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@#!?
Jeez, putting the "DANGER" sticker over the BEM code?!
Come on, Bob. We can take the B17 down to Texas this weekend and demonstrate "Customer Appreciation" to JCI. I'll have you back for late dinner Sunday night, I promise.
So now I've got more incentive to go access the battery, to peel back the sticker when I hook up the vent tube...Nah, it can wait until after Texas.(G)
@#!?
Jeez, putting the "DANGER" sticker over the BEM code?!
Come on, Bob. We can take the B17 down to Texas this weekend and demonstrate "Customer Appreciation" to JCI. I'll have you back for late dinner Sunday night, I promise.
So now I've got more incentive to go access the battery, to peel back the sticker when I hook up the vent tube...Nah, it can wait until after Texas.(G)
I think the world is forgetting about the BEM code, new VW/Audi's don't use it...........
Well, the BEM code on the Autocraft H9 didn't work. I carefully entered it several times, making sure there were 26 characters + spaces, and clicked on "test". The old code appeared every time.
The code on the sticker is 7P0915105D JCB 471018I3RO. The part # looked similar to many Audi OEMs with an xxx 915 105 xx format, so I entered 000915105CF JCB 471018I3RO and that worked. 000915105CF is an Audi AGM with 105 Ah, same as the Autocraft H9.
Afterwards, I found this while scrolling through the 19-CAN Measuring Blocks:
The old battery was rated at 110 Ah. Unfortunately, I never checked Group 11 when the old battery was in the car, so I don't know if it read 110 Ah before the swap.
Well, the BEM code on the Autocraft H9 didn't work. I carefully entered it several times, making sure there were 26 characters + spaces, and clicked on "test". The old code appeared every time.
The code on the sticker is 7P0915105D JCB 471018I3RO. The part # looked similar to many Audi OEMs with an xxx 915 105 xx format, so I entered 000915105CF JCB 471018I3RO and that worked. 000915105CF is an Audi AGM with 105 Ah, same as the Autocraft H9.
Afterwards, I found this while scrolling through the 19-CAN Measuring Blocks:
The old battery was rated at 110 Ah. Unfortunately, I never checked Group 11 when the old battery was in the car, so I don't know if it read 110 Ah before the swap.
Your BEM code could still work as there have been reports that the JCB part numbers have wrong "0" and "O" interchanged, so trying all combinations might allow it to work.
Bottom line you are fine with the new battery, you could have just changed the last digit on the old code and still be fine.
Remember it doesn't look like the BEM code means much intelligence to the BMS system, except to calculate, from the Ah capacity rating, how much total energy has gone in and out of the battery and somewhere in later life may throw a warning that it is time to look at changing the battery. Recoding also tells the BMS that a new battery is installed, resets the energy counters which is the most important, so that it doesn't think that the old battery is still there.
All the zeros in the code had a line through them indicating digit rather than letter. First thing I tried was changing that final 'O' to a '0' but no joy. As you say, any new code that's accepted by the BMS will do the job. I think I'll leave well enough alone.
I'm curious as to why your new battery shows 96% state of charge (SOC) while mine is only at 82%. I fully charged the H9 with my CTEK before installing and took the reading right after plugging in my Vagcom.
I gotta say though that my new Autocraft AGM is a real workhorse. I fooled around with the coding for a good 45 minutes (ignition and accessories on, lights off) and it never badgered me to start the engine for a quick charge. The old battery would have shut everything down after about 20 minutes.
All the zeros in the code had a line through them indicating digit rather than letter. First thing I tried was changing that final 'O' to a '0' but no joy. As you say, any new code that's accepted by the BMS will do the job. I think I'll leave well enough alone. The coding error posts stated that the BEM code "0" and "O" are correctly printed on the JCB label to indicate digital or letter, it was that "some"of them should be the other for the code to be accepted.. IOW, you would need to do all the combinations, not worth it.
I'm curious as to why your new battery shows 96% state of charge (SOC) while mine is only at 82%. I fully charged the H9 with my CTEK before installing and took the reading right after plugging in my Vagcom.
I gotta say though that my new Autocraft AGM is a real workhorse. I fooled around with the coding for a good 45 minutes (ignition and accessories on, lights off) and it never badgered me to start the engine for a quick charge. The old battery would have shut everything down after about 20 minutes.
Did you start the engine, turn it off, before you read the VCDS readings?
I charged my battery off the car first, sat 16 hours after charging, installed it, and then played with VCDS with all 4 doors open dome lights on (for some air), radio playing, etc. for a fairly long time before I copied those 92% SOC VCDS readings
I really wouldn't worry about what the readings are. Run it for a while and use VCDS again.
Look what my readings are, VCDS states that my Battery State as shown in the MMI is 100%, when I looked at the MMI it only showed 90%.
I made a 60 mile interstate trip yesterday and it still only shows 90% in the MMI.
There's a new battery installed, it works, I'm going to forget about it until there is an issue.
08-17-2018, 11:22 AM
