07-25-2016, 01:00 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Audi How to Install Remote Start<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
DIY Remote start Q5
06-07-2016, 07:10 PM
#21
I agree with jimdolian
unneeded with today's vehicles
vehicles DO NOT have issues starting anymore.
it is is total waste of energy to pre start and a lot of extra pollution
you get ZERO MPG while parked.
that is also why many vehicles including the Q5 now have auto shut-off at red lights
its the law here in ONT to shut your car off if its idle for more that 60 sec while driving
unneeded with today's vehicles
vehicles DO NOT have issues starting anymore.
it is is total waste of energy to pre start and a lot of extra pollution
you get ZERO MPG while parked.
that is also why many vehicles including the Q5 now have auto shut-off at red lights
its the law here in ONT to shut your car off if its idle for more that 60 sec while driving
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AvidDaisy (08-21-2019)
06-08-2016, 10:24 AM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
"Please, lets not start arguing if idling the engine too long will cause carbon build up or oil consumption, kill the trees that is next to the vehicle, or if we have to move down south,etc."
As the OP aid in the original post.
Or as the ADHD therapists say, FOCUS, PLEASE.
This thread is about the mechanics of a remote starting system. Whetner that is a good, bad, or even NECESSARY thing, all depends on the user. I know one disabled driver who MUST REMOTE START their van, in order to provide battery power to the electric lift that they must use to enter the van. And if they don't start the van before using that lift, they get a dead battery every couple of weeks. And if they don't prestart the air conditioning before they enter that van (in the scorching desert sun) they have to sit and wait inside for it to cool down, or they pass out.
Oh, gee, you never think of things like this. Apparently, never does Audi.
Which might be why the OP asked people to please RESTRAIN YOUR FOCUS to the mechanics of the issue. Save the politics for a better time and place, please.
As the OP aid in the original post.
Or as the ADHD therapists say, FOCUS, PLEASE.
This thread is about the mechanics of a remote starting system. Whetner that is a good, bad, or even NECESSARY thing, all depends on the user. I know one disabled driver who MUST REMOTE START their van, in order to provide battery power to the electric lift that they must use to enter the van. And if they don't start the van before using that lift, they get a dead battery every couple of weeks. And if they don't prestart the air conditioning before they enter that van (in the scorching desert sun) they have to sit and wait inside for it to cool down, or they pass out.
Oh, gee, you never think of things like this. Apparently, never does Audi.
Which might be why the OP asked people to please RESTRAIN YOUR FOCUS to the mechanics of the issue. Save the politics for a better time and place, please.
The following 3 users liked this post by Redd:
06-08-2016, 08:08 PM
#23
AudiWorld Member
Pointing out that extended periods of idling a cold engine have an adverse impact is clearly an appropriate point to make for the benefit of those who may be considering adding a remote start to their vehicle. If the individual has a compelling medical issue which requires running a cold engine repeatedly for extended periods of time, that may of course override any other consideration. My guess, however, is that the vast majority of those participating in this forum do not fall into that category.
06-08-2016, 08:49 PM
#24
AudiWorld Super User
To me, "extended periods of idling" mean the eight hours that a tractor trailer rig sits idling overnight while the driver crags a nap in the back.
Five, ten, even fifteen minutes waiting for the owner to come out, is not "extended" idling. It is what most places call "standing" as opposed to being shut off.
If that kind of idling damages a modern diesel engine--then the engine design is junk. With the marine diesels of 30-40 years ago, "extended" idling for hours used to build up carbon deposits and ruin engines, sure. But even ten years ago, Detroit (I forget which one) was advertising diesel pickup trucks with built-in generator sets, and they said expressly that extended idling and low-speed low-load running to keep the generator online would *not* hurt the new designs.
Audi seems to speak with forked tongues. They're so technologically advanced...or, they're so frail. Can't have it both ways.
OEM remote starters will also shut an engine down in a short period (i.e. 5-10 minutes) if the owner doesn't come out and take over. As a precaution against mischief and accidents and, yes, preventing a fire in case you've parked with the catalytic converter over a pile of dry leaves. If the kludge has no similar provision...score another one against Audi technology, this is another reason to "do it right" and offer it to the customer as OEM equipment that anticipates these things.
Five, ten, even fifteen minutes waiting for the owner to come out, is not "extended" idling. It is what most places call "standing" as opposed to being shut off.
If that kind of idling damages a modern diesel engine--then the engine design is junk. With the marine diesels of 30-40 years ago, "extended" idling for hours used to build up carbon deposits and ruin engines, sure. But even ten years ago, Detroit (I forget which one) was advertising diesel pickup trucks with built-in generator sets, and they said expressly that extended idling and low-speed low-load running to keep the generator online would *not* hurt the new designs.
