202011.pdf

Ooops, forgot the Bostik link.