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A V-bottomed notch instead of a flat bottomed one. Since the factory pinch weld is sort of rounded at the edge, I'm not sure any of them really "fit".
I'll have to get ambitious and dig down to the jack I guess, to see whether it just straddles the pinch, or extends up both sides to lift against the body floor. (Unless someone knows that offhand?)
It just doesn't seem like putting 1100 pounds (dry weight) or maybe 1500 pounds (loaded) onto a pinch weld is a really stunning engineering concept. Granted, the jack won't slip off of it, but the phrase "do not fold on dotted line" comes to mind. These days...I've even heard professional tow drivers taking phone calls from co-workers with both parties trying to figure out how the hell they could get a hook or lift onto some particular make and model.
Keeps making me think of the Citroens with the notoriously unreliable central hydraulic pressure pot, which could literally extend a jack leg down from the chassis to lift any corner of the car as needed. Would have been a great idea, if they'd known how to stop hydraulic leaks.(G)
I used to service a 1948 London Taxi cab an Austin.It had 4 jacks integrated into the chassis problem solved.The Q5 jack is mediocre particularly if your working on an uneven surface, eg. side of the road.The 80=90's Japanese vehicles had a safe reliable jacking system.Don't know where they're at these days ?
Dunno about the luxury brands, but the sons of riceburners still have their wonderfully practical scissor jacks last I'd seen. Hopefully the door seams don't bend back and forth any more as you hoist the car.(G)
Personally I think the Q5 jack was the result of a mad bet after a long Oktoberfest drinking challenge: The loser had to design a jack that would only be HALF a jack, but still lift the car. Clever drunks in Ingolstadt!
A V-bottomed notch instead of a flat bottomed one. Since the factory pinch weld is sort of rounded at the edge, I'm not sure any of them really "fit".
I'll have to get ambitious and dig down to the jack I guess, to see whether it just straddles the pinch, or extends up both sides to lift against the body floor. (Unless someone knows that offhand?)
(G)
The pinch weld hangs down about 3/4" from the rail. The adapter that I have, and linked to, is near 1" thick, the pinch weld never bottoms out on the adapter. The adapter lifts the Q5 by the rails, straddles the pinch weld, never lifts using the pinch weld
What is nice about this adapter is that it sits down in the floor jack lifting arm hole, impossible to slide off, and allows the jack to walk properly when lifting without any chance of the adapter shifting. Plus it's made of good old "steel".
Last edited by Bob Petruska; 02-15-2018 at 02:20 PM.
A V-bottomed notch instead of a flat bottomed one. Since the factory pinch weld is sort of rounded at the edge, I'm not sure any of them really "fit".
I'll have to get ambitious and dig down to the jack I guess, to see whether it just straddles the pinch, or extends up both sides to lift against the body floor. (Unless someone knows that offhand?)
I had the same question when this topic came up here a few years ago. I got ambitious and did exactly that. Their so called “jack” only comes in contact with the rail in back of the pinch weld with the weight on. The front edge of the cradle is slightly lower than the back and doesn’t touch anything. Probably just there to prevent lateral movement? The pinch weld winds up in the “U” and also doesn’t touch anything. It would make more sense to me if the weight was carried on both sides of the pinch but the engineers surely know better. IMO the OEM jack is dangerous and has to be placed at exactly the right angle to avoid slipping out or damaging the rocker panel. I decided to make an adapter for my floor jack that copied their load design and would be a little safer and more stable. I was fortunate enough to have access to some scrap steel, a TIG welder and some spare time. It works fine but I still think the weight should be carried on both sides of the pinch. FWIW I have been to various dealers all over the country for service and every one of them lifted my vehicles right on the pinch welds. They all said it’s not a problem. Here are some pics of the OEM jack in place with weight on and my rather crude attempt at a floor jack adapter that would lift in the same spot. I think Bob's Ebay adapter looks like a much better way to go.
I had the same question when this topic came up here a few years ago. I got ambitious and did exactly that. Their so called “jack” only comes in contact with the rail in back of the pinch weld with the weight on. The front edge of the cradle is slightly lower than the back and doesn’t touch anything. Probably just there to prevent lateral movement? The pinch weld winds up in the “U” and also doesn’t touch anything. It would make more sense to me if the weight was carried on both sides of the pinch but the engineers surely know better. IMO the OEM jack is dangerous and has to be placed at exactly the right angle to avoid slipping out or damaging the rocker panel. I decided to make an adapter for my floor jack that copied their load design and would be a little safer and more stable. I was fortunate enough to have access to some scrap steel, a TIG welder and some spare time. It works fine but I still think the weight should be carried on both sides of the pinch. FWIW I have been to various dealers all over the country for service and every one of them lifted my vehicles right on the pinch welds. They all said it’s not a problem. Here are some pics of the OEM jack in place with weight on and my rather crude attempt at a floor jack adapter that would lift in the same spot. I think Bob's Ebay adapter looks like a much better way to go.
... Even the ECSTuning $40 set has comments that it doesn't fit all models, and judging from the dimensions they give, the "pucks" never reach the underside of the car, they ALL just straddle the pinch weld and leave that to spread the load.
This is OK for such a beefy weld? Any old "universal" slotted hockey puck will do?...(
Add me to the list of those who've had pucks shatter during use. In my case this led to a dented rocker panel, not to mention much swearing on my part. I won't ever use one again.
Yes even as a Canadian I wouldn't recommend a puck for this application.They're much better suited to seeking the back of the USA's net during the olympics.Sorry, couldn't help myself !
BTW, when I said "pucks" just to be clear, I didn't mean literally slicing up a hockey puck, but rather, the commercial made pads that just LOOK like hockey pucks. I suspect there is a difference between the two, besides regulation size and weight.(G)
My link to Advance Auto was for the complete jack. As I stated in my post, the pinch weld adapter fits this AA jack fine and also raises the Q5 to the appropriate height of about 20 inches to remove a tire without putting the jack on something to raise it up.
Bob, any chance you could post a picture of the steel adapter you referenced on eBay, About $15... it looks great, but I would like see how it straddles the weld... thanks.
02-15-2018, 12:00 PM