Audi seems to speak with forked tongues. They're so technologically advanced...or, they're so frail. Can't have it both ways.
OEM remote starters will also shut an engine down in a short period (i.e. 5-10 minutes) if the owner doesn't come out and take over. As a precaution against mischief and accidents and, yes, preventing a fire in case you've parked with the catalytic converter over a pile of dry leaves. If the kludge has no similar provision...score another one against Audi technology, this is another reason to "do it right" and offer it to the customer as OEM equipment that anticipates these things.
06-09-2016, 12:21 AM
#25
AudiWorld Member
The original post did not specify whether the owner had a diesel or a gas engine. I have very little experience with diesel engines so can't comment on the impact of repeated, prolonged periods of idling a cold diesel engine. But the manufacturer of every gas engine car I ever owned over a sixty year period cautioned against this practice with a gas engine. That amounts to roughly 30 cars from 20 manufacturers, both domestic and foreign. The consistent guidance from the manufacturers was to get in the car and drive it at moderate RPMs until the engine reached full operating temperature. Most owners manuals explicitly warn against prolonged periods idling a cold engine. I have followed that advice religiously and have never experience a major engine problem. I might add that I drive my cars for at least 200,000 miles before considering replacing them so maintaining the engine in the best possible condition is an important consideration for me. If you trade cars in every couple of years, you probably don't need to be concerned.
06-09-2016, 02:30 AM
#26
Audiworld Junior Member
I don't think some of you know what real cold is. Walk across a long parking lot when it's -20 or -30 with 20 or 30 knot winds, wind chills of -60 or -70 jump in a cold car and the seat is like a cement block. A warm seat and a little heat is a very nice luxury. The car is so stiff it hardly moves, I firmly believe to not let the car run a bit is abusing it. My daily driver old vw Jetta TDI has spent hours in sub zero weather idling, sometimes 8 hours. It's worth a few bucks in gas to know you got a way to get 50 miles to home at 2 in the morning. At nearly 300,000 miles it still runs good and doesn't use any oil, more then you can say for some newer gas engines. A remote start option is one I'd gladly pay for.
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Hconnickjr (03-03-2020)
06-09-2016, 08:10 AM
#27
AudiWorld Member
I don't think some of you know what real cold is. Walk across a long parking lot when it's -20 or -30 with 20 or 30 knot winds, wind chills of -60 or -70 jump in a cold car and the seat is like a cement block. A warm seat and a little heat is a very nice luxury. The car is so stiff it hardly moves, I firmly believe to not let the car run a bit is abusing it. My daily driver old vw Jetta TDI has spent hours in sub zero weather idling, sometimes 8 hours. It's worth a few bucks in gas to know you got a way to get 50 miles to home at 2 in the morning. At nearly 300,000 miles it still runs good and doesn't use any oil, more then you can say for some newer gas engines. A remote start option is one I'd gladly pay for.
06-09-2016, 12:37 PM
#28
AudiWorld Super User
Well, back before WW2, the US Navy took issue with the ways that cars and trucks were being built. So they issued two purchasing requirements. Not laws, not edicts, not presidential executive orders, just purchasing requirements.
1-All vehicles offered for sale to the USN shall be capable of full operation within 20 seconds of starting time. (This to allow proper oil pressure AND other issues like adequate warm-up.)
2- All vehicles offered for sale to the USN shall have twelve volt negative ground electrical systems.
Funny thing, these became Detroit standards almost immediately and spread around the world, with the VW Beetle being the last hold-out, AFAIK. Apparently **** car makers didn't care about USN procurement standards.
But the idea of "prolonged idling" on a "cold" engine is kinda funny. My last riceburner took a whole 5 minutes, or five miles, to come up to full temperature and heat in the dead of winter. A nice big GM V8 could do that in 30 seconds. A 1980's Peugot still came with a canvas "bra" that you zipped up in front of the radiator in the winter, because the thermal management on the engine was so poor it couldn't warm up AT ALL without manual intervention.
So if the mass-market gasoline engines typically take 1-5 minutes to warm up and reach thermal stability...what's prolonged idling really mean? And, following the advice of Blackstone Labs, I got rid of a "fuel and water" problem in my engine oil (not this car) by simply making sure it was never taken out for less than a 15-minute run. Yes, it can take that long to cook off normal oil contamination and overnight condensation in a normal engine.
That would seem like an hour or three, not ten or fifteen minutes. And let's face it, no one likes the gas bill for letting the car just sit there and run. Sounds like FUD compounded with mythology and so few real abusers, that they couldn't get enough hands for even one poker game.
1-All vehicles offered for sale to the USN shall be capable of full operation within 20 seconds of starting time. (This to allow proper oil pressure AND other issues like adequate warm-up.)
