soonerfan

Service Manager is always going to recommend OEM parts, no doubt. He knows who butters his bread! If you don't mind the dust and want the dealer to perform the install, go with the OEM's. If you want to buy a set yourself and install, I think many have had success with Centric semi-metallic pads with the sensors.

BarneyM

Replaced the OEM pads a few weeks ago in an attempt to solve the dust problem. I installed Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. Installation was fairly easy except for two things. The outside front pads were glued to the caliper. Not a big problem but it took some time to get them off and clean up the calipers. In the rear, if you have the electrically operated parking brake, you cannot retract the piston without removing the motor, screw the actuator in to back it off (8 mm star Allen wrench), and then you can retract the piston.

After installing the new pads I set them with the brake pedal, unscrewed the actuator in till it stopped (by hand) then screwed it back in 1/2 turn, then reinstalled the motor. Everything worked fine and the brake dust is gone.

The Hawk pads take a little more pedal pressure but I like this as the OEM pads were a little to 'touchy' for me. All in all, very happy.

soonerfan

GREAT post, BarneyM. That is what a forum is all about.........assisting others, and not belittling ignorance or attempting to be the trump card post.
I'd buy you a cold one if I could.

gat821

Still makes me curious though about why the German manufacturers use these pads. Maybe it's just me, but i'm having a hard time believing there aren't low dust pads that would meet whatever specs Audi is shooting for. No brake expert by any means, but maybe just a belief in engineering/technology.

But it's clear Audi, BMW, etc have chosen this particular type of pads.

The G Man

Low dust pads usually mean longer stopping distance, but the Audi brakes are pretty good, so most people dont notice much difference in every day driving when going to low dust pads.

mpraju

A human could probably quickly adapt to change but does this affect the Adaptive Cruise Control in anyway ?.

Reggie

Low dust pads do not mean longer stopping distance. OEM pads are chosen for use by Audi (car mfrs) for use by a wide variety of drivers and for a specific location - ie US drivers get different pads than European. Low dust pads can mean some differences in pedal feel, rotor wear, brake fade and brake activation and noise. One has to check reviews for the variables that occur. I do agree with you about the differences are minor in everyday drivng

Reggie

I know your post was aimed at me -but my bs post was aimed at the dealer not him. But yes a great post. Will be doing a write up with pics on pad and rotors replacements in the next few months. Will be needed as no Bentley manual for the Q5 yet.

soonerfan

Au contraire, Reggie. I knew you were talking about the Service Manager and his remark. You've been spot-on with your advice and remarks as far as I'm concerned, on almost every subject.
I'm an old Porsche driver (had 4) and auto crossed them all. This is my third Audi....auto crossed an A4 1,8TQM that was chipped and lowered back when I was still into it.

I was targeting another............

kleinbus

Brake pad lining itself doesn't affect warping, with rotors it affects to the amount of force that is required to generate the friction to slow down.
<O</O
Ceramic pads with drilled/slotted rotors used on race cars are not same as ceramic pads with normal rotors as ceramic pads generate more heat and normal rotors are unable to dissipate such heat when those are not drilled and slotted. True race ceramic pads advantage is the friction they offer but those are pretty touchy, press like normal brakes and wheels are locked way before you even step on it like with normal brakes....<O</O

Warping is caused by uneven thermal expansion and I have screwed 18-wheeler drums and disc's and normal passenger cars rotors enough and I have also machined them back to shape (unless warped beyond the machining tolerance).<O</O

Easiest way to warp drum (to make it oval) and rotors (to make it wobble) is to have aggressive braking from high speed to complete stop so the pad and rotor will get extremely hot, then stay still so the surface under the pads surface stays hot while rest of the rotor cools down creating uneven shrinkage when thermally expanded rotor shrinks down to original dimension.<O</O

That is why after aggressive braking I never stand still, instead creep vehicle feet or two forward to keep drums and rotors rotating and ever since I begun to do that I haven’t had any issues was it 120 000 lbs double trailer semi or 911 on race track….<O</O

Roughly saying, the dust is same as zinc on back of the boat, zinc anode is the one that wears out to protect the propeller, same way the OEM brake pads wear out instead wearing out the rotors and OEM pads are softer because they have to provide the best friction in all possible conditions no matter is the pad wet or dry or icy or whatever.<O</O

I lived in LA and commuted to down town LA (S Figueroa and 8th) and if someone on stop and go traffic is having dust issues maybe you people need to learn to drive your cars as all I saw was "step on gas - step on brakes" Is it really that hard to roll smoothly?
What is the point of that race? So you can step on the brakes and wait?<O</O

If E-brake works same way as on other Audi’s then it can be retracted with vag-com.<O</O