wilzon

I need to replace my Left front axle. what are my options, could i get it fixed or Is buying a new one my only option, if so where is a good place to buy it from so I won't have to spend a lot of money buying it from the dealer. thank you

Dudealicious

You might be able to get away with just replacing the boot as long as you haven't driven on the blown one for too long. Replacing that shouldn't take more than an hour. I'd first remove the axle bolt, turn the wheel as far right as it'll go and see if the CV will pop out. If not you might have to also remove a ball joint or 2 as well as the brake caliper to give yourself some more wiggle room.

Boot kit from Auto Zone shouldn't run you more than $25. Extra CV grease wouldn't hurt as well. And get an alignment done after.

If you need to replace the CV joint as well you're looking at around $100. ECS Tuning is a good place to look. Unless you want OEM then open up your wallet and be prepared to spend upwards of $700. And that's just for the joint assembly. No axle.

JoeRJGR1

I appreciate all the advice on this forum...Just wondering why you would recommend an alignment after a boot replacement?

Dudealicious

When you loosen any ball joints you're messing with the camber, toe and/or caster which would result in abnormal tire wear.

MP4.2+6.0

No alignment for a CV joint change. Ball joints unbolted or not on that end, they simply plug into a fixed hole. You do need to realign if you change the bushing side, an entire suspension arm or a track rod/tie rod ends, but none of those come up in a straight CV joint or rubber boot replace. If tires show unusual wear, you need to look separately for worn parts and bushings and then get it aligned--but for those kinds of reasons (or curbs/potholes, etc.), not CV boot related work.

For OP, if the Q5 makes a clicking noise when you turn hard and give it gas, the joint is gone internally. A good test is flip a u turn and accelerate some while in the turn. Obviously quiet street better, and no tunes, windows down, no A/C blower etc. If no clicking you caught it early enough and just need to replace the rubber boot. Realize the drive axle nut is under very high torque--takes either special shop torque multiplier equipment or very long pipe extensions (6' or so) and a stout breaker bar. I have broken tools doing it before. Once you remove that nut, under no circumstances put weight back on the wheel or it can permanently damage the wheel bearing.

Search for how to posts if you intend to do work yourself. Pretty standard fare for VW/Audi oriented mechanics. If joint not damaged, I always prefer to replace the boot instead of getting a "remanufactured" one where you have no idea about the history of it. Many "remanufactured" parts like this are little more than a cheap rubber change and a black spray paint job. Get a quality boot replacement if it is that approach. Typical known Euro player and likely OES to Audi is GKN/Lobro. The axle center bolt is stretch type and must be replaced after any removal.

JoeRJGR1

Agree with MB...I would also recommend as Dude says ECS tuning if the half shaft (axle) is bad. I tried to save some money and get a set from Napa one time. Complete junk...bought them from ECS and they were a solid product.