2- All vehicles offered for sale to the USN shall have twelve volt negative ground electrical systems.
Funny thing, these became Detroit standards almost immediately and spread around the world, with the VW Beetle being the last hold-out, AFAIK. Apparently **** car makers didn't care about USN procurement standards.
But the idea of "prolonged idling" on a "cold" engine is kinda funny. My last riceburner took a whole 5 minutes, or five miles, to come up to full temperature and heat in the dead of winter. A nice big GM V8 could do that in 30 seconds. A 1980's Peugot still came with a canvas "bra" that you zipped up in front of the radiator in the winter, because the thermal management on the engine was so poor it couldn't warm up AT ALL without manual intervention.
So if the mass-market gasoline engines typically take 1-5 minutes to warm up and reach thermal stability...what's prolonged idling really mean? And, following the advice of Blackstone Labs, I got rid of a "fuel and water" problem in my engine oil (not this car) by simply making sure it was never taken out for less than a 15-minute run. Yes, it can take that long to cook off normal oil contamination and overnight condensation in a normal engine.
That would seem like an hour or three, not ten or fifteen minutes. And let's face it, no one likes the gas bill for letting the car just sit there and run. Sounds like FUD compounded with mythology and so few real abusers, that they couldn't get enough hands for even one poker game.
Last edited by Redd; 06-09-2016 at 12:40 PM.
12-12-2018, 01:56 PM
#29
AudiWorld Junior Member
Now there is a way to not loose a key
I just had some time for myself and hooked up a remote start for my Q.
So I'd figured since winter is coming soon and have seen quite a few thread people asking about it, I would do a write up. Since alot, if not all, dealers will not install one, this could help out some folks.
Please, lets not start arguing if idling the engine too long will cause carbon build up or oil consumption, kill the trees that is next to the vehicle, or if we have to move down south,etc.
Remote start is a luxury and there is only 2 reason why a person needs it:
1. It is F'in freezing!
2. It is hot as hell! (Less likely to be the reason)
Side note: I do not work for a shop, I have done about a dozen or so remote start on friends and family vehicle and the Q is by far the easiest I have ever done. Maybe technology have caught up making the install simpler.
Parts:
DBALL2 $50 (will come blank, will need to be flash)
XKLoader2 $25 (use for flashing software to the dball2)
Optional - Smartstart add-on to the dball2 for used with smartphone $200
- XL202 add-on to dball2 for range booster, used with aftermarket remote (viper,python avital) *this is what Im using because the OEM remote range is very limited and I like the 2way confirmation so i don't have to look outside to see if the car had started* My OEM FOB will still work with 3x lock to start.
http://www.directechs.com
This is the website to download the flashing software for your vehicle.
Download the XpressVIP (its a web base software)
*ONLY works with windows explorer*
Create an account, its free.
Enter your vehicle info and instruction wiring diagram for RSR will be listed.
M8 Triple square bit
T25 bit
8mm, 10mm socket
12v relay 30amp with harness
3x 1amp Diodes
SOldering iron
Electric tape
*You need to give up a valet key or a fob key* There is no hack around German cars. I used a FOB with battery removed because I didn't have a valet key when I purchased my car used.
Courtesy of http://http://12vsupport.blogspot.co...ote-start.html shows what you are getting into.
Use this guide but some part wasn't clear and I will post them up to clear things up.
Please solder all connections 1 wire at a time and tape it up.
Most of the wire for the install is just tapping in.
1. Remove panel and bracket under steering wheel per instruction on Courtesy website
2. Removing the vents. This is tricky, I thought it was just the outside covers but its not. You will need to wedge the screwdriver deep down to catch the side and wedge the whole thing out. Push it to the side because there is a wire thats glued on to it.
Attachment 75171
3.Remove the key cover and remove the top 8mm bolt. Push the ignition back and pull it out underneath.
Attachment 75172
Attachment 75173
Removing the ignition harness: pull the red tab out and then press in the black release tab. Remember to lock down the red tab when installing back.
4. Wrapping the FOB and ignition. I used 22guage solid copper core for best signal.
Attachment 75174
Now for the ignition, the Courtesy website and Dball2 instruction states to wrap the ends of the ignition like this but for some odd reason, while testing with the ignition dangling on the bottom, everything works. But when I put the ignition back into the slot and bolt it back, RSR did NOT work.
Attachment 75175
After trouble shooting for an hour, this works flawlessly !!
Attachment 75176
5. Wiring * study the diagram hard* its really simple once you looked through them thoroughly.
the 3 Diodes to isolate the 3 ignition wires, tap in at the ignition harness
Attachment 75177
Attachment 75178
the 2 CAN wire are in the bunch of wires nearest to the door. There should be a about 3 or 4 pair of twisted set. Look for the orange/green, orange brown twisted set and tap it in.
Attachment 75179
Ignition Harness
Attachment 75180
Wire up the relay, I used type 2 for no reason.
I cut the gray/yellow
tap in the 3 wires from the 3x diodes
I didnt use the black pin harness on the dball because i was lazy to look for the hood wire.
**Again the instructions Im posting here is just adding on to the Courtesy site http://http://12vsupport.blogspot.co...ote-start.html so just follow there.
Cost under $180 (w/ optional XL202 , 6211t antenna, viper 2way remote)
And a few hours.
So I'd figured since winter is coming soon and have seen quite a few thread people asking about it, I would do a write up. Since alot, if not all, dealers will not install one, this could help out some folks.
Please, lets not start arguing if idling the engine too long will cause carbon build up or oil consumption, kill the trees that is next to the vehicle, or if we have to move down south,etc.
Remote start is a luxury and there is only 2 reason why a person needs it:
1. It is F'in freezing!
2. It is hot as hell! (Less likely to be the reason)
Side note: I do not work for a shop, I have done about a dozen or so remote start on friends and family vehicle and the Q is by far the easiest I have ever done. Maybe technology have caught up making the install simpler.
Parts:
DBALL2 $50 (will come blank, will need to be flash)
XKLoader2 $25 (use for flashing software to the dball2)
Optional - Smartstart add-on to the dball2 for used with smartphone $200
- XL202 add-on to dball2 for range booster, used with aftermarket remote (viper,python avital) *this is what Im using because the OEM remote range is very limited and I like the 2way confirmation so i don't have to look outside to see if the car had started* My OEM FOB will still work with 3x lock to start.
http://www.directechs.com
This is the website to download the flashing software for your vehicle.
Download the XpressVIP (its a web base software)
*ONLY works with windows explorer*
Create an account, its free.
Enter your vehicle info and instruction wiring diagram for RSR will be listed.
M8 Triple square bit
T25 bit
8mm, 10mm socket
12v relay 30amp with harness
3x 1amp Diodes
SOldering iron
Electric tape
*You need to give up a valet key or a fob key* There is no hack around German cars. I used a FOB with battery removed because I didn't have a valet key when I purchased my car used.
Courtesy of http://http://12vsupport.blogspot.co...ote-start.html shows what you are getting into.
Use this guide but some part wasn't clear and I will post them up to clear things up.
Please solder all connections 1 wire at a time and tape it up.
Most of the wire for the install is just tapping in.
1. Remove panel and bracket under steering wheel per instruction on Courtesy website
2. Removing the vents. This is tricky, I thought it was just the outside covers but its not. You will need to wedge the screwdriver deep down to catch the side and wedge the whole thing out. Push it to the side because there is a wire thats glued on to it.
Attachment 75171
3.Remove the key cover and remove the top 8mm bolt. Push the ignition back and pull it out underneath.
Attachment 75172
Attachment 75173
Removing the ignition harness: pull the red tab out and then press in the black release tab. Remember to lock down the red tab when installing back.
4. Wrapping the FOB and ignition. I used 22guage solid copper core for best signal.
Attachment 75174
Now for the ignition, the Courtesy website and Dball2 instruction states to wrap the ends of the ignition like this but for some odd reason, while testing with the ignition dangling on the bottom, everything works. But when I put the ignition back into the slot and bolt it back, RSR did NOT work.
Attachment 75175
After trouble shooting for an hour, this works flawlessly !!
Attachment 75176
5. Wiring * study the diagram hard* its really simple once you looked through them thoroughly.
the 3 Diodes to isolate the 3 ignition wires, tap in at the ignition harness
Attachment 75177
Attachment 75178
the 2 CAN wire are in the bunch of wires nearest to the door. There should be a about 3 or 4 pair of twisted set. Look for the orange/green, orange brown twisted set and tap it in.
Attachment 75179
Ignition Harness
Attachment 75180
Wire up the relay, I used type 2 for no reason.
I cut the gray/yellow
tap in the 3 wires from the 3x diodes
I didnt use the black pin harness on the dball because i was lazy to look for the hood wire.
**Again the instructions Im posting here is just adding on to the Courtesy site http://http://12vsupport.blogspot.co...ote-start.html so just follow there.
Cost under $180 (w/ optional XL202 , 6211t antenna, viper 2way remote)
And a few hours.
IDatastart CMVWXA0 or look on the idathstart website and get one that works for you and you dont loose a key I have a 2012 a6 and didn't lose the key and I can remote start the car with my OEM keyfob or aftermarket remote
12-14-2018, 06:27 AM
#30
